Porsche 356C Brakes

[Eric McKinley]

Yes, David i know exactly where you mean.

Thank you again for your help,

[Eric McKinley]

I will do that Geoff, thank you also for the pointer.

[Martin Benade]

The whole setup is a Bowden cable. I presume David means to adjust the housing instead of the cable.

[David Jones]

Correct Martin. Fortunately Eric was smart enough to realize what I meant. We are closely related, the Irish are the Welsh who were able to swim to get away from the English. I come from a long line of ancestors with very negative buoyancy.

[Martin Benade]

I can therefore relate to you. I have been called dense.

[Eric McKinley]

I have adjusted the cable as Geoff and David suggested, everything now works perfectly, no more grinding going into gear.

I also fitted the camber regulator, again no issues at all, it needed the car to be over a pit and all wheels on the ground to allow the bar to be fitted.

[Tom Tate]

Great job Eric, you've recreated a terrific car there and increased our knowledge along the way. Nice to see the kind of support that our Club was meant to provide. KTF

[Jim Hohensee]

Eric, Suggest you check the limit stop for clutch pedal travel if you haven't already done so. Check by limiting downward travel till you can just engage reverse without grinding. This prevents over flexing of the pressure plate.
Great car and keep up the good work!

[Eric McKinley]

Thanks Tom, thats very kind, however in fairness I picked the brains of a number of more experienced 356 owners on this registry which without their knowledge and help I would have found the restoration a lot more difficult, I am glad the questions that I have asked during my posts can help others during their journey.

I will definitely do that Jim, I did not think about setting the limit stop for reverse.

[Eric McKinley]

I took the car out today for about a 2 hour drive, I was expecting to see some oil on the left side of the engine bay when I got home, but nothing, a bit confusing,I will keep an eye on it.

One thing I did notice, the car excels at speed, up and down the gears drives really well, however it does not like traffic, in low gears crawling along it revs at about 1.6 on the rev counter, quite a few pops from the exhaust, it is one of the vintage speed sebring style exhausts, I like the look.

Would I be right in saying that the carbs need balances to address this, or is there anything else I should be looking at, should the revs be sitting at about 1.0 in traffic.

[David Jones]

Please clarify Eric, in traffic at idle it runs at 1600 rpm? You need to do a tune up when the engine is hot, could be the distributor is the issue. What is the max advance set at?

[Eric McKinley]

Hi David, yes, it was sitting at 1600rpm at idle in traffic, I am not sure what the advance is set at, Paul at PRS built the engine and I have not moved anything around from his settings when I collected the engine, is there a particular way of checking, I could give Paul a call on Monday to ask.

[David Jones]

Eric you may want to start a new thread as you have strayed somewhat from the brakes. But to reply I think the time has come to buy a timing light and a synchrometer because you cannot sent he engine back to Paul for a tune up.
This is a good one, I have two.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Innova-3568-Di ... 954&sr=8-7
Synchrometer is here.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/STE-Synchromet ... 037&sr=8-2
If you try to reduce the idle at the carbs without knowing the air flow you will end up unbalancing the carbs.

[Eric McKinley]

David thank you for the reply, I bought this synchro a while back, I had to order the rubber part which is attached as the one on the right did not create a seal around the solexs.

I need to get a timing light and then learn how to use both.

[Doug McDonnell]

Franny does a pretty good job showing carb tuning after she rebuilds the carbs here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70dTCwNfQoM&t=15s My 1st thought though would be distributor needing a rebuild. Especially if the idle sometimes drops from 1600 to 1000 or 800