WCSTA -06- 56 T1

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Harlan Halsey
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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#76 Post by Harlan Halsey » Wed Apr 01, 2020 2:36 am

About the last thing to do at the rear of the car is to complete the fuel system. The plan is to duplicate the Carrera set up: fuel pressure regulator on the fire wall fed by an electric pump mounted on the torsion bar tubes. Instead of the troublesome Autopulse pumps, I substituted my old favorite, the Bendix now made by Facit and avilable through Aircraft Spruce.
IMG_0370 Fuel Pump Mount.jpg
IMG_0370 Fuel Pump Mount.jpg (1.11 MiB) Viewed 2291 times
Original fuel pressure regulators have been difficult to find for years so naturally, there's a reproduction out there and naturally it's expensive. Fortunately, Bill Sargent on this talk line suggested I look into a modern Italian made unit which is about the same as the original for a reaonable $60.
IMG_0428 Carrera Fuel Line.jpg
IMG_0428 Carrera Fuel Line.jpg (989.67 KiB) Viewed 2291 times

Routing the fuel line turned out to be complicated, but in the end, it all came out OK. Aside from the tricky bends, the problem was that the line had to go through the pushrod engine plate, as well as the firewall flange, if I were to begin with the pushrod engine as is the intention. That meant two passages at right angle in close proximity. In the event I was able to make the holes with my new 1/2" hole saw and rubber bush them. Getting the pushrod engine plates out and in us always a challenge, as though they are bolted in on A cars, thet are not really meant to come in and out easily.
So now with the addition of the flexible lines the fuel system is nearly done.
Last edited by Harlan Halsey on Sat Feb 13, 2021 4:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#77 Post by Harlan Halsey » Tue Apr 28, 2020 10:37 pm

The fuel system is complete except for the long flexible line from the tunnel to the engine, or in this case to the engine compartment fuel line:

The elbows I found were 1/4" barb which seemed a bit loose, so I modified them with at bit of steel fuel line:
IMG_0459 1 8 pipe elbows.jpg
IMG_0459 1 8 pipe elbows.jpg (1.4 MiB) Viewed 2243 times
The original Carrera fuel lines are 2 piece, but one piece would be better.
IMG_0442 Front Fuel Lines.jpg
IMG_0442 Front Fuel Lines.jpg (1.71 MiB) Viewed 2243 times
Altogether, including modifying the wiring harness.
IMG_0461 Fuel Pump.jpg
IMG_0461 Fuel Pump.jpg (1.67 MiB) Viewed 2243 times
This is the tunnel connection.
IMG_0448 Central L.jpg
IMG_0448 Central L.jpg (1018.37 KiB) Viewed 2243 times
The blue fuel line is Bing alcohol resistant fuel line from Airccraft Spruce which has the characteristic that it does not relax tension over time meaning hose clamps are not needed.
Last edited by Harlan Halsey on Mon Feb 28, 2022 5:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#78 Post by Harlan Halsey » Sat May 16, 2020 4:59 am

Back to the wiring: This is a 6v to 12v conversion. Starter, generator and voltage regulator are straight forward, just use 12v components. But the under the dash circuits are diffferent. 12v components were avalable, but I have the original 6v fuel gage, temperature gage, and headlight flasher relay and horn relay. The exterior lights (and the interior lights just require a bulbe change, except for a 12v turn signal flasher unit from Stoddard. The simple way to convert the instruments and relays is just to use a voltage divider and run them on 7.5v. The relays coils are seperate from the control points, so for these I just energize the coils from the 7.7v bus and switch the 12v light or horn current.
A droping resistor is the easy way to drop the voltage but this wastes half the power and more importantly, generates heat. However Polous makes a switching voltage divider which will output up to 4A at 7.5 v from any input voltage near 12v at over 90% efficency. 4A is ample to run anything except the wiper motor or the horns. I may just use droping resistors for these as their usage is low.
The horn relay worked as it should judging by the resistance of the coil and switched terminals, but the light relay required disassembly and attention to the contacts, just as you would to ignition points.

