2.1-Liter Upright Fan 914 Engine Conversion

[Frederick Heiler]

I had wanted a disc-brake 356 all my adult life, and in the late-1990s, I finally bought a '65 C coupe from a good friend. I took my then-12-year-old son Tim along to see the car in North Carolina, where he was definitely bitten by the car bug. We went back several times to revive it (it had sat for four years). Long story short, we drove it 700+ miles home to NJ without incident.

We restored the car together, including rebuilding the engine. I was happy with its power, but Tim (influenced by a generation of Asian tuner cars) kept urging me to build a hotter engine. Knowing the stock 356 engine was designed only for about 1.5 liters, we finally decided to work with robust 914 architecture (originally envisioned to go to at least 2.5 liters).

I bought a well-designed upright-fan conversion kit from Raby Enterprises in Florida. I can provide lots of details, but in short, it's a black fiberglass housing that takes a Type I alternator, fan and offset oil cooler -- looks sort of like a four-cam engine, especially with SC Solex carbs and original silver air cleaners. The longer block was a tight fit, involving some trim work on several block tabs so it would clear the inside body panel during installation. Other than the Raby kit, it was an inexpensive engine to build and provides gobs of cheap, reliable power.

[Bill Sargent]

Some photos would be interesting - both of the motor and the mods you had to make to get it to fit in a 356.

[Frederick Heiler]

I tried to upload a couple of engine compartment shots, but the site said they were too large. I'm not very good at making them low-res, but I'll give it a shot. If that doesn't work, I'll try to e-mail them to you....

I didn't take any photos of the case, but I recall there are 2-3 lugs for the 914/Type 2 engine mount crossmember. I simply hacksawed them off and filed everything smooth.

By the way, I also put in a new 12-volt starter for the 914 flywheel, installing a thicker starter bushing (aftermarket) in the 356 bell housing for the smaller starter shaft. Because a 12-volt system was optional in 1965, I didn't have to do any grinding on the inside of the bell housing, but you might need to on an earlier car.

Regards, Fred Heiler

[Preston Brown]

Fred,

I'd like to see pictures too. I've thought (not seriously) about similar projects from time to time.

[Frederick Heiler]

The engine build was very straight-forward -- I began with a 2.0-liter 914 aluminum block and heads. As you all may know, the lower end looks much like a beefier 356 engine -- larger bearings (including for the cam), sturdy bolts for the flywheel and cylindrical lifters that can be inserted into the block after it's assembled. The pushrods tubes are sealed with O-rings and can be slid into place after the heads are installed. Oh, and it has a nice full-flow oil filter that screws onto a flange down low on the left side of the block.

Jake Raby (who produces the upright fan housing kit) also provided me a set of 0.040"-over pistons and bored factory cylinders as well as one of his cams which he feels approximates the 356 SC cam in lift and duration. Frankly, the engine was a joy to do after years of bolting together 356 engines.

A key part of the fan housing kit is a fabricated generator stand that bolts onto the block where the 914 oil breather used to go. Molded into the fiberglass housing are steel inserts with 6 mm threads for the four alternator bolts. It all fit together pretty well.

I wasn't wild about Raby's remote oil cooler, which allows the stock 914 cooler to sit in the fan housing with its own, separate duct that ensures equal cooling to all four cylinders, but it's proven to be trouble-free, at least so far. Two aluminum adapters are included -- one bolts to the block and the other to the cooler, with flex lines connecting them. I hope to upload an engine compartment photo shortly, in which all this is obvious (some day I'll buy some braided stainless lines and run them behind the left carb).

You'll also see throttle linkage mounted on the block that connects nicely to the Solex carbs with levers that sit at 5 and 7 o'clock (instead of the usual 2 on the left and 10 for the right).

I only have a couple of engine compartment photos -- sorry I didn't take any along the way.

Fred Heiler

[Frederick Heiler]

Raby "DTM" black fiberglass fan housing holds stock 914 oil cooler connected with aircraft lines. See Type 1 12-volt alternator and Raby alternator stand with black plastic oil filler cap. Swivel for throttle linkage bolts to block and connects to carbs via ball-and-socket rods and throttle shaft levers that mount at 4 and 8 o'clock angles (instead of original 2 and 10 o'clock).

[John Hudson]

I've talked with Raby about buying one of his engines for my 356. What type of exhaust/muffler system did you use? Thanks. John Hudson

[Frederick Heiler]

Hi John:

I got a pair of decent used heater boxes from a VW Type 4, and Raby sold me an inexpensive set of headers that clear the 356 rear panels. Just bear in mind you need parts from a rear-engine vehicle -- the mid-engined 914 plumbing isn't useful.

As background, the ideal heater boxes would be from a 912E, but they are extremely scarce. VW bus heater boxes are another choice, but they are needlessly large and heavy. Consider the interior volume of these vehicles -- the Type 4 boxes provide plenty of heat for a 356.

Hope this info is helpful, Fred Heiler

[Conrad Carter]

I have a 63 with this conversion. Runs great. I am not a fan of the Syn Link throttle cable but haven't found an alternative. I'm in NC if anyone wants to check my car out
Conrad

[Conrad Carter]

My car has a Chico Performance 2.1 L engine and runs great and is cost effective.