Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
- Steve Raucher
- 356 Fan
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- Location: Seaside CA 93955
Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
So my '58 356A Speedster I doubt has ever had it King and link pins replaced in the front suspension.
Also the original ZF steering box I believe likely has not been touched. It leaks a bit but a little grease has helped the leak.
Car seems to steer fine but I wounder if it would steer and handle better with these two item refurbished. Zims and Martin Willis still doing the steering box rebuilds?
I would not want to do a core exchange but retain the original rebuilt steering box, this possible?
Do you all agree to rebuild a 64 year old box because of age? Same with the King and link pins?
Any insight is appreciated. Also how difficult to remove and replace the box once it is rebuilt? Need a lift or would a jack and jack stands suffice?
Would imagine the R&R of the King and link pins will be a dirty and challenging job on my own.
KTF,
Steve
Also the original ZF steering box I believe likely has not been touched. It leaks a bit but a little grease has helped the leak.
Car seems to steer fine but I wounder if it would steer and handle better with these two item refurbished. Zims and Martin Willis still doing the steering box rebuilds?
I would not want to do a core exchange but retain the original rebuilt steering box, this possible?
Do you all agree to rebuild a 64 year old box because of age? Same with the King and link pins?
Any insight is appreciated. Also how difficult to remove and replace the box once it is rebuilt? Need a lift or would a jack and jack stands suffice?
Would imagine the R&R of the King and link pins will be a dirty and challenging job on my own.
KTF,
Steve
- Martin Benade
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
You could remove the steering knuckles yourself without great trouble and send them out for the kp and lp replacement. I wouldn’t worry too much about the steering box if you are able to keep lubricant in it and it works smoothly.
I’d suggest you study up on adjusting (tightening) the link pins, adjust them, and then check the front wheels for looseness. With the car jacked up grab the wheel top and bottom and see if it rocks. To me, if it only moved 3/16” I’d just drive it. Ideally it would be zero. Next grab the wheel at 9 (edited) and 3 o’clock and see if it moves that way. If it does, then something is loose, kp lp or tie rods.
If nothing’s loose, grease it and keep driving. Any noticeable play, maybe look for an expert opinion.
I’d suggest you study up on adjusting (tightening) the link pins, adjust them, and then check the front wheels for looseness. With the car jacked up grab the wheel top and bottom and see if it rocks. To me, if it only moved 3/16” I’d just drive it. Ideally it would be zero. Next grab the wheel at 9 (edited) and 3 o’clock and see if it moves that way. If it does, then something is loose, kp lp or tie rods.
If nothing’s loose, grease it and keep driving. Any noticeable play, maybe look for an expert opinion.
Last edited by Martin Benade on Wed Nov 09, 2022 9:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
Cleveland Ohio
62 Cabriolet
56 VW
02 IS 300
04 Sienna
62 Cabriolet
56 VW
02 IS 300
04 Sienna
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- 356 Fan
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Steve, if you want to do it yourself, I have the tools and you are welcome to use them. I will be glad to help. I did the link and king pins on my Convertible D a few months ago. One trailing arm and one C-link were bent and both were replaced. If you are coming to Pt. Pinos breakfast on Saturday we can talk about it. I also replaced the seals in my ZF steering box, but you probably have the earlier VW box.
- Vic Skirmants
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Dave; 1958 would have the ZF, as he stated.
Martin; you mean grab the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock.
Martin; you mean grab the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock.
- Martin Benade
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Thanks, 9 and 3
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- Al Zim
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
In the vendor announcements ZimZ has posted an outline of the work necessary to properly restore the front end. You MUST have the Porsche measuring tools as REQUIRED in the shop manual. NO EXCEPTIONS! Purchasing kits and parts will not give you quality parts...RATHER this will be a set of things that can be installed in a VW/Porsche dealership in 1958 with out sophisticated machine tools. 65 YEARS AGO. Do not be MISCONCEIVED ABOUT 356 PARTS NEVER WEARING OUT. I would venture that you speedster is older than you are and suitably worn out! Zim
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Vic, you know my steering box. Any suggestions as to where to start? Still leaking fluid.
- Vic Skirmants
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Linda; short of tearing it out and completely rebuilding it, adding grease is the easiest way.
- Steve Raucher
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Thanks for the insight all.
Yes Dave I plan on being at Pt. Pinos PG Sat. breakfast hope to see you there!
Regards,
Steve
Yes Dave I plan on being at Pt. Pinos PG Sat. breakfast hope to see you there!
Regards,
Steve
- Thomas Sottile
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
If your steering box is leaking you have to replace the seals at the same time you adjust clean and replace any ball joints that need it Do it right Do it once
- Tom Wavrin
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Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Pourable lithium based grease for the steering box? Anybody used this?
https://mossmotors.com/steering-box-lube-by-dynolite
Agree with Thomas about replacing the 2 seals on the ZF steering box, especially if already working on the front suspension and you have a bad leak.
https://mossmotors.com/steering-box-lube-by-dynolite
Agree with Thomas about replacing the 2 seals on the ZF steering box, especially if already working on the front suspension and you have a bad leak.
Tom, Reg # 10576, Oregon
'62 1600S Karmann HT
'62 1600S Karmann HT
- Steve Raucher
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Working on the front end tie rods etc now. Having grief removing the 17mm nut on the bottom of outside tie rods. Nut loosens a tiny bit with a lot of force but does not seem to want to unthread why? What am I missing here? Cotter pins removed. All else has come undone although unthreading the actual tie rod likely will be fun.
Friend of mine will drop by soon with his tool needed to seat new tie rod in place wonder if this has something to do with my struggles.
Sorry for the sideways photos.
Any insight is appreciated.
Regards,
Steve
- Ken Tuvman
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Guessing nuts have been in a long time - penetrating oil - PB Blaster or Kroll / heat / maybe more leverage with longer breaker bar - if friends coming do it as a team.
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- Steve Raucher
- 356 Fan
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
Realized these are left hand threaded. Said so on the package thus they came right off with penetrating oil. Seem to be pressing in thus I am guessing I need that special tool to pop out. Regarding King and Link pins this special tool also needed?
Is it a major undertaking to R&R King and Link pins?
Thanks,
Steve
Is it a major undertaking to R&R King and Link pins?
Thanks,
Steve
- Martin Benade
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Re: Opinion on replacement and rebuild parts.
The 17 mm nut wouldn’t be left hand thread, but the big part that screws into the actual tie rod tube could be left hand thread
Cleveland Ohio
62 Cabriolet
56 VW
02 IS 300
04 Sienna
62 Cabriolet
56 VW
02 IS 300
04 Sienna