transaxle noise

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Dave Erickson
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Re: transaxle noise

#16 Post by Dave Erickson »

Al Zim wrote: Tue Jun 11, 2024 1:43 pm Harlan thank you for mentioning the torque dude. With a 3/8 inch drive 60 foot pound torque wrench you can easily install 500 ft. lbs. of torque on you flywheel bolt. The same for the rear axle nuts on both drum and disc brake systems. I am sure that you cannot break or wear the tool out. al zim
But you will never know if you got the torque correct or not. A real torque wrench is calibrated using accurate equipment traceable to NIST standards. Torque Dude?

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Martin Benade
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Re: transaxle noise

#17 Post by Martin Benade »

Wouldn’t torque x leverage be fairly predictable?
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Harlan Halsey
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Re: transaxle noise

#18 Post by Harlan Halsey »

Dave Erickson wrote: Tue Jun 11, 2024 10:37 pm
Al Zim wrote: Tue Jun 11, 2024 1:43 pm Harlan thank you for mentioning the torque dude. With a 3/8 inch drive 60 foot pound torque wrench you can easily install 500 ft. lbs. of torque on you flywheel bolt. The same for the rear axle nuts on both drum and disc brake systems. I am sure that you cannot break or wear the tool out. al zim
But you will never know if you got the torque correct or not. A real torque wrench is calibrated using accurate equipment traceable to NIST standards. Torque Dude?
If you can multiply you will know.

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Wes Bender
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Re: transaxle noise

#19 Post by Wes Bender »

Probably close enough. The actual torque isn't as critical in this application as it would be with the case bolts for instance.
Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.....

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Re: transaxle noise

#20 Post by Al Zim »

We have two (2) 500 ft. pounds torque wrenches in the shop. IN THE DISTANT PAST WE WOULD CHECK THE CALIBRATION OF THE TORQUE DUDE. WE NEVER FOUND AN ERROR. If your torque wrench is incorrect at 55 ft. lbs. Then the 500 foot pound torque that is dialed in is also incorrect.
We always use new hardware when assembling an engine. Because of the low torque required on the case hardware you can use a 1/4 inch electric torque wrench with 1/4 inch drive sockets. This is a pleasure to use. The sump plate (new) uses 7 foot pounds of torque to seat it properly. That is 3 times around the sump plate to achieve (6 MM nuts) this torque. Smaller hardware also makes it easier to correctly torque the nuts on the camshaft plug that is located under the flywheel and the rear pulley. al
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Re: transaxle noise

#21 Post by Martin Benade »

The cam plug nuts are 12mm. You use smaller than that?
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Al Zim
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Re: transaxle noise

#22 Post by Al Zim »

The flange on the nut is 10MM the fitting on the for the wrench/socket is 8 mm. All the case hardware is that size. So is the Zenith hold down nuts. These can be installed easily on the with an 8mm 1/4 inch drive socket (and extension).
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Re: transaxle noise

#23 Post by Martin Benade »

Al, is your zero-thickness nut strong enough? 8 mm threads in 8mm atf is VERY thin.
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Re: transaxle noise

#24 Post by Wes Bender »

Use 'em on Solexes and you won't warp the flanges.
Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.....

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Re: transaxle noise

#25 Post by Al Zim »

Martin: Et all: how tight do you torque the Zenith carburetor? Is over 10 ft.lbs. necessary? Using the phenolic carburetor spacer to keep the fuel from boiling in the carburetor will break at the bolt holes if you are pulling HARD on a wrench or a 3/8 socket and ratchet.. al
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Re: transaxle noise

#26 Post by Martin Benade »

Not very tight, I agree that a 1/4” ratchet is perfect, but what size nuts do you really use? 8 mm atf is an impossibility on an 8 mm thread.
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Re: transaxle noise

#27 Post by Dave Erickson »

Assume there is at least a 5% error in the Torque Dude. Then make a guess, is it reading too low by 5% or too high? So on the safe side, assume too low. Then torque the nut with a 5% increase in torque value. Which might end up being 10% too high if your assumption was wrong. It hasn’t been that many years since the market was full of flywheel nuts that failed if over-torqued, at great expense to the unlucky owner of the engine.

The Torque Dude introduces a lot of friction into the torque reading, so it is not a simple multiplication. It is using a crude tool to do a job that has a precise spec. Why bother with a crude tool when accurate tools are readily available?

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Harlan Halsey
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Re: transaxle noise

#28 Post by Harlan Halsey »

Neither the gland nut nor the axle nuts are precisely torqued these days. And torque is inherently a poor measure of clamping force anyway. When accuracy is required, the parts are tightened to stretch. As in Carrillo rod bolts.
The Torque Dude doesn't seem to have much friction in that it operates smoothly. What friction it has is sliding, not static, friction. And it is a lot more convenient than the 3/4" drive breaker bar and cheater pipe I used to use. Or the 500 lb ft range torque wrench which we use on wire wheel knock offs. And it has a big advantage in that you don't have to supply the big equal counter torque. My conclusion is that it is far better than it has to be for the jobs we are doing, assuming you torque it with a torque wrench.

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Re: transaxle noise

#29 Post by Al Zim »

HARLAN: Sums the use of the Torque Dude PERFECTLY! We have sold hundreds of the Torque Dudes. These are specifically designed for the Porsche but can be used on the VW. It will not work visa versa. al
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