Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
- Bil Brown
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
I ended up making my own "rubber bands" to cover the rivets. I bought some innertubes for either 12/13 or 14" wheels, and cut them out in one piece.
Bill Brown
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
That seemed to have turned the trick for you Bill. I'll know very soon if that epoxy sealant worked for me.
T1 kick panel under carpet strip detail:
Rewrapping the lower forward seal channel separately in Naugahyde as found originally. The original wrappings where both still present and curled over the alloy carpet tack strips. I wished I could have been able to reinstall these but the ends where crispy, torn and bit short in length overall. In their stead I have this German version Naugahyde with a very close grain pattern. Before I could install I had to figure out how high it was originally covered. Brett Johnson's new authenticity book helped provide me with that answer. This original example was ending just above the mounting screw but still well below the leading edge of the carpet. Cut to final length and gluing begins. Fully installed with original carpet strip remounted over top. Final length is just my closest approximation of what I was seeing in that shot and what looked the best to me. The leading edge did not appear to be doubled over so it was left raw. Again as for length I'm sure they all varied by a few MM's from car to car so I didn't get too hung up. Close up as to the reason this channel gets this covering. Mocked up the GT coverings I'll be installing this time around. Every Autos international kit I've seen for 356A come set up for a T2 application with this Naugahyde lead wrap sewn in. This test piece was dismantled so I could play around confirm if the actual profile shape was at least a match. This leading edge would have to be a canvas binding like the rest of it to be correct and to work with the T1 alloy carpet strip. Anyway got them both installed and onto the next deal.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
T1 kick panel under carpet strip detail:
Rewrapping the lower forward seal channel separately in Naugahyde as found originally. The original wrappings where both still present and curled over the alloy carpet tack strips. I wished I could have been able to reinstall these but the ends where crispy, torn and bit short in length overall. In their stead I have this German version Naugahyde with a very close grain pattern. Before I could install I had to figure out how high it was originally covered. Brett Johnson's new authenticity book helped provide me with that answer. This original example was ending just above the mounting screw but still well below the leading edge of the carpet. Cut to final length and gluing begins. Fully installed with original carpet strip remounted over top. Final length is just my closest approximation of what I was seeing in that shot and what looked the best to me. The leading edge did not appear to be doubled over so it was left raw. Again as for length I'm sure they all varied by a few MM's from car to car so I didn't get too hung up. Close up as to the reason this channel gets this covering. Mocked up the GT coverings I'll be installing this time around. Every Autos international kit I've seen for 356A come set up for a T2 application with this Naugahyde lead wrap sewn in. This test piece was dismantled so I could play around confirm if the actual profile shape was at least a match. This leading edge would have to be a canvas binding like the rest of it to be correct and to work with the T1 alloy carpet strip. Anyway got them both installed and onto the next deal.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
Going slightly out of order but these are more of the cars component restoration during the past few years.
Original emblem restoration: Fender scripts are original to this car and have always been with it. Same goes for the dash medallion. No rear small script but I finally acquired a correct and usable big pin version along my journey. Only had one Porsche emblem with the car and was so twisted out of shape (acid trip effect) during its removal sometime in the distant past that it was unusable. Again I was able to round this very clean pair of originals for this project. All were sent to Victor Miles so he could perform his magic on them. Several weeks later they came back perfect and as beautiful as everything else Victor does. Preserved texture finish between the letters was a detail I was looking for and he of course nailed it. Same with the medallion, all detail and relief features preserved. Victor never disappoints, was looking forward to putting these on as soon as.... The car was in final paint by this time and I wanted to begin putting the dash back together. So a round of interior dash components was sent next to victor. The small cylinder was to the cigarette lighter that was in the car when My father bought it so I assumed it was original but Victor set me straight on that. Once again everything I sent came back absolutely gorgeous. It was a bit of a feeding frenzy at this point, I was ready to begin emptying out these shoe boxes of parts I had bagged and ready to go for several years by this time. Can't count the number of times my girlfriend walked in on me picking through these boxes. She'd laugh, roll her eyes or just shake her head while passing through all in good fun of course. Rechromed handle going back onto its stalk and just located the locking pin hole here. More on this reassembly next.
Thanks for looking.
