It Just Does Not Sound Right

[Al Zim]

Your engine builder should have a written down all the specifications (and results) of the engine rebuild. Ask him for that for review and post the information. Clearly review your method for setting the valve clearance and how you determine the EXACT SPECIFIED CLEARANCE.
I would THINK that high cylinder pressures would be due to the piston to head clearance being tight. Or your compression gauge needs to be replaced.
IN ANY EVENT: SEND AN OIL SAMPLE TO BE ANALIZED AND DO NOT START THE ENGINE! When you have read the oil analysis you can decide on a correct course of action. PATIENCE will save you a GREAT deal of money.
As you shim your heads out to reduce compression you will find that it will be difficult to install an exhaust and sheet metal systems easily. Zim

[Martin Benade]

Considering that this is a new problem after thousands of happy miles he must be setting the valve clearances correctly.

[Dan Kalinski]

Dan, If you haven't removed the engine yet, I would try the tests with different gauges. The most important consideration is if there are significantly different readings from cylinder to cylinder. The cheaper leak down testers tend to be inaccurate but do show differences between cylinders. If you truly do have 180psi pumping pressure then you ought to correct that. Other signs of too much compression would be difficult starter function and hot oil temps. Pumping pressures are a combination static CR and cam timing.

If there are not variations of readings then your clicking could be an exhaust leak. It could also be a loose valve but you should always adjust your valves before doing those tests.

Have a different compression tester and will try that one today. I would expect the used compression tester to be accurate since it is made by Bosch.?

My leak down tester seems to be a good quality as well and it calibrates nicely and it worked well when used on one of the big block Corvette engines in my collection. One point on leak down completed yesterday, the engine was warm but not at OT. I'll do that today as well.

As indicated above, valves were adjusted prior to the test: E=.005" I=.004". On this round of valve adjustment #3 and #4 E were a bit tight, but not excessively.

Re exhaust leak: Went through all the exhaust flanges to tighten the bolts. #2 the lower bolt was finger tight and once access was gained to the upper bolt (euro exhaust) it was firm and therefore tightened. All the other exhaust bolts were firm. All could be tightened which was completed.

Leak down on #3 & #4 could hear hissing while under the car listening to these cylinders.

On a side note, #1 & #3 plugs are a bit heavy with carbon, powder black, and do not appear to be fouled.

BTW the car starts well and the oil temp from my observations has never been above 195-200 and that was on a very hot day where ambient was over 90*. I have Ron's dipstick temperature gauge and not that it matters for the issues presented here, the full flow oil filter installed.

Appreciate your interest along with all the other responses to these issues.

[Dan Kalinski]

Your engine builder should have a written down all the specifications (and results) of the engine rebuild. Ask him for that for review and post the information. Clearly review your method for setting the valve clearance and how you determine the EXACT SPECIFIED CLEARANCE.
I would THINK that high cylinder pressures would be due to the piston to head clearance being tight. Or your compression gauge needs to be replaced.
IN ANY EVENT: SEND AN OIL SAMPLE TO BE ANALIZED AND DO NOT START THE ENGINE! When you have read the oil analysis you can decide on a correct course of action. PATIENCE will save you a GREAT deal of money.
As you shim your heads out to reduce compression you will find that it will be difficult to install an exhaust and sheet metal systems easily. Zim

Thanks Al. Good information and instructions.

Greatly appreciated.

[Dan Kalinski]

Considering that this is a new problem after thousands of happy miles he must be setting the valve clearances correctly.

Thanks Martin. Have been an air cooled VW guy for a long time and messing with 356 since around 2009.

Quick story: Went with my Dad to look at a 58 Bug. The owner was perplexed as to how to get the engine running well. Once we had the engine going, could tell the valves were all screwed up due to wrong sequencing. The guy wanted $150 and we towed it away for $80. Went to where my Dad worked and out of the rain where I adjusted the valves with a matchbook cover and we drove the car home in nearly perfect shape.

[George Hussey]

do you think that it is leaking bout between the head and the cylinder (hearing it underneath the car, rather than through the oil filler

[Martin Benade]

That’s what I wondered also since you hear hissing under the car. Listening with a rubber hose would pinpoint that.

