Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Ah, the trouble of welding such big lengths..you are doing more than great!
Thanks for sharing!
Antoine
Thanks for sharing!
Antoine
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Thanks Antione. Yes, long and nearly flat unsupported weld joints can really wreak havoc. This is why I made sure to leave myself as much access to the back as I could until the welding was completed.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
All the new pieces beginning to work together.
All stitched up. Skin welding completed.
A lot of waves and rollers to iron out but not a horrible start.
Many rounds of heat shrinking were next.
Again the real luxury was having easy and clear access to the backside.
Some waves remain but no deeper than the thickness of this ruler.
Chased it about as far as I can with the skin hanging loose.
It will certainly change a little once its finally clamped to the bottom so I wait and make any further needed adjustments to the skin's surface once its all built. I won't have the access but hopefully I won't have to correct too much.
Bottom gap is wide but it will close back once the bottom is installed and pushes the edge of the new skin back out where it belongs. Installing the new bottom flange and floor next.Thanks for looking!
Justin
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Justin, going back to the photo that showed "all the waves and rollers", then the photo "many rounds of heat shrinking were next", can you give a bit more description of how you fixed the waves and rollers? Did you use a torch for the heat shrinking, or a tig welder? Did you use a wet rag to do the shrinking, or a hammer and dolly, or both? Did you heat shrink the same spot multiple times, or always a different spot? As you can tell from my questions, I need to do some heat shrinking and have never done it. I'm also considering using a disc, so did you use a disc at all here, and if not, why?
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Hi Dave, While I had clear access to the back side of the panel I used torch heat with my shrinking hammer and a dolly on the obvious high spots first. With each round the panel is hopefully leveling out better and better. Once its relatively uniform you really have to get your bearings and read the surface your working on in relation to the rest of the panel as a whole. Is this spot really high or are the adjacent surfaces just low in relation to that particular area? And vise versa. Its of no use if the surface is worked flat and level but its general contour is too low in the end. You'd be filling it either way.
Installing inner wall flange. Starting with the center section then building outward. Setting it in here almost blind was a lot trickier than on the left side where I had open access with the door skin out of the way. It took a series of trials and errors before I had it so the first few holes where a bust. I was able to sneak in a quick tack to hold its position so I could remove the bottom for final trimming and welding. All Stitched in. Once the center was secured the lateral edges went right into shape with a little heat. Retested with the bottom after welding and it of course shifted a bit but still within tolerance. It will be at least a clean look down into this pocket when its all finished. Lateral sections next. These next pieces would be much easier to set and locate with the center section there to build out from.
That next...
Thanks for stopping by.
Justin
I don't use a wet rag anymore when I heat shrink. My Buddy Jason Bobruk introduced me to this shrinking hammer by Peddinghaus. The head has a spring mechanism in it that twists slightly and gathers the excess metal when it strikes the surface. I'd seen this hammer in the late 80's in my Eastwood catalog and always assumed it was just a gimmick but it really works beautifully and is my go to hammer for heat shrinking.
These door repairs were completed a couple of years back and as you can see I still have several irregularities to address along this weld joint but I won't go near this panel with Torch heat again. I Can't risk the surface going berserk with no clear access to get at it from the backside now. I'll take any high spots the rest of the way in with my shrinking disc. The trade-off is that it works very slowly and can really try your patience but the heat is very localized and controllable. At this point I decided I had chased it about as far as I could for the moment. It now needs to be mounted back on the car so the general surface and contour can be work matched to carry on the contour and bodyline of the rest of the car. But, I can't do that until rocker is reinstalled and the rust repairs to the back edges of the front fenders are complete etc, etc. No real trick or shortcuts to this stuff its all a matter of how far you want to chase it and you'll be on the learning curve all at the same time. BTW: Did I mention "oil canning"? Another challenge to frustrate you during this process. Many good times ahead for you. JustinInstalling inner wall flange. Starting with the center section then building outward. Setting it in here almost blind was a lot trickier than on the left side where I had open access with the door skin out of the way. It took a series of trials and errors before I had it so the first few holes where a bust. I was able to sneak in a quick tack to hold its position so I could remove the bottom for final trimming and welding. All Stitched in. Once the center was secured the lateral edges went right into shape with a little heat. Retested with the bottom after welding and it of course shifted a bit but still within tolerance. It will be at least a clean look down into this pocket when its all finished. Lateral sections next. These next pieces would be much easier to set and locate with the center section there to build out from.
That next...
Thanks for stopping by.
Justin
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Justin, thank you for the lesson on shrinking. I had no idea that a shrinking hammer with a spiral retraction even existed…. So one more question. Will this door require the shrinking disc to finish up, when the skin has been folded?
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
I don't know about a lesson but its my plan of attack as it goes but I'm sure I'll have to make adjustments and changes as its worked in with the side of the car. Yes, the plan is to get the remaining irregularities out with a shrinking disc.