Justin
Original emblem restoration: Fender scripts are original to this car and have always been with it. Same goes for the dash medallion. No rear small script but I finally acquired a correct and usable big pin version along my journey. Only had one Porsche emblem with the car and was so twisted out of shape (acid trip effect) during its removal sometime in the distant past that it was unusable. Again I was able to round this very clean pair of originals for this project. All were sent to Victor Miles so he could perform his magic on them. Several weeks later they came back perfect and as beautiful as everything else Victor does. Preserved texture finish between the letters was a detail I was looking for and he of course nailed it. Same with the medallion, all detail and relief features preserved. Victor never disappoints, was looking forward to putting these on as soon as.... The car was in final paint by this time and I wanted to begin putting the dash back together. So a round of interior dash components was sent next to victor. The small cylinder was to the cigarette lighter that was in the car when My father bought it so I assumed it was original but Victor set me straight on that. Once again everything I sent came back absolutely gorgeous. It was a bit of a feeding frenzy at this point, I was ready to begin emptying out these shoe boxes of parts I had bagged and ready to go for several years by this time. Can't count the number of times my girlfriend walked in on me picking through these boxes. She'd laugh, roll her eyes or just shake her head while passing through all in good fun of course. Rechromed handle going back onto its stalk and just located the locking pin hole here. More on this reassembly next.
Thanks for looking.
Justin
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
Handbrake restoration:
Thanks for looking!
Justin
During the mechanism restoration it became apparent the shouldered hole in the position collar was hogged out. While it still worked the slop was giving the handle the freedom to rotate back over too far with the collar resting against the housing in the start position. Didn't like it and Couldn't leave it as it would only get worse and strip out completely.
Hexed stalk is 10mm so I sacrificed one my sockets for the needed sleeve. Not only was it the easiest fix but being tool steel the problem wasn't going to happen again.
Now I had to get it indexed before welding so the handle rests level with this collars ear against the housing.
Collar cad plated with the rest in black oxide.
Ready to get it all back into its housing.
Assembled and ready to install.
Mounted and in for good. Handle sitting level with limiter collar resting against the housing. Well near level, looks like I missed it by a degree or two but I'm okay with it.
Locks and releases just like it should with no slop. All finished with this and onto the next deal.Thanks for looking!
Justin
- Jim Goetz
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
Justin, thanks for the detailed reply. I am good to go and really glad you are leading the way. Your project car is spectacular and fun to follow.
Justin Rio wrote: ↑Tue Jul 06, 2021 5:39 pm Hi Jim, Thanks for taking some time to look through a little of it, I appreciate that. Yes, for wire or riveted wheels innertubes are usually required. I was told by Borrani that I've have to run tubes with these wheels however I wasn't ready to accept that. I did some research on the web, youtube etc. and found several videos on converting to tubeless; mostly in the bicycle and motorcycle world but the info was still educational and applicable. The red covering your looking at is called "rim tape" and again it's mostly found in the bicycle world. Its on the pricey side and the rolls are very small. I was looking for a rubber seal ring like Bill describes but I didn't find anything ready to go that would fit. I experimented with making my own using a new Tube flap as the base but it was a mixed result at best and really didn't seem like it would be air tight, at least not for the foreseeable.
IMG_1566.JPG
The best tip I got for sealing out the rivet and or wire heads was this 3M product.
IMG_1567s.JPG
It appeared to really be good stuff as it as a pain to clean or get off your hands and almost stained like paint. You can see on the label that it takes 7 days to cure and I can attest to that as it was still soft and transferable 3 days later.
IMG_1616.JPG
I was still experimenting with the rim tape as well and thought I'd go over the sealed heads with it for some extra sealing insurance. I bought this wider version but it was very stiff and really behaved more like packing tape even though it was labeled and designated for wheels. It was junk and I ended up peeling it off.
IMG_7736.JPG
I eventually came to the conclusion that this sealant should really be enough if the heads are covered thoroughly. Its been nearly 3 years since it was applied and these sealed heads are still soft and very well adhered. I think this stuff would be great for underside lap joints on the chassis too provided you can leave it for a week to cure. As for being air tight, I won't know for sure until I get the tires mounted but I think its got a good chance of sealing properly.
Justin
- Jim Goetz
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
I'm glad you said that as I was thinking about that very solution, with sealant covering each rivet, then tube over the top. Thanks Bill
Jim
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
I appreciate that, thank you Jim. I'm glad to know that you found something of use here; As I've said before even if its what not to do.
