DIY - making it easier hacks

[Randy Mittelstet]

I guess that getting a little or a lot older, I look for ways to make DIY projects more enjoyable & less painful.
Here are two examples of things I used to do the painful way and discovered a better way.
The underdash work is a major one for me on the few times I need to do it. So I finally asked myself.... why am I going thru all this PITA.
Now when I get frustrated under there, I just take a short nap.

The liquid transfer pump, as Harbor Freight calls it, was a discovery I made recently from Family Handyman magazine. So now when I replace
my gasoline with fresh after storage or ethanol free before winter storage, this sure beats the hand siphoning hassle. It runs on 2 D-cell batteries. Buy the cheap
warranty on it and replace it for free every year as the sales clerk will tell you.

Maybe I am the last one to figure out these things, but if this saves just one cracked vertebrae, then it's worth it.
So if anyone else out there has some other ideas to donate, please do. Maybe someone like me could use the inspiration.

[David Jones]

Randy, how about never replace the gas. I have never used any form of gas additive in any of my cars or agricultural equipment and never had a problem starting after winter storage. Modern gasoline properly stored should not degrade over a 6 month period. My water cooled Kawasaki twin in my lawnmower gets put away with a close to empty tank in October and then in late March I open up the old trailer I store it in and put in a few gallons of gas, turn on the ignition and let the fuel pump run and it fires up and runs just fine on regular gas which is what you should be using in CO. My 356's do get used through the winter if the weather is conducive so not so much of a problem.

[Martin Benade]

Great ideas for under dash work. Also if you plan more than just a short nap under there, removing at least one of the seats makes it much more comfortable and roomy.

[Ron LaDow]

Randy, welcome. Two drink minimum, but worth it.
David, while I also make do with 'old' gas, Randy is to be applauded for offering old farts like me a way to deal with those 'upside-down-under-the-dash' issues.
(but I have to ask: Kawasaki offers a twin-cylinder grass mower?!)

[Jim Liberty]

The only reason I work on Pre - A cars is that I remove the dash first. You can make a bed under there. .....Jim.

[Don Gale]

One of my 1st hacks for removing Zenith carbs when I bought my oxy-acetylene torch in 1975

12mm_stubbie.jpg (230.22 KiB) Viewed 1183 times

[Jay Darlington]

Randy, how about never replace the gas. I have never used any form of gas additive in any of my cars or agricultural equipment and never had a problem starting after winter storage. Modern gasoline properly stored should not degrade over a 6 month period. My water cooled Kawasaki twin in my lawnmower gets put away with a close to empty tank in October and then in late March I open up the old trailer I store it in and put in a few gallons of gas, turn on the ignition and let the fuel pump run and it fires up and runs just fine on regular gas which is what you should be using in CO. My 356's do get used through the winter if the weather is conducive so not so much of a problem.

My boy bought a Ford f 150 about a 2008 with only 3000 miles his buddy wreck it in the front and the bank totaled it, HE HAD NO insurance. it sat in his yard for 10 years until he payed it off so the bank would release the title. my boy gets it ready to start and i say did you change the gas in the tank, his reply NO its ok! so i'm standing there and it has no sheet metal on the front, he hits the starter. remember it hasn't been run in ten years. anyway that motor makes about 1/2 a turn and starts and runs perfect idles perfect i couldn't believe it i told him to call Ford it would make a good commercial.
Jay D.

[gregg hake]

Back when I first got my car and had trouble getting that bolt that mounts the starter AND engine to the transaxle loosened and tightened, I wrapped some Duck Tape around the shaft so the bolt goes into the hole with friction. To this day, I now can tighten and untighten it without hiring a gymnast to secure the starter-side bolt head.
If that ever stops working, I will use the worm gear pipe clamp-around- the-head trick that someone suggested years back (D jones?)

[Randy Mittelstet]

Thanks for the new hacks and stories!

Great tip Gregg. I knew there had to be one hack out there using the tape.
Jay, only a Ford could do that.
Hey Don, I had a 3-iron that looked like that.

The reason I now replace my gas before winter is primarily to remove the corn gas in order to keep it from eating my rubber (at least during the winter hibernation)
I don't just drain it since I like to drive it a couple times during the winter.
I would run non-ethanol gas all the time except that here in Colorado, I have to drive clear across town to get it. All of our gas including regular is corn fed. In fact, premium
is the only grade available here that comes with a non-ethanol option.

Now I need to go lube my clutch cable etc around the pedal cluster. (it's been at least 40 years now) Thanks to John Jenkins for the article in our RM356 Club magazine "Oversteer"

[Don Gale]

+1 on not letting it sit very long with "corn gas". My Alfa Spider rotted out the rubber seals in the non-serviceable electric fuel pump in less than 6 months. Corn is best aged 10 years or longer in charred new oak casks. I have a 5th of Pappy van Winkel waiting for me when the 356A is painted and back on the road. :=)

[Randy Mittelstet]

here are a couple to pass on and pass the time as well.

The tape covering the tip of the spear needs no explanation for us unfortunate few that have caught it on your pants pocket. It happened to me on the front spear walking between cars. Lightning never strikes twice etc......well the encore happened a few years later on the rear spear when I caught it getting out of the tub. So now when working around the car, I try to remember this first thing. I recycled all my cargo shorts.
I got fairly skilled at repairing the bend. After removing the spear, I positioned the bent area on my son's batting helmet to slowly work out the bend.

The other pic is a piece of PVC pipe through which I ran my battery maintainer to the outlet. It keeps my shoes from catching on an invisible black wire when walking between car and cabinets. It's cheaper than getting a bigger garage.
Also looks and lasts longer than duct tape and can be moved aside when necessary.
This is also handy to contain multiple tv cables running up the garage walls and corners for a neater look.

[Doug McDonnell]

Starter/engine bolt when alone. I swear it always tries to go back while putting on washer and starting the nut. So just stuff a rag in that hard to get at space to hold bolt in place when doing the job alone. But don't forget to remove the rag when done. Ron I may have the same mower as David with a Kawasaki twin motor: https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/riding-l ... gJKbfD_BwE Check out the ZT1 50"

[Jason Laster]

I'm not sure how many of you use drive up ramps for easier access under the car, but I do for certain jobs. I found that by putting some painters tape on the garage floor at the appropriate places I can always set those ramps in the correct place and no need to do the ole 'drive close then set the ramps'. Pretty minor, but does save me the step of getting out/in the car again.

[Randy Mittelstet]

what make of ramps do you use for the rear tires?

I need a lower profile ramp than the auto parts stores sell. I have limited space at the back tires because of the tail pipe location.
The only low profile ones that I've found online are the expensive racing ones.
I've seen the ramps that people build out of 2x4s but would like something ready made if possible.
Thanks for any suggestions.

[Mike Wilson]

Randy: check out Northern Tool for "ramp kits. You can make your own using 2 x 10's or 12''s. They have other ramps as well that might work for you,

Mike