[Al Zim]

DAN I do not think that your valve adjustment is the cause. You should elaborate on how you do the valve adjustment, in my opinion the intake and exhaust valves are adjusted proper OR THEY ARE NOT! Porsche uses .004 inches on the intake and .006 on the exhaust. If there is deviation (wear) on the tip of the rocker this will invalidate any correct measurement. (Elgin resurfaces ALL the rocker arms we use).
I look at a large number of engines especially in the advertisements and the cars for sale most of them exhibit situations that have been compromised by improper adjustments that have occurred since their inception in 1958. 65 years. Al Zim

[Martin Benade]

My feeling is that as long as there is always SOME clearance nothing will be harmed, as it grows as the engine heats up.
Al, if you don’t think his valve adjustment is the problem, why do you want to hear how he does it?

[Dan Kalinski]

DAN I do not think that your valve adjustment is the cause. You should elaborate on how you do the valve adjustment, in my opinion the intake and exhaust valves are adjusted proper OR THEY ARE NOT! Porsche uses .004 inches on the intake and .006 on the exhaust. If there is deviation (wear) on the tip of the rocker this will invalidate any correct measurement. (Elgin resurfaces ALL the rocker arms we use).
I look at a large number of engines especially in the advertisements and the cars for sale most of them exhibit situations that have been compromised by improper adjustments that have occurred since their inception in 1958. 65 years. Al Zim

.004" I and .005" E .005 has some wiggle room as have always given more slack to the E valves. Have used TDC for all, starting with #1 with 180* counterclockwise rotation to the next cylinder. I've also used 1,4,3,2 with clockwise rotation @ 180*. If there is a significant difference between the two methods, would like to know. Further, when I had the engine work completed, made sure the rockers were ground to the correct surface feature.

Thank you.

[Jim Clement]

Dan - how long ago in Months / years did you get the work done ? I know you said about 7,000 miles..
and what did engine rebuilder say ?
I am thinking you are either going to trailer the car to him, or take the engine to him ??

[Dick Weiss]

Dan,

Several things may be the cause to investigate;

1. The cylinders-to-the seats in the heads should be the same depth w/in .0005".
2. The cylinders should be the same height w/in the same tolerance. Add the cyl. shims equally.
3. The cylinder seats (on the case) should be w/in reason as the copper shims will get "crushed" during torquing.
Pre-torque the heads to the cylinders, remove the heads, and check the heights of the cylinders w/a flat bar
across the tops--sweep in both directions as best as possible.
4. If all the above checks out, add the heads and torque the heads equally to 7, 15, 22, and 28 lbs.ft.
alternately and re-finalize twice more. YES, you must flip the case bank and forth per above.

The late (rip) Ray Litz found this out way back during the old racing days if the heads are torqued completely
on 1st head, then the 2nd head, the 1st head WON'T be correctly torqued!
YES, you gotta flip the engine over each time which stresses the case equally.

Dick

[Dan Kalinski]

Dan - how long ago in Months / years did you get the work done ? I know you said about 7,000 miles..
and what did engine rebuilder say ?
I am thinking you are either going to trailer the car to him, or take the engine to him ??

Hi Jim.

Purchased the car summer of 2007. Think it was late 2008 that the engine was delivered to the rebuilder. Towards the end of 2009, received the engine and trans back from rebuild. They sat in my shop which was heated for over a year. All the body work and paint completed during this time. Body paint completed and waiting for the opening for the trim guy.... another year. Think it was around 2012 when it was all together and running. It's been a wonderful car.

Going to deliver the engine and it is a bit of a trip to the rebuilder. He is a good fellow and I'm happy to reconnect with him.

[Dan Kalinski]

Dan,

Several things may be the cause to investigate;

1. The cylinders-to-the seats in the heads should be the same depth w/in .0005".
2. The cylinders should be the same height w/in the same tolerance. Add the cyl. shims equally.
3. The cylinder seats (on the case) should be w/in reason as the copper shims will get "crushed" during torquing.
Pre-torque the heads to the cylinders, remove the heads, and check the heights of the cylinders w/a flat bar
across the tops--sweep in both directions as best as possible.
4. If all the above checks out, add the heads and torque the heads equally to 7, 15, 22, and 28 lbs.ft.
alternately and re-finalize twice more. YES, you must flip the case bank and forth per above.

The late (rip) Ray Litz found this out way back during the old racing days if the heads are torqued completely
on 1st head, then the 2nd head, the 1st head WON'T be correctly torqued!
YES, you gotta flip the engine over each time which stresses the case equally.

Dick

Thank you, Dick.

Amazing info and every nut/bolt should know the torque wrench and it's operator... the good and knowledgeable ones anyway........

[Al Zim]

DAN: A Point for your consideration! You stated that you set the exhaust valves at .005 but then leave them a little loose. Was that done on the Piston Rings when the engine was assembled? Zim