Door receiver restoration: The original receivers where both broken and cracked. I also made a mess out of the original screw heads removing them back when I was kid. Through the years I had accumulated a small collection of original receivers but they had to have the hump in the center contact profile. Fortunately I had a pair of really nice originals well preserved under several coats of old paint. I was also able to put together a nice set of original screws. I know the venders offer these new but the heads are slightly smaller and don't fit as well into the holes of the original receivers. Cleaning up some mild chew marks by hammering the faces flat. Everything cleaned and prepped and just about ready for installation. Just had to zinc plate the screws. The threaded backing plates where done some time ago.
Not worth sending these out so I did them myself. Raw and plated. Just a light coat of clear needed to finish them off. New/old striker assembly mounted on for good. You can see how well the heads of original screws flush fit into those holes. Original wedge receivers cleaned polished and also ready to remount. Best preserved original hardware used as well. All cavities and mounting surfaces get a coat of grease as rust inhibitor. I sleep better at night. Lock posts assembled. Onto the next deal.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
Door receiver restoration: The original receivers where both broken and cracked. I also made a mess out of the original screw heads removing them back when I was kid. Through the years I had accumulated a small collection of original receivers but they had to have the hump in the center contact profile. Fortunately I had a pair of really nice originals well preserved under several coats of old paint. I was also able to put together a nice set of original screws. I know the venders offer these new but the heads are slightly smaller and don't fit as well into the holes of the original receivers. Cleaning up some mild chew marks by hammering the faces flat. Everything cleaned and prepped and just about ready for installation. Just had to zinc plate the screws. The threaded backing plates where done some time ago.
Not worth sending these out so I did them myself. Raw and plated. Just a light coat of clear needed to finish them off. New/old striker assembly mounted on for good. You can see how well the heads of original screws flush fit into those holes. Original wedge receivers cleaned polished and also ready to remount. Best preserved original hardware used as well. All cavities and mounting surfaces get a coat of grease as rust inhibitor. I sleep better at night. Lock posts assembled. Onto the next deal.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
Rubber wedge trivia.
Onto the next deal..
Thanks for looking!
Justin
Have a small box of original wedges in various states of decay that I had accumulated through the years.
As you can see there are two distinctive sizes.
As I kept digging the small ones even varied a bit. Initial thoughts where that the big ones might be pre-a but once I began mock ups that theory no longer worked.
I started on the left side with a small wedge it was clear that it wasn't the correct part. It was way too low and no where near in reach of the alloy receiver. I could have just ran it but I wanted these to a least perform a bit of the work they were intended to do. I moved onto this larger version and I knew immediately that this was it.
A quick coat of grease to confirm contact transfer with the receiver sealed the deal.
I guess my car takes the large ones...
A matching large version cleaned and mounted to the right side.
This was as far as the door would close with that size wedge in there.
The lock posts and doors on this car are factory original with no collision damage. So this is just another example of the asymmetrical natural of these hand built body's.
Moved onto this smaller original wedge for the right side and the contact was comparable to the left side, mystery and problem solved. The wedges where obviously custom fit to each specific door and lock post relation.Onto the next deal..
Thanks for looking!
Justin
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
The fun of adding some jewelry to the dash.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
Original glove box lock and key but not original to this car.
Once mounted I could not get it to engage, the reach was a touch shy.
The fix was to remove this much from the beauty/spacer ring allowing the tumbler to come forward the needed distance. All the while taking care not to screw up the chrome in the process. This turned the trick in end.
Another missing component when my father bought this car was the radio delete plate. Along the way I was able to snag this original green cover with OG mounting hardware.
A couple of scrapes to the back side paint but nothing serious.
Outer plastic face was sanded with 2500 to get past all the old scuffs then polished back to a mirror finish.
Plate, ashtray housing, medallion, lock and grab handle all mounted on for good. This was one of those rare and fun sessions in the shop. It certainly beat grinding weld seams...
I had restored the column several years prior and it was now finally time to unbag and install it as well.
It was so nice to see a few of my long term storage bags and boxes being emptied and the parts finally going on where they belonged. Good times...Thanks for looking!
Justin
- Bil Brown
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
Justin, I just discovered the abcgt site.
Your thorough documentation would have made my restoration much easier and better if only I had found it sooner!
Reinventing the wheel as it were.
Great work!
