Dick Weiss wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:06 pm
Remember the 'cheap VW' version w/the leather strap connection to the axles? I have 1-in my archives!
Dick
i have one also NEW. i modified the mount to fit a 58 356 not only do you have to mod the mount but the leather straps need to be longer to fit properly. i didn't use mine, it hangs down to much and my car is lower some. its for sale.
Jay D.
When these Compensators were Factory fitted, wasn't the Diameter of the Torsion Bars different ? Something to consider if removing the Compensator.
Jay C
Remember, the original compensator did just that…allowed the rear of the 366 to maintain some height when the thinner torsion bars were installed.
It does nothing to increase the handling of the car. The torsion bars give more negative camber and this is beneficial, hence the ‘compensator’ name.
Vic’s modern regulator actually imparts true handling improvement and prevents the rear wheels from tucking inward under hard use. The car will have a more modern and stable feel, particularly when fitted eith a 17.5mm front sway bar
I used the old, factory bar for many years but the difference betwen that and Vic’s is night and day.
I don’t know why people love to say the factory bar does nothing to increase the handling of the car- it is part of giving the car less rear roll stiffness, which should be a good thing. It alters the handling, seemingly not in a bad way. I’m not saying it’s the best answer but I think the idea was reasonable. (My factory spring is hanging on the wall)
The factory bar is only held in place by the two down-links at the outer ends, which, in turn, exert downward force on the axles. This is fine when used to increase the ride height of the vehicle but when driving, pulling the axles downward causes the rear wheels to tuck inward, narrowing the track...not something you want.
When first introduced, and used with the 'weaker' torsion bars, the cars did exhibit some handling increase, as the car squatted down in turns, which pushed the wheels outward into negative camber. The benefit was entirely due to the torsion bars, not the compensator spring. Since the compensator was not attached to the car, except for the links at each end, it really can't impart any influence on the roll stiffness. Again, it compensates for the reduced lift of the torsion bars by pushing the body upward.
As we have all seen, when the 356 is jacked up, the axles droop down...with a compensator this is even more pronounced because the compensator pulls the axles down. When the car is lowered back onto the ground, the wheels remain tucked inward until the vehicle is driven off. In spirited driving, when cresting a rise, the axles act the same way, causing the wheels to tuck under, exactly what you do not want.
I have two 356s, one with a factory compensator and one with none. It is my obervation that unless you are racing there is little to no differnce while driving on the road.
The “preloaded” factory bar in conjunction with weaker torsion bars in fact ends up with the same height and load carrying ability, along with decreased roll stiffness. It’s not about camber, only roll stiffness.
I had one on a car, it didn’t impress me much but I wouldn’t say it was an improper design
No, it certainly was not an improper design, as it did exactly what it was intended to do...compensate for the weaker torsion bars. Without the compensator and with the weaker torsions, the rear of the car sits low. When I still used one, the main benefit was that I could increase the rear ride height by turning up the drop-link nuts a few turns.
When the car leans into a turn, the bar, not being connected to anything , ( other than the two end links), doesn't do much.
The Skirmant's regulator performs as an active part of the suspension. It is bolted strongly to the transmission and the bar exerts constant upward pressure on the axles via linkage that firmly connects to each side. The old compensator hangs free against the links when the car is lifted, minimizing any true handling benefit.
I had the old compensators on three different coupes, an ex C-II '63 and two '64 SC's and I've only felt a real improvement with Vic's unit. The addition of a Willhoit 17.5mm front sway bar also balances things out.
AFTER A MINIMUM OF 58 YEARS The suspension on your car is well worn (the brass and the plastic spacers on the king pin always are) specifically the seating area for the head of the link pin in the steel area of the king pin carrier which touchers the head of the link pin rides in a cup area on the spindle pivot. You must have the factory tools as outlined in the shop manual. For the rear of your car the bushings for the trailing arms must be new and the suspension set to factory specifications. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE EVERYTHING CORRECT WHAT IS THE PURPOSE (RESULT) OF INSTALLING A CAMBER COMPENSATOR Your car is still going down the road crooked. ZIMZ
Last edited by Al Zim on Fri Jan 27, 2023 7:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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