1956 356 "GT"

[Trond Vidar]

Yes Vic, it's not far off position I had with the "oem" VW box and they both have "dummy proof" spline setup but I will measure toe at max left and max right turn to see if the position is equal.

[Trond Vidar]

Did not check the toe at max turn but I used a turntable with marking on and it does looks to be fine, the angle at max turn is similar on left and right side. The red crimp connector is just placed to verify the turntable does not move.

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[M Penta]

Very nice car, congrats on the first drive. And I like your new tennant!

[Harlan Halsey]

Porsche had a non adjustable short tie rod with the VW gear boxes. They also had one "bent" tie rod end at the inner end of the short tie rod , the other three are the usual straight ends. VW used a smaller tapered connection than did the later B spindles a lot of us substitute. For example on my '56 I have the smaller tapers at the gearbox and the larger ones at the wheel. It is easy to make up tie rods by cutting and welding, keeping track of the RH and LH threads. I have both tie rods adjustable for ease of adjustment. Stoddard sells the "bent" rod end.

[Trond Vidar]

Thanks for chiming in Harlan, my car does also run small tie rod ends on box and large ends on the knuckels now.

When I got the car knuckles where bent and I replaced a them somewhere during this project. I also had to replace my non adjustable short tie rod with a new, only Porsche had that replacement and it was quite expensive but the new one was adjustable with the possibility to change out the ends.

My old OEM (VW) box accept large tie rod ends and it was my bad getting a plated one with holes for small ends. I also have a small stash of tie rod ends mix and match but had to use straight rod end at short rod at gearbox but would have preferred an angled one on the short tie rod, maybe I'll get one of those or even another plated pitman with large rod ends.

Thats a lot of rod!

[Juha Vane]

Here you probably could purchase one cranked tie rod end.
https://www.sandelplan-356.com/Steering_3

[Trond Vidar]

Thanks Juha, I might change it during the winter.

[Trond Vidar]

Just installed the steering damper, being a VW type to go with my new box and pitman arm it attaches differently than a 356 damper. It goes to a hole in one of the tie rod ends and it does also need to mount on the upper torsion bar tube and some 55 mm away form the tube- I studied a VW diagram and decided to move the original clamp from lower to upper tube and make an adapter so that I could use the original clamp.

VW Style


Porsche Style

3 mm flat steel iron, blasted

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Welded and painted

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Installed with good clearance in all directions.

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[Harlan Halsey]

The purpose of he steering damper is to mitigate front wheel shimmy. The dynamics of the front suspension are complex. The advise used to be: if it shimmies and has no damper, add one. If it has a damper remove it. It seems to me that front wheel shimmy was more common in the days of 80 aspect bias ply tires statically balanced.
You seem to be missing the rubber gator which goes over the hand brake pull cable.

[Juha Vane]

Perhaps you would like to use insulated connectors
at the brake light switch. Also I recommend to purchase
the correct crimp pliers. For example this are OK, I have
the previous type.
https://www.biltema.no/sokeside/?query=12-675

[Harlan Halsey]

I solder all electrical connectors. First size the connector to the wire, then solder. Then insulate with black heat shrink tubing.

[Trond Vidar]

Thanks for the advice, I usually make better connections but this was a very temporary job while restoring brakes only 4-5 years ago..
Cable job is on the list, I have an old but good Irwin de-isolator-crimper and will isolate, crimp, solder and make this connector great again.

I do have a couple of these bellows on the shelf but have not gotten around to installing yet, suppose it is the missing one?
https://www.stoddard.com/35623204.html

[Trond Vidar]

I got myself a one post lift for Christmas, cleaned out a corner in my storage and rolled the lift in place. It is like a 2 post when it come to lifting points. Used to have a 2 post but last 5 years only my 4 post and it has been great for most work. prefer the 4 post for classic cars but there are some operations that are better when lifting in the chassi.

What (chassi) lift points do you recommend for lifting a 356?

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My 914 in the new lift.

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Link to the product:
https://www.twinbusch.de/product_info.p ... cts_id=154

[David Trower]

Trond.

Doyou have a great strong engine? If not, cantact me.
Beautiful car Good luck.

David

[Trond Vidar]

Hello David, thanks and yes I do have a strong engine in the car and two in parts on the floor right now.

I did a search on the 2 post lift matter and found some good info:
Nice post with images
viewtopic.php?t=2140

https://rennlist.com/forums/356-forum/1 ... -lift.html
viewtopic.php?t=43393
https://precisionmatters.biz/jack-points.php

I will make some purpose built blocks for my 356, rubber and wood.