Your thorough documentation would have made my restoration much easier and better if only I had found it sooner!
Reinventing the wheel as it were.
Great work!
Check out my progress! “Bob’s 356A project”
KTF
Bob
KTF
Bob
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
Thanks again Bill.
Hey Robert, thank you for stopping by over there. Are you referring to the '59 S/R coupe I'm helping a buddy with?
https://forum.abcgt.com/forum/main-foru ... sis-108625 Had to deal with a lot of the substructure in and around the rear torsion tube just as you did on your project. This car is pretty rusty though I think yours might be a little further advanced. Keep up the great progress on it BTW and thank you once again. Justin
Installing some old original sound deadener :
I had carefully harvested these perimeter sections from another car with the intended purpose of keeping them for patterns but I decided to just use them instead of having them clutter my shop any further. I had thought about using silicon to install them but went with this roofing tar from the local hardware store. Coated both the car and the inside of the strips with it and reconstituted what was still there with some torch heat. Used both a torch and a heat gun; had to work quick to ensure both sides remained warm enough for good adhesion. Only had the perimeter pieces but I mainly reused these to help provide some of that old unique 356 interior smell. Prepping the new door edge base strips. An old stray complete T1 door I purchased years ago provided a lot of original pattern and information. Its original base strips provided me with correct relief cut out for the turn and the correct width. As you can see it runs a little narrower than the new offerings. The cut out shape yields this space once its installed. I would have relief cut it without this space in the end but this is how they did it originally. I also narrowed the run to match the OG sample. Mostly glued in for good. Can't install the back strips until I have mechanisms in for good as they cover the mounting screws.
More little detail jobs next.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
Hey Robert, thank you for stopping by over there. Are you referring to the '59 S/R coupe I'm helping a buddy with?
https://forum.abcgt.com/forum/main-foru ... sis-108625 Had to deal with a lot of the substructure in and around the rear torsion tube just as you did on your project. This car is pretty rusty though I think yours might be a little further advanced. Keep up the great progress on it BTW and thank you once again. Justin
Installing some old original sound deadener :
I had carefully harvested these perimeter sections from another car with the intended purpose of keeping them for patterns but I decided to just use them instead of having them clutter my shop any further. I had thought about using silicon to install them but went with this roofing tar from the local hardware store. Coated both the car and the inside of the strips with it and reconstituted what was still there with some torch heat. Used both a torch and a heat gun; had to work quick to ensure both sides remained warm enough for good adhesion. Only had the perimeter pieces but I mainly reused these to help provide some of that old unique 356 interior smell. Prepping the new door edge base strips. An old stray complete T1 door I purchased years ago provided a lot of original pattern and information. Its original base strips provided me with correct relief cut out for the turn and the correct width. As you can see it runs a little narrower than the new offerings. The cut out shape yields this space once its installed. I would have relief cut it without this space in the end but this is how they did it originally. I also narrowed the run to match the OG sample. Mostly glued in for good. Can't install the back strips until I have mechanisms in for good as they cover the mounting screws.
More little detail jobs next.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
Yes, the 59 A rebuild on abcgt. Also Phil’s foam car, I thought I was taking a long time!
And of course this thread, my car came complete but completely disassembled, I have no idea how to redo the interior details but this will surely be my reference.
Funny thing about the abcgt site, it won’t let me post or message so I must lurk in awe!
And of course this thread, my car came complete but completely disassembled, I have no idea how to redo the interior details but this will surely be my reference.
Funny thing about the abcgt site, it won’t let me post or message so I must lurk in awe!
