WCSTA -06- 56 T1
- Bill Sargent
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 1147
- Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:03 am
- Tag: Faux-Cam
- Location: Seattle, Washington
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Nicely done Harlan!
Regards,
Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works
Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works
- Harlan Halsey
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2375
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:05 pm
- Location: No Cal SF Peninsula
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Thank you. If it survives infant mortality-maybe 3-500 miles-that project is put to bed.
- Harlan Halsey
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2375
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:05 pm
- Location: No Cal SF Peninsula
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Well...as of the last post, I was in an escalating disaster: Oil on the floor due to the axel leak, the modified voltage regulator failed, the transmission was noisy, the engine was installed off center, the exhaust pipes touched the body work, and the clutch chattered badly. It was time for a reset!
So as of today, the car runs well: I swapped in the original (rebuilt) 644 trans mission with a T2 shift lever location, modified the right side engine compartment plate and centered the engine by re-bending the hoop, and rebuilt the voltage regulator with a new same part number solid state unit. I tuned the engine and adjusted the valves on the test stand. The 644 transmission changes the engine angle enough to give ample clearance for the muffler and the tail pipes. So: no leaks, no engine noise, voltage regulator works, and the transmission shifts well and is quiet. Clutch cable is now a 644 (long) one replacing the previous 744 cable.
I ran the car out to 92 and back along the Crystal Springs Reservoir today. I looks like I am where I thought I was back in February.
So as of today, the car runs well: I swapped in the original (rebuilt) 644 trans mission with a T2 shift lever location, modified the right side engine compartment plate and centered the engine by re-bending the hoop, and rebuilt the voltage regulator with a new same part number solid state unit. I tuned the engine and adjusted the valves on the test stand. The 644 transmission changes the engine angle enough to give ample clearance for the muffler and the tail pipes. So: no leaks, no engine noise, voltage regulator works, and the transmission shifts well and is quiet. Clutch cable is now a 644 (long) one replacing the previous 744 cable.
I ran the car out to 92 and back along the Crystal Springs Reservoir today. I looks like I am where I thought I was back in February.
- Harlan Halsey
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2375
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:05 pm
- Location: No Cal SF Peninsula
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Way back when, before even the floor pans had been installed, I traced the floorboards on to some 5 layer plywood and roughly cut out he key holes and the outline. Now it was time to finish the floor boards. A 2" cylindrical rasp in the drill press turned out to be just the thing to finish the keyholes after the first trial fit. I measaured for the locations of the other holes, drilled undersize. fit and then sized the holes in the right place. I had some polyurethane left over from another job and I put three coats of that on. Floor boards make the interior look a lot more finished.
Since the floor boards will be completely covered, I don't think I will paint them black.
Since the floor boards will be completely covered, I don't think I will paint them black.
- Harlan Halsey
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2375
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:05 pm
- Location: No Cal SF Peninsula
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Test driving these days, I have about 200 miles on the car now and things are coming along, clutch, shifter, speedometer swapped for one that works.
I'm using a T2 shift rod. The shifter is moved to the T2 position via a mounting plate which looks like the factory item to the shifter but is longer to pick up rearward mounts. The gearshift knob sat outside for many years years and I thought it was gone but a few coats of Wood repair epoxy did wonders.
I'm recording the speed and RPMs to see what gear ratios I have in this 644 transmission. BBBC it turns out. This is easier than counting engine and wheel turns directly.
I have been gradually moving the shift point up and now shift at 4,000 RPM So far so good.
I'm using a T2 shift rod. The shifter is moved to the T2 position via a mounting plate which looks like the factory item to the shifter but is longer to pick up rearward mounts. The gearshift knob sat outside for many years years and I thought it was gone but a few coats of Wood repair epoxy did wonders.
I'm recording the speed and RPMs to see what gear ratios I have in this 644 transmission. BBBC it turns out. This is easier than counting engine and wheel turns directly.
I have been gradually moving the shift point up and now shift at 4,000 RPM So far so good.
-
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 338
- Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:14 pm
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Hey Harlan I am considering having the same modifications (using T-2 internals) made on a set of Pre A ,t-1 square door handles did you do machine work or have it done. Do you have dimensions of machined parts or know who I can have machine necessary parts?
Thanks
Michael Foster
mfoster356@yahoo.com
714 235 6814
Thanks
Michael Foster
mfoster356@yahoo.com
714 235 6814
MICHAEL FOSTER
- Harlan Halsey
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2375
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:05 pm
- Location: No Cal SF Peninsula
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Michael,
I did the design and machining myself. It' easy with a lathe and a milling machine, and pretty obvious if you have both types of handles. it is easier to machine a brass piece than to take the end off the late handle. I may have recorded he dimensions, but basically you just make the early handle like the late handle and use a stepped joint JB Welded together. You can fool with the amount you want the button to stick out. I thought the original late style is too high. Post #69 above pictures and explains everything.