IMG_0471 56 Relays in Place.jpg
IMG_0471 56 Relays in Place.jpg (1.61 MiB) Viewed 2206 times

The red/black stripe wire is the new 7.5v source, the relays are energized by grounding the other end of the coil through the steeering wheel hub contacts. The switched circuits remain the same only they are now 12v.

The voltage divider unit is small, only 1" square

IMG_0487 4A 12 to 7.5.jpg
IMG_0487 4A 12 to 7.5.jpg (1.67 MiB) Viewed 2206 times

JB weld will provide strain relief.

IMG_0489 4A 12 to 7.5 side.jpg
IMG_0489 4A 12 to 7.5 side.jpg (1.21 MiB) Viewed 2206 times

With this change the wiring is complete. I have ordered SMD headlights which I hope will reduce the current draw to something reasonable for the original wiring and light switch to handle. If not relays in the headlight buckets are always an option.

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#79 Post by Harlan Halsey » Wed May 20, 2020 10:50 am

I am about to put oil in the transmission. This 741 transmission was running in the Carrera when I bought it and I replaced it with a 716. I think it is good but I won't really know until I drive it a bit. However, my 5 gal bucket of Chevron RPM 80W 90 is about empty. I'd just get another but Chevron now makes a Delo 80W 90 which looks like the best alternative. I use SWEPCO 201 in other cars including the Lotus with the ZF, but I have never used it in 356 transmissions. After so many years of success with the Chevron dinosaur oil, I'd kind of like to stick with it in the 356s. The transmission oil must both protect the R & P and work with the Porsche synchronizers. The question is, what is informed opinion on 356 transmission oil these days?
Last edited by Harlan Halsey on Mon Feb 28, 2022 5:31 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#80 Post by Doug McDonnell » Wed May 20, 2020 11:44 am

From a post by Vic just a couple of years ago " Re: Gear Oil Shopping
#4 Post by Vic Skirmants » Fri Dec 14, 2018 3:21 pm

I've been telling people for years; any good brand 80/90. I have recommended Valvoline more than once."
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Harlan Halsey
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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#81 Post by Harlan Halsey » Mon Jul 06, 2020 1:36 am

Engine is in the car although not without some difficulty. For some reason I had a 644 type pressure plate which of course won't go past the guide tube. A 741 type without the throwout bearing ring fixed the problem. Today's progress was finishing the wiring of the voltage regulator. The Y n Z's harness needed shortening and new ends.

This is the Hi tech version"
IMG_0519 12v reg in '56.jpg
IMG_0519 12v reg in '56.jpg (1001.98 KiB) Viewed 2058 times
This is the mod which makes it look old.
IMG_0522 12v conversion.jpg
IMG_0522 12v conversion.jpg (1.27 MiB) Viewed 2058 times

I had the muffler, which I built copying C internals, ceramic coated locally. It fit right on. I ran the engine with that muffler on my test stand a month ago.

Next job is aligning the car. The engine is about 1/4" to the right of center of the engine compartment. I can fix that with the hoop, but alignment measurements first.

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#82 Post by Harlan Halsey » Wed Jul 08, 2020 1:57 am

Picture of the engine installation. The rear lower sheet metal needs to be at least 31" high for the engine on the dolly to clear. Hence the lift rig.
IMG_0502 56 Engine Install.jpg
IMG_0502 56 Engine Install.jpg (1.4 MiB) Viewed 2027 times
Enough of balancing the car on the floor jack under the hoop to get the engine into the bay. To install the engine, I lower the car onto jack stands placed under the spring plate torsion bar extensions, then lift the engine on the dolly with the floor jack. The floor jack just slides under the dolly. There are lots of ways of doing this, but without a lift, this is it.

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#83 Post by Eric Lenius » Wed Jul 08, 2020 1:48 pm

I see Fisher Hi-Fi gear in the garage system!

