Pedal assembly questions 356B T5

[Ken Tuvman]

Good Morning,

Thinking it wouldn’t hurt to place a washer on brake pedal shaft that attaches to pivot to m/c rod- there was not one present on disassembly / thoughts?

Also what is correct length of m/c rod as it is adjustable.

Thanks again > Ken

[Martin Benade]

I’d definitely put a washer there under the hopes the cotter pin never wears through. Fortunately there’s no side force on it.

[James Rowe]

The factory parts manual shows one there. It is part #66 in photos below

[Ken Tuvman]

Thanks guys

[Wes Bender]

The correct length of the MC rod is to have it long enough that it almost touches the piston. In other words, as close as you can get it without touching. Excessive gap there means longer pedal throw before anything starts to happen. If it is touching, the brakes may drag if they are adjusted closely.

[Doug McDonnell]

You must have gap as others have mentioned. I use 1 mm of gap

[Ken Tuvman]

Thanks Wes & Doug

I bought a spring for accelerator but it won’t fit over shaft - looks like we’ll need to turn shaft down in lathe - there was no spring present on disassembly - this is the part Stoddard makes but does not want to fit on the round pedal rod.

[Tom Keating]

The washer on the mc rod goes to the outside of the boss then the cotter pin. I always use a little grease on the boss. The washer is available Porsche part# N0115642

[Dave Erickson]

I bought a spring for accelerator but it won’t fit over shaft - looks like we’ll need to turn shaft down in lathe - there was no spring present on disassembly - this is the part Stoddard makes but does not want to fit on the round pedal rod.

The shaft needs to be a close fit in the pedal and bottom bracket (otherwise the pedal will have unwanted play). You can tighten those fits in a vise, though.

[Ken Tuvman]

Got the refurbished pedal assembly installed and I've got the same problem as before with brake pedal movement - the work I did on the pedal assembly is good - the pedal has a new spring, bumpers and was well greased - brake pedal returns to "brake unapplied" position without the rod going into the m/c.

There is interference where rod to pedal goes into the master cylinder - interference meaning it seems to have a bind somewhere between both ends of the rod that attaches to pivot on brake pedal and where it goes into the m/c. Tried loosening the 3 bolts that secure pedal assembly and no change. It seems as though the angle is off. My thoughts are pointing to the master cylinder assembly or the rod - it seems unlikely that the rod could be bent but I'll not rule that out - it is an alignment problem.

Has anyone experienced something along these lines and if so, how did you resolve it.

Thank You

[Martin Benade]

I’d look at whether the MC is really pointing straight forward and parallel to the ground. I’ve never heard of this being off, but maybe yours is.

[Ken Tuvman]

I’d look at whether the MC is really pointing straight forward and parallel to the ground. I’ve never heard of this being off, but maybe yours is.

It’s been like that since we installed a new M/C in when we first got car on the road after sitting for 20 years - maybe a bad m/c but that seems unlikely but nothings impossible.

[Martin Benade]

That’s more controlled by the alignment of the two studs and the front plate of the pedal bracket.
Is the pushrod hole in the piston slightly tapered or oversize? It needs to be to accommodate the very slight up-and-down motion of the pushrod.

[Ken Tuvman]

Probably won’t “move the needle” but what happens if I move washer to other side of brake pedal?
Looking at picture the rod is not straight in line with the master cylinder,

[Martin Benade]

Looks like something is seriously wrong here. It’s way out of alignment. Is there any way the brake pedal can move to the right 1/2”?
Edited- I’m wrong here, this is how it’s made.