Pre A cabriolet B-pillar door gaps before and after assembly

[Jeroen van der Velden]

I am in the final stage of painting my 1953 cabriolet and i am in doubt if in need to put the car on wheels with transmission and gearbox in it to check the B-pillar door gaps. Because the Pre a gaps are tight and cabriolet body is less stiff than a coupe i am a little concerned about the influence on the B-pillar door gaps after assembly.
Is there anyone who has experience with these early cabriolets before and after assembly?

Thanks, Jeroen

[Jules Dielen]

If you used new metal in the longs and rockers you should be just fine. They get flex as the tin worm does what it does.

[Joris Koning]

My experience with unrestored cars shows that the front gap is often a hair tighter than the rear one. Its a detail we are spending quite some time on making right for my '56

[Martin Benade]

As someone that has worked on and straightened lots of unibodies I am impressed at how strong a 356 body is considering how long ago it was designed. If you don’t reassemble and check things I doubt if it would be a disaster, but best to be safe. You really should get it sitting on its wheels at least, and preferably with an engine in it.

[Spencer Harris]

FWIW, factory photos suggest wheels didn't touch the ground until after lead and paintwork was completed.

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[Martin Benade]

That’s true but they didn’t have to contend with old rusty cabriolets that also were not on assembly jigs.

[Jim Wayman]

Have done a few of these. If you properly braced the body before disassembly and replacement of floors and/or longitudinals, you should be okay. If in doubt, there is no substitute than placing it on wheels, though if it flexes, the problem is greater than just fixing the gaps.

Jim Wayman

[Jules Dielen]

Have done a few of these. If you properly braced the body before disassembly and replacement of floors and/or longitudinals, you should be okay. If in doubt, there is no substitute than placing it on wheels, though if it flexes, the problem is greater than just fixing the gaps.

Jim Wayman

very well put if it flexes you may have missed a few too many spot welds

[Jeroen van der Velden]

Thanks for all the replies and the nice period factory pics! The bodywork of this car was done by a professional and all the metal around the rear torsion and longitudinals was replaced as original.
It think after receiving all these input i feel confident to go on with the paint process and rely on the Porsche design that the gaps are still perfect after assembling.

Regards, Jeroen

[Martin Benade]

Is it on jackstands now or a rotisserie of some kind?

[Dan Macdonald]

Hi Jeroen,
Almost all 356 bodies and interiors were done prior to the engine, suspension and tranny being installed.
Remember, the body, electrical and interior were done by Reutter (or other chassis makers) prior to being shipped to Porsche for final assembly.
(With the exception of the bodies being built by Porsche after they bought Reutter.)

Porsche, of course installed the engine, suspension and tranny.

There is a very nice book, with plenty of photos, about Reutter and its relationship with Porsche. Check out: Porsche 356: Made by Reutter