Steering wheel

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Albert Haefner
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Steering wheel

#1 Post by Albert Haefner » Sun Jan 09, 2022 2:00 pm

Who knows why the steel kernel turns almost free at the green marked line at It’s ext radius in the wheel Alu core?
Center part cannot be axially pressed out
Tried to secure it with drilled holes and studs but this is not a professional solution for a safety part as a steering wheel.
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John Brooks
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Re: Steering wheel

#2 Post by John Brooks » Sun Jan 09, 2022 9:03 pm

Albert the splines are gone, Like a brake drum when it gives up. I have no idea why it will not press unless the aluminum has a shoulder cast into it as a stop for the spline.

The only way I know to repair it would be to drill a series of small holes around the splines, centered on the space between the inner and outer spline where it is slipping and put small screws or pins in the holes. Try 6 or 8 each 5-7mm or so holes, with the center lined up and cutting 1/2 way into each ring. Then use a roll pin and press it into the hole. or tap the holes and run a small screw into them. This will reattach it to the shaft that goes on the spline. The hole size is determined by the roll pin or screw you want to use.

Do them in a drill press or milling machine. Use a good center drill to start each hole and get the set square at 90 degrees to the steering column splines and centered between each slipping spline. That inner spline is steel and the hub is aluminum. The drill will want to walk over to the aluminum side. so a good sharp center drill to start is paramount.

A "center drill" will cut both sides equally, I would use it all the way as deep as you can, then follow up with a cobalt drill all the way through the steel spline. GO SLOW and watch the chips, it may want to chatter since one side of the hole is harder that the other. Make a good fixture with a solid hold on the wheel. layout or mark out the hole locations, Then center punch each location, then drill them. If you have a rotary fixture and a mill use that. On a drill press, Spot drill first, the use the cobalt through the hub, then move the wheel to the next one, rinse and repeat. I think eight pins would be more than enough. Not too hard, measure the depth of the spline to determine the length of the roll pins, cut or grind them to the depth of the holes. You can use the drill press with a drift to press the pins in the holes after you drill them, before moving to the next one if you like.

Its not too hard and you can do this. Sie haben keine E-Mail in Ihrem Benutzerprofil aufgeführt
John Brooks

62 Roadster
66 912
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getting pushed around in porsches since 1965

andrew neville
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Re: Steering wheel

#3 Post by andrew neville » Sun Jan 09, 2022 11:51 pm

Aka Scotch key or Dutch key features a circular keyway hole (instead of rectangular), produced by drilling axially into the assembled hub and shaft, with a metal dowel pin serving as the key.

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Harlan Halsey
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Re: Steering wheel

#4 Post by Harlan Halsey » Mon Jan 10, 2022 6:28 am

We don't have quite enough inforation. Does the wheel wobble as well as rotate? If it were mine I would use one of the thin wicking epoxies plus a single key. I would prepare the wheel for the epoxy and the key, mount it on the shaft (pull the shaft out of the car) Put the epoxy in the dowl key hole move the joint around, drive the dowl home, and adjust the wheel for minimum wobble. I would mill the key hole rather than drill it. Epoxy should be suficient, the key is back up.

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Albert Haefner
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Re: Steering wheel

#5 Post by Albert Haefner » Mon Jan 10, 2022 5:26 pm

Done. I drilled one more hole and put studs in. Seems forever ok
Thank you all
 

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