Sticking Door Latch

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Mike Wilson
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#16 Post by Mike Wilson »

Hi, Wayne: were any of the parts recently chromed? Sometimes that messes up the fit. Are all the parts original or is the receiver a repro? I've seen that the repro parts sometimes don't fit well. I would run a file in the groove of the receiver. It does look like it has a couple of rough edges as does the tab on the handle. Do the handle and tumbler have the seals? When reassembling, I make sure the locking plate slides easily in the slot and I lube the tumbler. The locking tab has to be correctly oriented so the keyway is also oriented correctly and the door will lock.

Mike
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'63 B coupe

Richard Colella
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#17 Post by Richard Colella »

Wayne, sounds like the inner seal (assuming it’s an original handle), which I don’t think you’ve identified yet. Look at photo 5 in post 8 above. It’s hard to see. Use a good light and look inside the handle, maybe drag a pick lightly along the surface to find where it catches. At one time in the distant past it was rubber, now more like a hard plastic. I had a heck of a time getting the old ones out since they’d lost all flex.

Hugo Karasawa
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#18 Post by Hugo Karasawa »

First check what parts are dragging.
This one you can see where it was rubbing.
door handle 2.jpg
Check the ridges if those are straight or if they have dirt, like you say it is a tight fit.
If there is an interference slightly file the ridges or this part with a fine jewelers file, do not use a Dremel.
door handle 1 .jpg
And when assembling the tumbler, like Mike said, the locking tab must be correctly oriented. There is a technical article from Brad Ripley where he explains how to assemble the tumbler and tab. He says " The locking slider can be installed four ways; only two ways are correct. " .

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Wayne Arny
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#19 Post by Wayne Arny »

First, pardons for the extra pic of the fuel hose, and the repeat of the text portion of the last post. I was doing it on the iPhone, and I obviously need practice at it!! And Thank You, Mike, Richard, Hugo, & Jim for sticking with me on this!

Second, as to the comments above as to rechroming and/or repros, I don't know. I bought the car a couple of years ago from Adam, and I know little about the recent history. I know, from the Kardex, that it had at least two owners in Germany. I know nothing about its USA history. I do suspect the handle is a repro. It's just too nice. But, is there a way to tell?

Third, as to the inner seal, there is clearly a groove for the seal, as you can see in the pic below, but there was nothing in it, either rubber or plastic. I did check the Stoddard site mentioned above for a replacement seal, but they include three types! There's a white plastic one, then a rubber -- I think -- one for reproduction handles, and then a seemingly identical rubber one for original handles. Which one should I order, and what is the difference between the seal for a reproduction handle and one for an original handle?

Fourth, I do agree with all of you that the metal to metal fit seems to be a bit too tight, and I will now attack it, gently, with my jewelers files to see if that fixes it!

Thanks again for all the help! I'm encouraged!

Wayne
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Richard Colella
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#20 Post by Richard Colella »

So clearly not the inner seal :D Can you determine if there are any witness marks from rubbing? Also, a dremel with a small wire wheel might be enough to clean up the parts to where they'll work together. Just a thought.

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Mike Wilson
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#21 Post by Mike Wilson »

If the door handles are original, they will be stamped Kxxx. If so, then order the original black seals. I have not seen the white ones. Also check the seal for the tumbler. They, too, get brittle and crack. Holler if you need more pics.

Mike
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Mike Wilson
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Wayne Arny
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#22 Post by Wayne Arny »

Mike, No Kxxx numbers anywhere on the handle. Then a Repro. Below is more descriptive of what I mentioned re seals. The white one stands alone, and then there are two black ones. The black ones are only 1 par number apart; NLA-531-607-01 for the Repro, and ...-00 for the one for the original. The white one looks completely different, in that it has two little "projections/stud-like things" sticking up from the seal itself 180 degrees from each other. I'll call Stoddard and see what they say.

Thanks!

Wayne
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Mike Wilson
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#23 Post by Mike Wilson »

The white one on the left is for the tumbler. The tip of it fits in the slot on the tumbler. If there are no K numbers stamped on the handle, then order the seal for the repro handle.
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#24 Post by Wayne Arny »

Thanks!!

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Mike Wilson
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#25 Post by Mike Wilson »

Glad to be of help, Wayne. By the way, insert the key in the tumbler when installing the seal. If not, the pins interfere with sliding on the seal.

Mike
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#26 Post by Wayne Arny »

The things you don’t see when you don’t know to look for them!! Thanks, again!
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#27 Post by Mike Wilson »

Heck ya! Glad I can help.

Mike
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Wayne Arny
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#28 Post by Wayne Arny »

Mike and Everyone. Update! After spending time carefully and in stages filing away at the ridges inside the handle, the Lock Button assembly now moves smoothly in and out without sticking! See pics below. New seals and the rubber washer arrive today. I'll reassemble and report on the outcome! Thank you everyone for all your help!!

Best regards,

Wayne
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Wayne Arny
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#29 Post by Wayne Arny »

Did the pics not download automatically? They don't show up for me?

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Wayne Arny
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Re: Sticking Door Latch

#30 Post by Wayne Arny »

Just in case, I'll try again.
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IMG_9169.pdf
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IMG_9171.pdf
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IMG_9173.pdf
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IMG_9174.pdf
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IMG_9175.pdf
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