The Official 356Talk Forum

Hi all,
Getting back to my restoration project after a 15 year hiatus. I have a 1960 roadster. It was built in the back half of 1959. It originally had a single mount transmission (which i still have) and the original frozen normal motor. I purchased a 1961 rusty coupe for many parts but primarily for the motor and transmission. The engine has a big bore kit on it and was running when i bought it many years ago. I had the single mount removed and dual mounts welded to the torsion tube on my roadster and all fits well. On to my question.
Before doing body work, i am making sure i have the necessary parts and that all unneeded holes are welded up. In temporarily assembling the tunnel “stuff”, i found several threads for the rear of a B tunnel and what goes where. I know most B’s and C’s had dual mounts so i think that maybe the info that is most easily available shows that the fuel line and clutch cable are the 2 upper exit points on the upper drivers side of the tunnel. Mine are opposite of that. (Meaning that the clutch cable is the upper most exit point and the metal fuel line is just to the right of that (looking from the back towards the front of the car). I can get the Bowden tube i but wondering if that will cause a problem when the final install happens (probably several years from now).

SO i guess the question is: do cars with single mount transmissions have (left to right looking towards the from from the back) have clutch cable then fuel line?

Thanks in advance.
Brock
60 T5 B Roadster

It sounds like yours is similar to the T2A in this article: https://porsche356registry.org/article/134 There are 45 1960 356s in past listings on BAT A few were single mount. Maybe you can see if like the T2A they have the same setup if you look closely. https://bringatrailer.com/search/?s=1960+porsche+356 I know that David Jones worked on one for a friend: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=40211&p=251213&hili ... on#p251213 Perhaps he or Vic knows the answer for sure. I will send this questionto bothof them.

i do not remember specifically if it was different to my "A" cars but I doubt it was. Absolutely no need to reposition the exit points that I see for a single mount when it switched from dual in A to the more roomy area on the early B cars.

Doug,
Thanks for replying. The article you reference was what i was comparing to. Numbers 8 & 9 are reversed on my car vs the photo.
Brock

Here is a photo of my situation..

Another view

I don't forsee any problem for you. I am not totally sure but I think this is the grommet for where the hard fuel line goes through the rear metal of the tunnel: https://www.stoddard.com/91435620100.html.html but your metal line looks a little short. Don't forget to safety wire your grub screw on the shift coupler.

Doug,
Thanks again for replies (nice to get feedback and any help i can get). I am mocking up the controls prior to paint to make sure that all things work before seam sealer, paint etc. i plan to replace the hard fuel line, put a safety wire around the rubber gas linkage piece and safety wire the grub screw!
Brock

You already have the updated accelerator cable connector part with metal jacket so no need to safety wire that one. :>)

Unless the car is terribly rusty the hard fuel line is usually fine. Just clean it out

Good to know on the updated accelerator cable connector!

The last 1.5 inches of the fuel line is broken off (not sure how) so i am contemplating buying some SAE brake line (75 inches) and replacing the whole line.

Doug. Wouldn’t using loctite red on the grub screw be effective?

The safety is Not that hard, it's a single wire safety, with the wire where it passes through the hole, positioned so the grub screw is prevented from backing out. Ignore my fancy USAF SAC (strategic air command) bent back wire twists, the mechanic who taught me was a tough old retired AFsergeant.
All that is needed, is to keep the grub screw from loosening. If you feel better with Loctite, use the blue, 242, in addition to the wire. IIRC, the late replacements do not have the safety wire hole, but have a safety preventer of some kind made in the threads.

Unless the wire is really tight, any loosening of the screw will lose some rotation adjustment.
On our race cars, I don't bother with the wire; I just use Red Loctite.

Vic is exactly right about any grub bolt loosening allowing too much shifter play, the result of which is poor shifting. In my college days, a friend had a Karmann Ghia, just out of warranty, which demonstrated this characteristic, and the local VW service manager quoted him a complete transaxle overhaul, which he couldn't afford. I drove my salvaged ins. co. totaled A T1 coupe to his dorm parking lot, removed the back seat, removed the coupling cover, and on a hunch, found the grubb bolt loose, and with a factory safety wire in place. I was able to untwist the existing wire, used my "infinantly adjustible metric spanner", to tighten the grub bolt, and resafety it tighter in place with the same wire. The KG was "fixed", and gave no further shifting issues as long as he had it.

The photo I posted, was staged with a spare late 356 coupler, hence the through pin end not driven home, and the somewhat loose single wire safety to show the direction needed to prevent backing out, to post on the 912 BBS, a while back, to help someone far away.

... my admission of guilt, is inadvertently leaving it loose for the pic, and having my aviation background, being a "belt and suspender" guy, encouraging both Loctite, and the simple safety wire.always having safety of flight in mind.

Thanks, to Vic, as well as seasoned others who monitor these posts, for calling such detail out, for further explanation, and correct function, we all need it...

"Keeping the Faith"