Bob’s 356A project

[robert moglia]

Wurth underbody seal / schutz.
So far 6 cans probably end up using 8

[Mark Dinsdale]

Looking good, you are a few weeks ahead of me. How did you find the under seal went on, any issues?

I’m trying to decide what product to use and apply in two weeks if the weather holds.

Mark

[robert moglia]

I’ve used the Wurth product before on the 911, it goes on very nice with great coverage and has a subtle texture. No experience with anything else, but I considered the 3M product too.

[robert moglia]

Did some lead work today, boy am I rusty!

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Gaps are good.

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Cleaned and sanded with 80g

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Paste solder flux applied.

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Tinned with propane torch.

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Lead applied, this was a PITA on a vertical surface.

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Rough filed, not too bad some minor low spots but I was planning on plastic filler topcoat regardless.
Now that I got it figured out (again!) it should go a bit quicker.

[Harlan Halsey]

In making the door gaps, if you don't install the window frame in the door and watch the gap, frame to pillar, you may end up where you can't get the frame where you want it. (The frame will only adjust back and forward in the door so far.) Also on closing, the inner door must clear not only the hinge mount, but the Aluminum hinge cover plate with the riveted placards as well. If it doesn't, when doing the interior, it is too late to move the door back to clear. Also the door position is best set with the rubber seal in place. Otherwise the door may not shut to line up with the upholstry in place. I know it is hard to think that far down the road when you are focused on welding and hammering.

In my opinion, modern bondo and Maren Tex epoxy have completely replaced lead filler. (Finding rust under factory lead is not uncommon I've been told.)

[robert moglia]

Thanks for the good fitting advice Harlan.
I don’t disagree about polyester fillers being good, but I like the originality of lead. Since I’m not in the restoration business where time is money, I don’t mind the hassles of working with lead. I am careful about neutralizing the acid flux quite thoroughly.

[Harlan Halsey]

Robert, we each tend to use the tools we are familiar with. Lead was used by Porsche because the polyester fillers of the time had their teething problems, but more importantly because no polyester filler is tough enough for use as an edge. As in the front edge of the door. Porsche made the panel gaps of lead. However today there are filled two part epoxys which are as tough as lead and can serve where Porsche body suppliers used lead. These epoxies are much more difficult to final shape, but they can be added to if necessary. Rather than final finish the epoxy, I do that with the polyester. But then I am familiar with fiberglass car bodies. Good Luck with your project.

[robert moglia]

Well it’s been a while since I got to work on the A.
Did some traveling, and home improvement projects.
Happy wife happy life!
But spring is almost here in NY and I went down to the barn and started organizing.
I didn’t get very far with the lead work and may switch to polyester filler for sanity’s sake. If I go that route then I should be in primer before summer.
Started to assemble the doors, cleaning hardware and other small time wasters.
QUESTION: how is the window frame mounted?
My car was disassembled by PO and is in boxes and bags.
I found some of the original frame to door mounts and purchased the ones missing. I know they are secured with a variety of m6 bolts but have no idea of exact placement.
Can somebody provide a picture from the inside of their door showing the orientation of the brackets?
Thanks!

[Justin Rio]

Hey Bob, Great to hear you're going to get back after it. Here is how those footings attach to the door frame.

HTH

Justin

[robert moglia]

Perfect! I figured the angle on the bottom of the bracket matched the slope of the door bottom. The only diagrams available are of vent window frames. Still have those rubber stamps for the relays if you need them.

[robert moglia]

Just a quick post to show I’m still at it.
I got out the propane torch and lead solder.
The rear quarter to sill seam came out well.
Rough door gap looks good, should be nice once shaped.

Also set up my old Caswell zinc plating kit.
Trying to work from multiple angles.

[Ray Fuenzalida]

I think your work is fantastic. And inspirational.
Will hopefully be picking up my project soon.
Abandoned and in a junk yard. Just as bad off as yours was.
But just like you, couldn't resist.
When I get it home, will start my documentation as well.
Keep the info flowing.

[robert moglia]

Thanks for your words of encouragement Ray, much appreciated!
You’ll find all the information you need right here on the forum.
Post some pictures when you get it.
Finally warmed up a bit so the lead work continues.
Set the gap on the drivers side, next up sill gap. I want to sharpen the edge a bit as the available pressings are too rounded, I’m looking for crisp!

[robert moglia]

Finally some warms days after 2 weeks of rain,
So back to work.
Front door edges to set gaps.
Notations to aid lead buildup.

So I’m wondering if I set the gap at 3 mm would it then be too small after paint? Logic says so.
Maybe I should set gap at 3.5mm?
Any one with experience or opinions?

[Justin Rio]

Hey Bob, Building up enough well formed material on that leading door edge is tough. Here is link to how I managed it a few years ago.

viewtopic.php?t=20416&start=210

You might find something of use there? If you want to end up with 3MM gaps give yourself at least a MM head start. Paint and sealer thickness add up very quickly.

Keep up the great progress.

Justin