front end bearings

[Brad Ripley]

For some reason in the Ask Brad we send out yesterday to many 356 Talk readers, we left out the fact the with early 356 and 356A front spindles a roller bearing can be used instead of the original ball version. So, read below for the roller bearings that can used.

The inner roller is : Bearing number, marked on the bearing: 30305. The Porsche part number: 900 059 003 00 Size: 25 x 62 mm

The outer roller is: 30304 900 059 002 00 20 x 52 mm

Stoddard has both bearings in stock and I also suppose other vendors have them --- With the suggestion that one of each bearing be in your Breakdown Kit for the next driving event or tour.

Regards, Brad Ripley

[Jim Clement]

Brad - Thanks for that.
I was ahead of that when I was doing my travel kit for my T1 car.
I ordered them a few months ago (from Stoddard) and they are now in the kit.. and that done, will likely never need them.
I also used them when I rebuilt the car a few years ago.

[Martin Benade]

Brad. you should add a correction that B drums are not needed to upgrade an A to the thicker spindles, and when during A production did Porsche make that change themselves. Then the full story will be presented.

[Brad Ripley]

Martin, Thanks for reminding me about the brake drums as not needed --usually. I have always thought the stronger axels were done at the same time as the start of 356B production -- same thought about the B drums vs A drums.

[Martin Benade]

I think it was during 1958 model year that the axles were beefed up, but I mostly only know Bs.

[Vic Skirmants]

Pretty much a 1959 change for the "B" axles.

[Harlan Halsey]

Sometime in the 1960s the SCCA required the larger "B" spindles on race cars. So we replaced the "A" spindles with the readily available B spindles, Magnafluxing them first of course. The spindles and the bearings were all that we needed to replace. All my street cars have that easy modification too, including my current project, the 1956: A drums and backing plates with B spindles. The drums were refurbished by Martin Willis along with arc-ed shoes.

[Vic Skirmants]

History lesson on 356 spindles.
Early small spindle, can definitely break at the base; you lose the whole drum, etc.
Later B spindle; NEVER seen a cracked one!
C spindle can break at the outer end. Caliper sort of holds the disc in place. Have broken two in race cars.

[Jon Bunin]

I have always thought the stronger axels were done at the same time as the start of 356B production -- same thought about the B drums vs A drums.

Brad, the "Reinforced Stub Axles" were first used on 356A Carreras during June '58 production, then on all A models and cars by September '58.
But yes, the B drums were only used on B models.

[David Jones]

When I acquired my 59 cabrio which is a September 1st of 58 build, it had one old style left front stub axle with 2 nuts and a lockplate and the right side had the later style. No idea if it left the factory like that but I'm guessing that the right hand one had been replaced while the left one was original.

[Al Zim]

356C Disc brake cars: the caliper DOES NOT HOLD THE ROTOR IN PLACE! that is done by the bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. You can have a bad hub repaired. LOOK CAREFULLY the hub will talk to you.
We know that the 356 and the 911/12 cars use the same bearings on the front axle. I have never seen the end of the stub axle break off. I will bet the answer is simple! al

[Martin Benade]

When things break the caliper will then hold things somewhat together. Not by design, but the rotor is trapped by it

[Vic Skirmants]

When things break the caliper will then hold things somewhat together. Not by design, but the rotor is trapped by it

Exactly! I have personal experience.

[Al Zim]

If you are using the A style spindle there is a clamping nut (similar to the clamping nut on the B/C ) that makes installing and adjusting the wheel bearings quick and easy with no unusual wrenches. (and no skinned knuckles). In Stock 817-267-4451

[Harlan Halsey]

History lesson on 356 spindles.
Early small spindle, can definitely break at the base; you lose the whole drum, etc.
Later B spindle; NEVER seen a cracked one!
C spindle can break at the outer end. Caliper sort of holds the disc in place. Have broken two in race cars.

Vic, I doubt that an A spindle which has been magnafluxed and is crack free will break in a single race weekend. No doubt that they do crack and break, occasionally even on street cars with high mileage. Apparently the same for the end of a race car B/C spindle. Were yours crack checked? And then broke in a single race weekend?
Chuck Forge ran the Red Car for decades with early spindles. We were short of money in those days, so Chuck ground the crack out and rechecked the spindle. He did that several times until a third of the spindle was gone. Sometime in the 1980s I think he replaced the old spindles.
I think my point is that if you crack check critical parts, They are very unlikely to break before the next crack check. I got through my first seasons of vintage racing by grinding the cracks out of my rods and crankshaft in my Convertible D engine. After a couple of seasons of that I got tired of rebuilding and got better parts.
Now I crack check everything on my initial build of a street car and thereafter don't worry about it.