Replacing Tie-Rod Ends, Correct Tool Or Alternative

[Bruce Baker]

Alan,

I went to the Stahlwille web site and searched the tool 12616 and it came back as a ball joint separator tool. Is this the same tool as you have? I'm also a tool junkie so $100 bucks is not out of the question if it is in fact the correct tool.
Thank you for sending me your post.

Regards,
Dan K

Let it be noted that the VW-266f tool as shown in the 356 shop manual looks a lot like and works exactly like Stahlwille 12616. Therefore, no matter which 356 expert/vendor/shop you trust today, no matter what semantics or attempts at humor, what was specified by the Factory for rod end separation is actually available.

Look at the picture in the manual and look at the picture I posted early on (did anyone else post one of 12616?....no names mentioned, of course...) and you can decide what you want to buy/use.

Let it also be noted that hammers, either manual or air-powered, with or without "pickleforks" can get the job done. BTW, other versions of the tool that do the same procedure will actually work, too!
-------------------------------------
The usual approach is to put pressure on the tie rod end with one of those inclined plane (screw thread) tools and tap with a steel hammer on the parts. The vibration helps, but be warned when that tapered pin pops, it gets your attention! The first is the worst, but even knowing what happens, it's still a surprise when it finally does!

[Jack Stenner]

Deja Vu -- I just ordered this from Sears immediately before seeing this thread (to replace the drag link on my bus):

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 000P?mv=rr

$28 with tax and shipping.

Jack

[Guest]

Jack,
That is an excellent tool also, I have one in my arsenal.

Alan

Jack_Stenner wrote:

Deja Vu -- I just ordered this from Sears immediately before seeing this
thread (to replace the drag link on my bus):

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 000P?mv=rr

$28 with tax and shipping.

Jack


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[Brian R Adams]

Old thread, but I strive to revive always:

Here's the current Stahlwille page for their "Universal Puller For Ball Joints 12616":

https://www.stahlwille.de/products/de_e ... 50010.html

I haven't yet called one of their US distributors (shown on a map on their "Contact" page) for price and availability.


For the price (and "In Stock" at my local store!) it'll certainly be worth trying Harbor Freight's "Universal 3/4" Ball Joint Separator":

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quart ... 99849.html

Brian
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[David Jones]

Brian, that HF separator works very well. Had mine for 20 years.

[Wes Bender]

That's what Rainman Ray uses.

[Dennis Vogel]

+1 for the Harbor Freight tool. In stock. Inexpensive. Worked like a charm.

@Dan Kalinski This is a very useful thread...

[Al Zim]

After a minimum of 58 Years most if not all the front end parts on the 356 are worn out. You will need a P69, P70, VW256A , VW 259, and a B/C shop manual that is updated. Find a competent machine shop to measure and fit the front end parts. TORSION BARS: These run in needle bearings. Grease the front end BEFORE you start any work. If the grease come out is a brownish muddy color, then it becomes time to also remove the torsion bars and SWAB (clean) the torsion bar tubes. If grooves exist in the outer bearing area of the trailing arm (thicker area) the arm should be checked with the P 70. Closely follow the procedure outlined in the Shop Manual. The front end and torsion bars should be greased every 750 miles to alleviate the wear conditions. Zim

[Chris Eckhoff]

Just did my tie rod ends and man, does the right tool help. I found this Stahwille on eBay. After a good lubricating, I just kept cranking on it. Pow! These joints are loud when they let go, but what a great, non pounding way to remove them.

[Hugo Karasawa]

I have used this two.
Harbor Freight

[Al Zim]

WE NEVER REUSE OLD SUSPENSION PARTS! As an individual or a shop you cannot afford a failure that would jeopardies your ability to maintain your business and a customers well being (read LIFE) It is IMPORTANT for the technician to have the correct factory measuring tools and a shop manual to insure proper assembly. This includes a method for correctly aligning the 356. The front design of the 356 and VW does not address areas of wear that 60 PLUS (+) YEARS have inflicted including lack of lubrication on the king and link pins.
We DO NOT REPAIR ELECTRIC CARS. A FIRE IN OUR BUILDING INSTANTLY PUTS US OUT OF BUSINESS. al zim