Check out my progress! “Bob’s 356A project”
KTF
Bob
KTF
Bob
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
Hey Bob, no, you're a lot faster than us. Thank you for the kind words and for taking some time to have a look through some of it. I'll see if I can get that figured out, thanks once again. Justin
Wire harness weather sheathing under rear seat pan: I was looking for a replacement protective sheathing for the harness run under the rear seat pan. I remember the original being of a thin foam rubber type. Jack Staggs had recommended using bicycle inner tube as a stand in replacement. Sounded like the perfect answer and I was going to go with that idea until I had a look under this car where the restorers had used that very material. This car was only recently assembled with no exposure to the elements or even engine heat but the inner tube was already cracking. I was now back in search for another material to use. I was back looking into a durable foam rubber type sheathing. I figured out my minimum ID and went hunting. After several dead ends I found what I was looking for in these foam rubber grips for mountain bike handle bars. The ID was perfect though the wall thickness was slightly heavier than what I remember the original stuff being. Other than that I had my answer; foam rubber and most definitely on the durable side being for handle bar use. Prepping for installation: shaved the OD down a bit on one end for an insertion into the conduit existing the tunnel. Passing the harness through. Again the ID was the perfect size for the wire leads. The being for handlebars they were precut to length making me a little short on the overall length needed to cover the run in one piece. A problem soon turned into an advantage as I decided to place the joint in between the two starter leads that need to exit mid point out of the sides of the sheath. Making the exit hole for the first lead just ahead of the joint here. Those starter leads exit in opposite directions so having the ability to slide those out the sides first then pushing this joint together after the fact made much easier and cleaner on the sheath versus trying to fish the ends out as a one piece covering. This material just loves super glue so no worries about this joint opening back up in the future. Joint glued making this run all ready for final installation. That shaved down end inserted into the conduit. Securing this end always seemed a bit iffy at best. I bought this shrink collar in hopes of bridging these that junction securely.
Wire harness weather sheathing under rear seat pan: I was looking for a replacement protective sheathing for the harness run under the rear seat pan. I remember the original being of a thin foam rubber type. Jack Staggs had recommended using bicycle inner tube as a stand in replacement. Sounded like the perfect answer and I was going to go with that idea until I had a look under this car where the restorers had used that very material. This car was only recently assembled with no exposure to the elements or even engine heat but the inner tube was already cracking. I was now back in search for another material to use. I was back looking into a durable foam rubber type sheathing. I figured out my minimum ID and went hunting. After several dead ends I found what I was looking for in these foam rubber grips for mountain bike handle bars. The ID was perfect though the wall thickness was slightly heavier than what I remember the original stuff being. Other than that I had my answer; foam rubber and most definitely on the durable side being for handle bar use. Prepping for installation: shaved the OD down a bit on one end for an insertion into the conduit existing the tunnel. Passing the harness through. Again the ID was the perfect size for the wire leads. The being for handlebars they were precut to length making me a little short on the overall length needed to cover the run in one piece. A problem soon turned into an advantage as I decided to place the joint in between the two starter leads that need to exit mid point out of the sides of the sheath. Making the exit hole for the first lead just ahead of the joint here. Those starter leads exit in opposite directions so having the ability to slide those out the sides first then pushing this joint together after the fact made much easier and cleaner on the sheath versus trying to fish the ends out as a one piece covering. This material just loves super glue so no worries about this joint opening back up in the future. Joint glued making this run all ready for final installation. That shaved down end inserted into the conduit. Securing this end always seemed a bit iffy at best. I bought this shrink collar in hopes of bridging these that junction securely.
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Re: Trying to finish Carrera coupe 58367 before I die!
part 2:
Conclusion I put my heat gun on it but I was limited as to the amount of heat I could throw at it for fear of ruining and blistering the sheath. I ended up taping the joint as I remember it being when I first pulled the harness out. I may follow up with a zip tie later once I cut that collar off. Anyway moving on for now. The rest of the run now fully tab locked into position. Went ahead and taped the tang leads just to make a life a little easier on that foam covering. The entire run feels firm , secure and well insulated. The additional wall thickness secures the tubes end at the entrance into the engine compartment. Couldn't have been happier with the final result. Material is close to what was there originally and thoroughly insulates the new harness. Best 20 bucks I ever spent. Getting that section out of the way allowed me to finally run the rest of the harness through the engine compartment.
Onto the next deal, Thanks for looking.
Justin
Conclusion I put my heat gun on it but I was limited as to the amount of heat I could throw at it for fear of ruining and blistering the sheath. I ended up taping the joint as I remember it being when I first pulled the harness out. I may follow up with a zip tie later once I cut that collar off. Anyway moving on for now. The rest of the run now fully tab locked into position. Went ahead and taped the tang leads just to make a life a little easier on that foam covering. The entire run feels firm , secure and well insulated. The additional wall thickness secures the tubes end at the entrance into the engine compartment. Couldn't have been happier with the final result. Material is close to what was there originally and thoroughly insulates the new harness. Best 20 bucks I ever spent. Getting that section out of the way allowed me to finally run the rest of the harness through the engine compartment.
Onto the next deal, Thanks for looking.
Justin