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#84 Post by Harlan Halsey » Thu Jul 09, 2020 3:57 am

Sharp eyes!
Yes, I bought that stuff back when it was current. Works fine. The shelf below has paper workshop manuals and they still work well too.
IMG_0535 Bench Shelf 2020.jpg
IMG_0535 Bench Shelf 2020.jpg (1.79 MiB) Viewed 1920 times
The Speakers don't do justice to the electronics, the originals, AR2s. are still doing duty in the living room
Last edited by Harlan Halsey on Sun Jul 19, 2020 5:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#85 Post by Harlan Halsey » Sat Jul 11, 2020 7:59 pm

Engine compartment fuel lines are done. I decided to change the regulator output to better route the fuel line.There's just enough room to use a 10 mm banjo bolt, so I machined one and made the corresponding banjo. Machining the inside of the 10mm banjo was going to be a problem so I made the outside 12 mm.
Fuel P Reg.jpg
Fuel P Reg.jpg (1.56 MiB) Viewed 1985 times

The whole thing now looks like this. I'll probably zinc plate the brass.
IMG_0531 56 Engine Compatrment.jpg
IMG_0531 56 Engine Compatrment.jpg (1.17 MiB) Viewed 1985 times

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#86 Post by neilbardsley » Thu Jul 16, 2020 2:42 am

Engine back in! Congratulations.

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#87 Post by Eric Lenius » Thu Jul 16, 2020 9:58 am

Harlan Halsey wrote:
Thu Jul 09, 2020 3:57 am
Sharp eyes!
Yes, I bought that stuff back when it was current. Works fine. The shelf below has paper workshop manuals and they still work well too.
At this point, only a nut like me would recognize the brand of hi-fi gear from an oblique angle like that ! Engine looks great!

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#88 Post by Harlan Halsey » Fri Jul 17, 2020 7:25 pm

The door handle modification (Post #69) is finished: I he idea was to substitute T2 and later internals in the T1 square handles. I finally recieved new T2 lock recievers from Stoddard and new locks. Refurbishng the old corroded T2 parts was a bridge too far.
The last step was to machine the lock slot in the T1 handles:
IMG_0532 Milling Lock Slot.jpg
IMG_0532 Milling Lock Slot.jpg (1.45 MiB) Viewed 1936 times
The original slot is about 2.5mm wide, I have a carbide 1/8" end mill. What count is that the inside of the slot is in the right position to hold the pushbutton out.

I glued the brass end piece in place with Loctite 660 and adjusted the length of the push pin for the T1 door thickness. This is the whole assembly:
IMG_0533 Assembly.jpg
IMG_0533 Assembly.jpg (1.96 MiB) Viewed 1936 times
And the handle installed.
IMG_0534 Mod Handle Installed.jpg
IMG_0534 Mod Handle Installed.jpg (863.91 KiB) Viewed 1936 times
Dry fit the right door handle, adjust the pin length, install and I'm done.

Since finishing the T1 door handles, I took a look at the T2 handles on the other cars. The push button seems un-necessarily tall on all of these. The height of T2 pushbuttons can be adjusted too, by milling the lock slot lower, and adding a spacer under the E-clip. Low drag door handles.

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#89 Post by Eric Lenius » Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:37 am

Thanks for adding the pics of the garage system! Looks like maybe a FM-100B tuner (or maybe a KM-60 if you built a kit). It is amazing how expensive FM tuners were in the 60s. For that matter, the radios for our cars! Old school VOM on the shelf too (260?). Handle looks great!

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Re: WCSTA -06- 56 T1

#90 Post by Harlan Halsey » Fri Jul 24, 2020 6:14 am

Thank you. FM100B. I have a dipole strung up in the joists.
Yes that is a 260. I usually don't keep the D cell in it.
The rest of the stuff is Fluke, including a clip on current meter good for tracking and measuring small current leaks. But the analogue meter has its advantages, and that one is a nice tool. I got it in the 60's when I lived in Boston..

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