Pitman Arm Thread size (P72 tool)

[Jon Bunin]

Hi guys. anyone know what thread the Pitman Arm is?

Since the original question has yet to be answered...

Tim, the pitman arm itself is not threaded, only splined.
The steering gear shaft to which the pitman arm attaches has a threaded end of M20 x 1.5 mm.

[Ron LaDow]

Wrong reply

[Ron LaDow]

Wrong reply.

[Tim Splaine]

Hi Ken, yes I bought a sand blaster for my Christmas present to myself last year which should do the job. Thinking about ultrasonic are they any good?

Al, I bought a worm a couple of weeks back but hoping it won't be needed. Also have a new pin and seals from Paul Smith UK. So sad that they can't be remade

Dave, I tried turning both ways to get out but didn't work for me. When putting it back do you think it should go in without bending access hole using this method?

Jon. I have a M20 x 1.5 mm tap which I might use to make a boss to protect the thread when i decide how to proceed.

Thanks guys

[Al Zim]

I have always removed the steering box from the bottom. on the T-1 cars (1957)and earlier without the removable plate in front of the steering box you have to jiggle things around but it will work. We have a box full of bad worm gears (all worn out) ! NO help for you there.
There are different setting positions for the steering damper T-5, 1962 start of production and C/SC the C location is vague and the 1962 location on the top of the torsion bar tube is not always there since the factory was still trying to use up the older torsion bar housing. It is mentioned in the shop letters but not precisely.

[Tim Splaine]

Hi Al, mines a 59 T5, I couldn't see how it would come out from below when I was down there or above with the box lid on but I will do a trial run prior to painting.
Tim

[Tim Splaine]

OK so here is an update with some helpful notes for anyone working on their 356B T5 ZF steering box too.
There isn't a lot of space to work with but I managed to disconnect the steering rods and shock with this tool "Dayuan Ball joint puller" from Amazon.
See picture.

I cleaned up, heated with a flame and used penetrating oil to remove the pitman arm with a homemade puller using box section but failed.
I let it cool down and sprayed with lots more penetrating oil and left for a holiday. In the meantime my Dad took it away to make something else as a pulling tool and in the process decided to try again with his old hydraulic puller cold. Bingo it came off. Now I don't know if we got lucky as the box has been apart before and may not have been that tight or the oil and earlier attempt had helped. This is the tool my Dad used.
See picture.

I also made up this bracket to press the arm down against the spring for checking for play.
See picture.
I've also included the measurements of the new bearings which I bought from Paul at PR services UK
see pictures

Q) Now I am putting the box back together with a new peg and need some guidance on the order of the Pitman Arm washers. I have taken a picture of how they were removed but I'm not 100% sure this is correct.
Does anyone know?
Thanks, Tim

[Tim Splaine]

Pictures

[Tim Splaine]

This is the order of the washers when i removed the Pitman Arm.
Is this correct?
Thanks

[Tim Splaine]

Just an update for anyone else going through the same procedure. I did manage to get the box back in without bending my 1959 early T5 356B
Also after painting the box I marked the tight spot with tippex so I could align the centre with the box in the car

[Tim Splaine]

I have included A picture of how I used the pillar drill base to hold the box whilst torquing up.
Also pictures of the tippex marks

[Tim Splaine]

Finally I should add that I only replaced the seals and peg and star tab, The old peg looked ok but that aside the new one is in and the car now drives great.

[Jacques Lefriant]

Hi Al
the gear is no big deal but will probably require an order of 50 pieces.
j