Final flange installation: Rear portion tacked in first. Relaxed the flange a touch so it sat flush against the bottom then started adding set screws. Froward section next with access hole punched. With the new flange snug against the bottom I added more screws to draw everything tighter still they also represent where the eventual plug welds will be. Had to finish stitching them in. The last of the long seam welds on this repair though. New flange all stitched and dressed. Getting the bottom ready for final installation by tying up some loose ends like welding shut these incorrect prepunched holes. And also adding in the twin drains up by the outer flange. A little more trimming yet to do but at this point it was now dangerously close to finally going together for good.
The door is now fully built. I couldn't chase down the remaining flaws with the bottom edge of the skin hanging loose. It all has to be set and integral before I dare chase that last 10% out. If I tried before hand it would just change on me as the skin crimping progressed.Final flange installation: Rear portion tacked in first. Relaxed the flange a touch so it sat flush against the bottom then started adding set screws. Froward section next with access hole punched. With the new flange snug against the bottom I added more screws to draw everything tighter still they also represent where the eventual plug welds will be. Had to finish stitching them in. The last of the long seam welds on this repair though. New flange all stitched and dressed. Getting the bottom ready for final installation by tying up some loose ends like welding shut these incorrect prepunched holes. And also adding in the twin drains up by the outer flange. A little more trimming yet to do but at this point it was now dangerously close to finally going together for good.
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Finishing up right door reassembly:
After some careful checking to make sure I was actually ready to close this up for good I began plug welding this inner flange.
Bottom flange row would be welded next. Then it was onto closing up this forward corner.
Angle cut and overlapped as Originally done.
Gas welded the corner with replicated overlapped edge detail.
Spot weld detail next and will complete the cosmetics.
Tested back on the car to make sure the bottom hinge hasn't shifted from all the heat. Rear overlap flange just welded in.
Dressing it next along with more welding to come. Getting this door closed up made for a great session.
Then onto finishing out spot weld detail then onto welding up the rear corner.
Seam welded the edges but before I committed the door frame was installed again to make the it seated fully while bolted to this new bottom.
Dressed then a little torch heat to finish all the edges. All done back here. Crimping the flange tight as I move to the front.-
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Rust repair duties on both doors now complete.
Floor grafts were stitched up and the leading edge was gas welded as originally.
I can now lay a new flange section for the door stop housing over top.
Flange installed with gas weld details.
The door was test fitted to the car again and much to my great relief after all the welding and all the heat that comes with it that lower hinge did not move out of alignment on me. The pins slid right in just like they had before I began cutting. I Thank god for small miracles.
One last hole to fill to complete my welding on these guys.
New section in and gas welded edges as before; Done!
Door rust repairs completed.
Remains of all that was replaced. At first glance not a lot there, how hard can it be?
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Thanks for looking.
Justin
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Familiarizing myself with sunroof parts.
Original headliner frame.
After really looking at it I think its in savable condition with the rot localized to the front cross member.
Rusted out on the both sides but only this runner.
A new reproduction was supplied and it seems like a nice one.
Cup details are very close.
Lip profile varies a little but probably makes no difference once the liner material is glued over top.
Repro corners at the rear are far simpler than the OG shape and lack that reinforcement but again, matters little after material and install but I wanted to show what the original looked like.
OG closing panel is nice with no rust issues.
# stamped to this car.
All hardware that was sent: original tracks, release mechanism, screws and spacer shims.-
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
protruding past the frame.
More later...
Thanks for looking.
Justin
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Mounting hole repair and the rest of the hardware finally found.
Eventually found the baggy with the rest of the crucial mounting hardware for this unit. A little scary before this turned up.
Getting back to the clamping force needed to draw this end down tight.
It became clear that this particular holes integrity is by far the most important of the whole bunch. This did still hold the threads but as you can see its pitted and thin around the edge so I had to repair it.
Welded over for a fresh start.
Re-drilled and run through. You can see that the weld provides a bit more of a shoulder so the screw has a lot more to hang onto than before. No worries about this one tearing out now.
Third hole same condition so it was welded next. Before it was over I decided to do all four that secure this side.
last two welded and ready to be re-drilled. As I played with it I realized that it wasn't necessary to do the 4th hole as it sits in an about the fulcrum so it really doesn't do a whole lot.
Reinstalled the corner section to make sure it all still fit...it did. The holes for these corners and the cross strip will be fine since there is no stress on them like the lateral track sections. Right side done, repeat on the left side.
Same deal, critical mount hole is weak and rusty.
Third hole also thin.-
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Sun roof slider prep.
Now that I have my head around how it all goes together and works I needed to get the hardware prepped for an accurate adjusted lid fitment against the body. Began with a closer inspection of the footings. A felt liner shores up the contact with the rail but all these where bent open and slightly twisted. I would never be able to get a final adjusted fit with all this slop at the point of contact. BTW: these seem to be painted the same shade of grey that I had mixed up to match the steering column and wheel in my coupe.
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Thanks for looking.
Justin
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Re: Late 1959 S/R coupe project # 108625
Nice work. Too many projects overlook fitting everything while the car is still in metal or primer. So much better to make "discoveries" when you don't have fresh paint to deal with. Sunroofs add a layer of complexity I am all too familiar with, but worth it when they are dialed in.