Oil Change Simple Question

[Rich Goold]

Hello all,
I just got an oil sump plate fastener kit for my 356C which includes studs, flat washers, wavy washers and nuts. The flat washers appear to be stainless steel.
I know that VWs use copper flat washers and 911s use aluminum flat washers for the sump plate.
It would seem to me that copper might be the best material for preventing oil leaks since it may crush a little.
Am I correct or just overthinking?

[Ken Tuvman]

Hi Rich - I believe mine has flat and wave washers and it does not drip oil. I did retighten after a few trips. I believe I bought new wave washers at True Value or Ace

This is the kit I purchased online:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/312493769302?m ... media=COPY

[Dave Erickson]

Ken, I always use copper washers, for the reason you stated.
There were a lot of improvements that VW came up with over the years that Porsche did not adopt, but should have.

Dave

[Rich Goold]

Thanks Dave ! You would think that Porsche would be more advanced than VW but maybe not...
I will go ahead and get some copper washers

[Martin Benade]

Copper washers is not a bad idea but shouldn’t be necessary it the gasket is really sealing.

[Vic Skirmants]

Copper washers is not a bad idea but shouldn’t be necessary it the gasket is really sealing.

Agreed. The copper washers are a pain to remove and can't be re-used.

[Al Zim]

Rich, send me your cell phone number. 817-267-4451 MOST IMPORTANT IS THAT THE NUTS SHOULD BE TIGHTENED DOWN TO NO MORE THAN (8 FOOT POUNDS) AND THE SUMP PLATE SHOULD BE FLAT. ZIMZ will be glad to assist you with your 356 questions. Zim

[Jay Darlington]

i use these, seam to work good with a nylon lock nut.https://www.amazon.com/150Pcs-Metal-Bon ... vadid=5332
Jay D.

[Al Zim]

Jay I would like to show you something that will help you that we are currently finishing the design on. That is why I asked for the phone number.
You just need a plain 6mm flat washer and a nut that has not been distorted for the hardware. Do not order these from us you can purchase them locally.
Gently straighten the sump plate as best as you can. If the aluminum part of the screen is badly distorted you can elect to leave it out or purchase a new one. The screen's activities are questionable since it will not stop aluminum particles or dirt (probably iron also) TORQUE TO NO MORE THAN 8 FOOT POUNDS. That is not very much torque. A very short 10 mm wrench or extra small 1/4 inch drive ratchet will be more than plenty. Practice before you start. Zim

[Wes Bender]

If you want to eliminate the plate distortion altogether, look into the thicker aluminum sump plates. I put one on (from Mainly before Precision Matters bought them out) and I've been leak free ever since. If you choose to stay with the stock plate, do as Al suggests. I limit torque on the nuts by holding the 1/4" ratchet in my palm and twisting it rather than pulling on the handle.

[Jim Liberty]

There are rubber gaskets out there. You can reuse the. No leaks with them. .............Jim.

[Martin Benade]

Jay those washers are pretty nice.
I used to tell my techs when tightening things like a sump plate that two hands gripping a 14” long 3/8” extension would be nearly tight enough. Of course five minutes later they’d be using a 3/8 rechargeable impact in short bursts. And only somewhat overtightening it.

[Dave Erickson]

There are rubber gaskets out there. You can reuse the. No leaks with them. .............Jim.

Jim, who sells them?

[Harlan Halsey]

You are over thinking it. The original 6mm studs are a very tight fit in the case. Once you take them out and replace them with longer studs you have a loose fit. Now sometimes the new stud comes out rather than the nut coming off. Better is to flatten the original sump plate as Paul Christensen described using a ball bearing and a small press. The original setup with screen and gaskets doesn't leak.

[Jim Liberty]

The young man that took the helm of the Registry when I was still on the board. I cannot remember his name. ...............Jim.