The Official 356Talk Forum

It drives and brakes!
Finished re-routing the washer system with the one outlet foot pump,
Rewired the left headlight/blinker/horn after changing the fender/headlight support,
Put in the new glovebox with a new strap,
Refitted the driver seat after finishing under dash work,
Changed the dead blinker relay,
....And it is too cold to wash it. I still drove it on the ramp for some outside pics.
After that I adjusted the rear lid, that is better but not perfect.
Still tons of things to do, but it drives. First time in 15 years.

Congratulations, George. Beautiful car, great milestone.

George,
Thank you for sharing your journey. Your garage is as tidy and organized as your car.
In one of your earliest posts you mention lighting is a priority. A satisfying and simple project for me was replacing as many of my bulbs as possible with led lighting. This served twin purposes; the brighter lights allows my tail lights to be seen and the reduced wattage reduced the draw on the battery.
Have a great day and wave in the direction of Davos for me. My youngest daughter lives there.

Thank you guys for the encouraging words.
The car will never be concours, but driveable safely and with loads of fun.
Good advice on the leds, Dennis. I will look into it. I also have a 3rd brake light planned under teh engine lid grille, after the inspection. I should be in Davos in march for a week at a convention.

I need the forum's knowledge:
I am re-building the heating cables/flaps, that were all wrong. I straightened the rods and refitted them, with smooth action and no binding.

What I don't have is reference for the command cables (wires) where they exit the sheath under the engine, by the flap commands.

Anyone have a specific picture of the sheaths' ends by the exchanger flaps?

This might help you but someone may have a better picture as this is deep in the nether regions where the Loch Ness Monster lives

Excellent! Thank you.
There is a sheath in the parts list that seems to go around the steel wire, which is not on your pictures.
Any clue as to where it goes?

On my C #14 and #15 go on as it leaves the tunnel. Not sure if true for an A also: https://www.stoddard.com/porsche-356/po ... ystem.html #14 goes over lip where it comes out of tunnel then #15 over #14 But I am unsure that this is correct for an A. I will lask David Jones to chime in as he has Both A and C cars This picture of an A on BAT has the sheath like my C:

If you have Neil Goldberg's 356A book it might show it. https://blocks-books.com/BLOCKS-BOOKS/9 ... 166_1.html

I do have Neil Goldberg's book. It does not show how the sheath ends. Mechanically you'd want a hard stop to the sheath to allow for positive action on the lever , like a bike brake cable sheath.

No hard stop on a C but length is fixed by where it attaches onto #14

It is used on all models I believe along with a rubber boot to mate it on the chassis stub. It is just to protect the cable probably in a vain attempt to stop it rusting.
By the way George the rods are not supposed to be straight they have a bend so as to make them align correctly with the valve levers. Check the factory manual for alignment information.

Items 15 and 16 this page.
https://www.stoddard.com/porsche-356/ca ... ables.html

OK, it starts to make sense. Thanks to all.
David, I have seen the bends and I understand why they are there. My rods were bent ant twisted in all directions. I straightened them and they will *not* work without some strategic bends to allow for smooth movement.
Now waiting on parts to finish the heating setup.

Door seals:
I have received a bunch of seals to change and /or fit (quite a few were missing), and one is stumping me. First picture below.

The other seal that raises a question is the large flat seal that goes on the front and rear edge of the door inner panel, 2nd picture below. It has a fold, that I can not tell whether it goes towars the door or against the door opening seal. Anyone?

Really cool project and a wonderful car!

Antoine