1956 356 "GT"

[Trond Vidar]

It's been a couple weeks waiting for carb parts, I decided to get a 123ignition distributor while waiting. Then only items that still has not showed up are the acc.pump jets, the ones I got with the carbs are too rich. I think this redline kit I bought 10 years ago did not come well jetted, changed almost everything but the auxilliary venturis now.

The 123 igniton manual did not make sense to me (led came on but not at TDC ) had to set on sight to idle and then with stroboscopic lamp at 7-8 degrees at idle. The 123 distributor give a very steady spark, have not tested the full scale yet but it climb without jumping or missing from a few tests reving the engine.

Hope to take the car out for a test run next week.

Distributor was an easy install, good spark and steady curve

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[Trond Vidar]

I just started fiddling with the '57 S engine, this current engine with a race cam may be a little more than what I want in this car and a 1720 cc Super engine may be better.

Was happy to get a set of NOS Glyco bearings for the engine but the new bearing that goes in the 3'piece does not match, what is the common sense? Just mark and drill a hole in the new bearing or put it at optimal position (max flow) and drill a new hole for the locking pin (8 mm bolt with pin that secure this bearing)?

Non matching holes

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3 piece from '57 enigne

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[Vic Skirmants]

Easiest way is simply to drill a new oil hole. I have a mill, so can machine a new locating hole with the installation slot.
Either way. The 2-piece case engines had the oil hole in that different location.

[Trond Vidar]

Thanks Vic, I'll check with a friend with machinery if he can machine the new location hole, suppose it is better to use that original hole with those inner grooves if possible.

[Trond Vidar]

I was going to do a few last touches to the electrical system, car may have a replacement loom but that one would be 20 yrs plus. Ran into some problems.

I chased a short and found the flasher wiring under dash was wrong, as soon as I put the small bulbs into instruments it was shorted, not enough to blow a 15a but blew 8a (in a 12v system). My car being a 56 it looks like I should have a 4 pin flasher relay, a 3 pin was installed sometime ago and 2 cables joined together, it has worked but not with small bulbs into instruments.

Lots of wrong connections was corrected last year but still more, took out the fusebox and cleaned it with electric cleaner and soft wire brush, found that a couple of the rivets have become loose and guess I will get a new fusebox. I see there are some expensive blade fuse replacements out there but old style is fine with me.

Also decided to enhance the wiring with relays and just ordered a bulk of relays, relay sockets and some cabling and decided to install starter and headlamp relays on both my cars. For the 63 that is 6 volt I found TEMCO "bosch style" relays on Amazon, 40A rating. For the 12 volt I got some marine relays as well, they have water proof fitment and will be fine under car (starter)

I have been holding the "relay job" for years, the 63 often need "firm" twist of the key to engage and lights could be a little brighter, installing relays I hope it will help out both the lights and the starter engagement but most of all it does not need all those Amps in the loom all the way from the switches to consumer.

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[Harlan Halsey]

1. I suspect that you can solder the loose rivit connection on the fuse box you have.
2. The better place for the starter relay is under the dash near the ignition sw.

[Trond Vidar]

Thanks Harlan, I found the repro box to around Euro 30, the smell of hot bakelite ain't the worst but I'll go for a new fusebox.
I took fuse #1 out of service and replaced with one of those inline fuse holders and 2 WAGO clamps.

OK, got it, under dash starter relay just to save the ignition switch, yes I guess that will do the job right? On this car I have a WOSP starter I think it not a big problem but the 63 needs "an upgrade".

My flasher problem is solved, I installed a 914 relay all it needed was addition of an earth wire and now we have good flashers and indicator light. I am replacing all indicator lights with 10 mm LED diodes on this car. I found 10 mm LED diodes on Amazon they come with 7-8 inches of wiring and should be fine for the flasher indicator, high beam and maybe the charge lamp and oil pressure lamp.

[Harlan Halsey]

Jules Dielen, on this site sells 12v LEDs which fit the existing sockets. That's what I use. Only an incandescent will work for the generator light because that one sees voltage 14v down to 0 and LEDS wont do that.

[Trond Vidar]

Yes looks like the generator light need be regular bulb. Already had the LED's ordered, half of the fun is the "engineering"?

The DC voltage converter gave 6.15 volts from 12.3 V's on the battery. At $21 its a good deal, rated 120W / 20A I suppose it's enough to supply all the under dash 6 volt items. I may relocate it to the bulkhead towards the fusebox but for now it's good.

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Found a low cost 6 to 12 V at 18W that I will install in my '63, it will be ideal for powering a retro DAB radio and the lighter socket for USB charging, never use it but maybe I should find a 12 V lighter for the car in case someone try to use it.

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[Trond Vidar]

Being the "drive your 356 day" I thought "Heck what can go wrong" and took the car out for a 60 km drive. It did not let me down. Finally a long enough drive to get input and finalize the list of things to do.

Steering box is not great, I have tightened it as much as possible without getting "stiff" but its just worn out. A replacement box and VW pitman arm seem to be the solution.

Gettign vibrations starting at 3K, wont go above 3500 rpm yet. Maybe a new flywheel and clutch package as a winter job or at least have the flywheel resurfaced and balanced with a new clutch package. Maybe new tranny mounts, these must be at least 25 years old. I will drive a little more and hunt for vibrations.

Jettting is still not perfect, too rich on idle to 1/4 throttle and somewhat lean on half to 3/4 throttle. I have 125 mains but will insert 135's not sure where to go on the rich low end maybe try air bypass. The engine is too hot to read sparkplugs right now but I am sure they are a little black.

On the bright side brakes and transmission are great, the electric system is finally good and engine pulls fine and no leaks.

Thats a heck of a lot shorter list than I started with.

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[Juha Vane]

Really nice color on your car.

[Trond Vidar]

Thank you Juha I got it that way, not my first choice of color but it has grown on me.

[Jason Laster]

Yes I agree with Juha. Fairly new member, but each time I see your 356 and that color it just screams beautiful and well setup.

[Trond Vidar]

Thanks Jason, doing my best!

The TRW steering box got here early this week but I did not have time to get to the job before weekend due to a new "tennant" in the garage.

Always loved the Mini and when a stalled '69 Cooper project came up I had to get it, in my garage now and nothing but positive surprises.

Sorry about this one but it's gonna be lovely!

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Over to the steering box.
The box came without a location pin and I measured the old VW box to find where to punch and drill a hole in the new one. Then drilled out a 5 mm hole just like the OEM box and used metal epoxy and a piece of a 5 mm bolt for the pin.

I measured and the original 356 passenger side tie-rod is quite a lot shorter than a VW passenger side tie rod and I think using the 356 tie rod could leave me with a little less thread than I wanted. Top of that I want a steering damper and to be able to accomplish this I had to go for the VW rod with the hole for a VW steering damper. I already had a long tie-rod assembly from VW and had to use it since the repro pitman arm only has holes for tie rod ends.

Did my best to find the center ("straight ahead") of the box and when everything put together I set up a simple string to get rough alignment on both sides and finally toe plates to get 1-2 mm toe in.

Waiting for the steering damper but just pushing the car around it feels much better on the steering.

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[Vic Skirmants]

I'm not sure about the position of the pitman arm; Not where it would be with the ZF box. But maybe correct for the VW box?