The Official 356Talk Forum

[/quote]
Correct:
Instructions.doc
[/quote]

Thanks for the instructions, Ron.

Cliff Murray wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 1:09 pm I have air filters on my race car.

Are those big Webers, like 44s ?

On my 65C coupe, I've never seen fuel on the top of the Webers, but I'm sure a lot of standoff vapor collects in the K&N filter when I stop after a hard run. I have the floats set at closed adjustment =10mm.
Based on what you and Dave Jones have said, it sounds like I should back out the mixture screws slightly to avoid a lean condition backfire.
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Dave Wildrick wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 6:03 pm Are those big Webers, like 44s ?

Yes, with 36mm venturis. Racers using Solexes usually use 36mm venturis also.

Dave Wildrick wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 6:03 pm I've never seen fuel on the top of the Webers

I mean when the K&N filter top and filter are removed. There should be a very light film where the filter sits. There should be no liquid wetness.

Dave Wildrick wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 5:42 pm

Correct:
Instructions.doc
[/quote]

Thanks for the instructions, Ron.
[/quote]
De nada, but those should be re-shot with the Pre Mat (integral spring perch) parts.

I thought a spring perch was an early Ford suspension part.

Martin Benade wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 10:40 pm I thought a spring perch was an early Ford suspension part.

Spring perch are the small ones. Late summer and early autumn perch are good eating.
You guys gonna make me find the SAE paper on air filtration/ring seal?

I was waaay off!
I’d be interested in learning about that. But my mind is made up- don’t confuse me with facts.

Ron LaDow wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 8:05 pm

Dave Wildrick wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 4:24 pm Hi Ron,
Hope you are recovering at a decent speed.

Better than expected, worse than hoped for.

Dave Wildrick wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 4:24 pmOn your current web page, you mention that a slight alteration to the Knecht filters is required.
I'm guessing it involves enlarging the hole in the bottom center of the filter to accommodate the Weber jet stacks. Mainely gave no instructions on this.
I would appreciate it if you could enlighten me on what to do.
Thanks much,
Dave

Correct:
Instructions.doc

Ron, on these instructions, after you mark the bottom of the Knecht filter, what did you use to cut/enlarge the holes?

Obviously, if I use a drill or hacksaw, steel fragments will fly all over the place inside the filter. I don't see any easy way to avoid this, as there is not much room to shove a greasy rag into the existing hole before drilling and to then retrieve it without dropping shrapnel inside the metal mesh of the filter.
I tried a standard sheet metal shears, but it's too large.
Would a manual cup and die sheet-metal hole punch work, or how about some sort of sheet-metal nibbler?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks.

Definitely a small knockout punch or a nibbler; no metal dust in there.

Thanks Ron.
Looks like a half inch knockout punch would work. I'll be heading to Harbor Freight soon. https://www.harborfreight.com/knockout- ... 60575.html

Well, I tried the half inch knockout punch/die from Harbor Freight, but it's very difficult to place the cutting half beneath the bottom of the Knecht. You have to drop the cutter through a hole in the filter top, and then finagle it into place on the bottom while you try to thread the through bolt into it. I managed that (connected the cutter and die with the through bolt), but it was clear that if I applied enough force to punch through the sheet metal, I was going to destroy the filter. There's no way to brace things while you turn a 24mm open end wrench on the nut at the end of the bolt to force the punch & die together. You're holding onto the filter with the other hand, and it's likely to crush from torsion.

So, I guess my alternative is to buy a sheet metal nibbler.
Anyone have a recommendation for a good one?
Thanks,
Dave

For a one time use a Harbor Freight one might be perfect, good enough.