I did the design and machining myself. It' easy with a lathe and a milling machine, and pretty obvious if you have both types of handles. it is easier to machine a brass piece than to take the end off the late handle. I may have recorded he dimensions, but basically you just make the early handle like the late handle and use a stepped joint JB Welded together. You can fool with the amount you want the button to stick out. I thought the original late style is too high. Post #69 above pictures and explains everything.
-
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 338
- Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:14 pm
- Harlan Halsey
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2375
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:05 pm
- Location: No Cal SF Peninsula
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
We're getting there. Bumpers with decos installed, Paint rubbed out by Del.
Windshield wipers, sun visors, interior door panels, tunnel carpeting, and tail pipes yet to go. Torsion bar covers await final setting the rear camber
At his point, 300 miles on the car, time for the first oil change: 20W 50 SWEPCOWindshield wipers, sun visors, interior door panels, tunnel carpeting, and tail pipes yet to go. Torsion bar covers await final setting the rear camber
- Trond Vidar
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 352
- Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:28 am
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
I am envious. The car is looking great, it is begging to drive and the location seem to be spot on.
'56A coupe & '63B coupe
- Harlan Halsey
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2375
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:05 pm
- Location: No Cal SF Peninsula
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Thank you Trond,
The Crystal Springs Reservoir is just North of our house So I either loop it to the west or come back on the Freeway to the east for about a 45 minute 25 mile run. Going out the route has some stopping with shifting an accelerating which is what I want for break in. There's also a 50 mile round trip freeway run I make once a week for lunch at a good hamburger place, Kirks, with Del's group of 356ers. To date about 450 shake down miles on the car. Rear camber needs to be changed from slightly positive to my preferred 1/2 deg. negative.
The Crystal Springs Reservoir is just North of our house So I either loop it to the west or come back on the Freeway to the east for about a 45 minute 25 mile run. Going out the route has some stopping with shifting an accelerating which is what I want for break in. There's also a 50 mile round trip freeway run I make once a week for lunch at a good hamburger place, Kirks, with Del's group of 356ers. To date about 450 shake down miles on the car. Rear camber needs to be changed from slightly positive to my preferred 1/2 deg. negative.
- Trond Vidar
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 352
- Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:28 am
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Envious, I always wanted to live in the Bay Area. My first visit was back in 1997. I was on training at a software house in San Jose and time off looking at cars, close to departure even a MG TA in Orinda, it was too tight, went back to the hotel, called a dude in Oregon and closed the deal on his 1961 XKE that we had been discussing for weeks. Still got the jag it’s not leaving soon!
Hope to visit CA next year I hope the crabs at fisherman’s wharf is as delicious as back then.
Hope to visit CA next year I hope the crabs at fisherman’s wharf is as delicious as back then.
'56A coupe & '63B coupe
- Harlan Halsey
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2375
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:05 pm
- Location: No Cal SF Peninsula
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Window Winder.
The right window crank was beyond saving. These are the grooved version used before 1957, and hard to find. I think they are actually VW parts, as are the later smooth cranks used through the end of 356 production. I found 2 aftermarket winders without knobs at a big VW swap meet for $ 15 each. And from somewhere I found a black knob of the right dimensions, threaded 6mm, no set screw. (I'm disinclined to disassemble one of the smooth cranks to find out exactly how it was done.)
The hole in the grooved crank was less than 6mm. Plan A was to modify a shouldered 6mm bolt and then peen the end as original. This is on the left. But then plan B occurred to me: Drill out the hole in the crank to fit the bare section of the 6mm bolt, modify the bolt head, and screw the knob in from the back. Much easier. The plan B bolt is on the right. The white knob is Rustoleum Antique White.
The right window crank was beyond saving. These are the grooved version used before 1957, and hard to find. I think they are actually VW parts, as are the later smooth cranks used through the end of 356 production. I found 2 aftermarket winders without knobs at a big VW swap meet for $ 15 each. And from somewhere I found a black knob of the right dimensions, threaded 6mm, no set screw. (I'm disinclined to disassemble one of the smooth cranks to find out exactly how it was done.)
The hole in the grooved crank was less than 6mm. Plan A was to modify a shouldered 6mm bolt and then peen the end as original. This is on the left. But then plan B occurred to me: Drill out the hole in the crank to fit the bare section of the 6mm bolt, modify the bolt head, and screw the knob in from the back. Much easier. The plan B bolt is on the right. The white knob is Rustoleum Antique White.
- Jules Dielen
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 3206
- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2008 3:25 pm
- Location: Arizona
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Gorgeous car Harlan! Incredible transformation!!
Jules
Water pumps are for windshield washers only.
Water pumps are for windshield washers only.
- Harlan Halsey
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2375
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:05 pm
- Location: No Cal SF Peninsula
Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1
Thank you. I'm pretty sure that the three of us, + the Porsche community, have "saved" this one.