Bob’s 356A project

[robert moglia]

Antoine, I started out with it in 1 piece, but when I started hammering over the edge it became distorted.
By cutting it into 2, and making relief cuts in the flange, I got the upper fender curve nice and the vertical section was then placed to obtain the correct gap.
Curiously, I don’t mind the grinding, with a blast of air it actually works almost like a shrinking disc and seems to correct about 80% of the heat warp!

[robert moglia]

Left headlight bucket repair
Bucket had rust thru on top and the support strut was mangled and rotten

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Fixing the bucket was easy I’m too cheap to buy a replacement

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The fender repair was a bit more work but I had previous experience with the 911. The edge and weld flange was formed on a stretcher and welded in there were 2 areas in need of attention.

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[robert moglia]

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The fender support was junk, out it goes!

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The bumper support was also quite rusty but only in the middle.

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And now the bucket can be spot welded back in.

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Fitting the fender support was a bit fussy lots of trial and error to fit. The hardest part was patching the battery box side. The original panel had a dimple where the electrical conduit penetrates. I duplicated this with a step drill bit and hammer.

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[robert moglia]

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Finished product.

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Next up: fitting the left door.

[Puygranier Antoine]

As usual, really great metal work

Antoine

[robert moglia]

Antoine, thanks for the encouragement!
I was planning on patching the outer closing panel but it was too rotten at the top

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I had originally patched the inner closing panel as it was solid at the top.
The outer closing panel came out easily (probably because of the rot!)

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That’s a view I hope you’ll never see!
Here’s a view of the rot, I wanted to replace this because it does define the upper fender edge.

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I fabricated the deeper support pieces, including the support for the rubber tubing “seal”.

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Old metal trimmed and new metal grafted in.

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Even though it’s more complicated the second side is always quicker.

[robert moglia]

A fun diversion akin to rearranging deck chairs on the titanic given my car’s condition.
Horn and headlight relays tested good but sad condition.

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Mount of horn relay required welded repair then bead blasted and painted.

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Correct stamping ala “Restostrips” article

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Fender sill repair progressing well after minor setback of malpositioned jack spur. It didn’t clear the sill!
Anything worth doing is best done twice

[robert moglia]

The outer closing panel is in.
I will say in retrospect panel replacement is a lot easier than panel repair, and a heck of a lot less grinding!

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In anticipation of rocker installation I have a question as to where the brace pictured below is attached.
It seems it wants to go straight to the outer longitudinal but I recall seeing somewhere it was attached to the underside of the sill.

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I can’t find a clear picture of it’s location
Can anyone verify correct positioning?

[Justin Rio]

Hi Robert, Really nice job restoring those relay covers. How did you replicate the ink markings?

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Sorry to hear about that jack spur redo. That's the rule I learned the hard way many years ago. Weather your building a body from nothing or a partial repair everything revolves around a set and adjusted closing panel in its final position. Hinged, latched if possible with the pre-load of rubber seal (Again if possible) to confirm your final position even further. You'll see, Once you begin adding seals and interior wrap thickness etc. its going to change things slightly and mess with you so if you can replicate the conditions of what will eventually be the less hassle your going to have.

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Working outward from your closing panel, establish your 3mm gap with your rocker first

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Then your safe to dial in your jack spur height. That bracket you asked about is visible here and attaches to the underside of the threshold panel. Some come welded like the example above but I drill them free and temporarily position them with a screw. Its one of the last items I'll commit to welding as its nice to have the ability to adjust the rockers attitude off the flow and contour of the door to reduce the need for filler and god forbid more correction cutting towards the end of the metal work phase.

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Since you're redoing your spurs It seemed like that they were a little too rearward in position. I don't know if you'll ever really use them again but if you do it feels like the front end will dump forward before you get the side of the car off the ground. The position your looking for is 415mm from the rear lower bolt of the spring plate mount.

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This comes directly from the factory manual.
Hope this helps, take it for what its worth to you at this point.
Keep up the great progress.

Justin

[robert moglia]

Thanks Justin.
Re relay restoration: I had rubber stamps made at “thestampmaker.com” I can lend them to you if you wish.
Re jack spur position: I followed Ron Roland direction in “Restored by Hand” where he specifies 8 inches from door opening for pre A and A, 11 inches for B and C. I wonder why the difference?
Re bracket: thanks for the advice.
I enjoy following your build too, I can only wish for skills like yours especially TIG!

[Justin Rio]

That's very nice of you Bob and thank you; I'll keep that in my mental rolodex. Thanks also for the nice words but like yourself, I'm just a guy in his mancave with a wire welder too. I've just done it wrong so many times that I'm happy to share the potential pitfalls I've fallen into more than once. Keep plugging away on it!
Justin

[Vic Skirmants]

Don't get Ron started on the "pre-A" designation. That's his pet peeve. Of course it does help 99.9% of people understand what you're talking about.

[robert moglia]

Oops I misspoke:
Pre A and early A to 57 - 11” from door edge.
58+A, B and C - 8” from door edge
I’ll never use the spur regardless!

[robert moglia]

I will say “Restored by Hand” has been an invaluable resource guiding my way through this adventure.
From Ron Roland

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[robert moglia]

Drivers B post repair. This was a challenge as it is the joining of 6 separate panels and is essential to proper door fitting.

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I made a vertical relief cut to set the gap as it was a bit tight. Once happy with the gap and door clearance to the B post I cut the latch panel out due to severe backside rust and holes at the top and latch area.

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Now with some elbow room time to patch the inner wheelwell.

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And closing panel

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I couldn’t get that nice curve Justin had just posted about but it works and matches the other side.

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With that done the B post braces can be added, I spent hours pounding these into shape!

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And finally the lockpost and be welded in after setting door depth.

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Next up sill/rocker.