Generator/Axle trouble : Denmark/Sweden

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Al Zim
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#16 Post by Al Zim »

6 VOLT REGULATOR CONTROLLING A 12 VOLT GENERATOR? NO AND NO AND DO NOT DO THAT! The field coils on the 6 volt generator is 5 amps on the 12 volt is 1.2 amps! 12 volt alternators can be converted to 6 volts you need to find the guy that can do that ! We can do that here so someone can do that in Europe. Alternator conversion kits are available in Europe. zim We are finishing a 12 volt conversion today. We do this 3 times per month. Use the VW alternator it will need to be changed to 6 volts and you will need an adaptor plate kit to attach it to the fan shroud also available in England if you run 6 volts everything on your car will work better.
Last edited by Al Zim on Tue Sep 13, 2022 6:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Neil Bardsley
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#17 Post by Neil Bardsley »

David Jones wrote: Tue Sep 13, 2022 9:01 am Neil, it's just an age related issue. The only thing that may have prevented it happening would have been a rebuild of both regulator and generator before your trip and even that would not be 100%.
We should all remember though that cooling is the most critical failure point in the 356 engine.
David this is the second time this generator has been rebuilt. After it's first rebuild it failed in a similar way on a Classic Le Mans trip. Rob, who rebuilt it noted that it was 12v wound and had it rewound. He rebuilt again, at no cost,because a bearing had failed. He gave life time warranties on his work and was trusted by many of the top places here. Unfortunately, he has passed away. Since he rebuild I have drilled 4 holes in the band for cooling. Before the trip I cleaned the commutator and tested 7.5v recharge at the battery at 3k.

During the trip I been very careful about running the car engine and not stopping and starting it because of the cooling danger you mentioned. Unfortunately, I had to stop the engine on the ferry but the temperature had returned to about 180 before stopping.

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David Jones
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#18 Post by David Jones »

Neil, oil temp of 180 is normal and even 220 is not really a concern. 250 and I would looking for a problem. I have never had genny problem on the road, usually they show up during testing in the garage. Nowadays I monitor my vokyage with digital voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter socket.
If I had known I would live this long I would have pushed the envelope a little harder.
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Martin Benade
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#19 Post by Martin Benade »

If the regulator is not adjusted just right it can cook the generator no matter how well it was rebuilt. That generally involves melted solder and thrown windings, shutting down the fan too. I’ve had that happen once in Wyoming, it was a headache.
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#20 Post by Mike Wilson »

Somewhat related: why were the terminal straps for the early models louvered and later ones not?

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David Jones
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#21 Post by David Jones »

Martin, that is exactly why I found a digital voltmeter to plug in to the cigarette lighter. Now if I see higher than 7.6 volts output I can legitimately panic.
If I had known I would live this long I would have pushed the envelope a little harder.
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Neil Bardsley
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#22 Post by Neil Bardsley »

330k to Gothenburg today. Didn't miss a beat. Battery is recharging in our hotel room again

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Spencer Harris
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#23 Post by Spencer Harris »

Martin Benade wrote: Tue Sep 13, 2022 2:16 pm ...had that happen once in Wyoming, it was a headache.
:shock: Yea, foreign cars in Wyoming can be a problem. On the way to ski at Jackson Hole in '77, my VW bus broke down in Kemmerer. I took a job on a drilling rig while waiting for parts from SLC, and spent the next forty years trying to make enough money to get back home to Tennessee.
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#24 Post by Brian R Adams »

Martin Benade wrote: Tue Sep 13, 2022 2:16 pm If the regulator is not adjusted just right it can cook the generator no matter how well it was rebuilt. That generally involves melted solder and thrown windings, shutting down the fan too. I’ve had that happen once in Wyoming, it was a headache.
Wyoming can be a headache even without mechanical trouble. The wind, oh my, the wind.
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Harlan Halsey
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#25 Post by Harlan Halsey »

Neil,
It seems to me that you have a viable solution, recharging each night I would stick with that until you can address the charge circuit at your leisure. Replacing a generator in the car is not a trivial job. You have to remove the oil canister bracket through bolts, and the generator stand bolts and nuts, probably replacing the gasket. The hard part is swapping the fan assembly over to the new generator. The fan nut is high torque and there's no good way to hold the fan. (The shaft is too weak.) This is the one place on a 356 engine I use an impact wrench-carefully. I don't consider a generator replacement a field operation myself.

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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#26 Post by Wes Bender »

..and what if, after you did all that, you still had the problem?
Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.....

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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#27 Post by Al Zim »

GENERATOR FAN HUB REMOVAL: 1) remove the generator pulley halves and all the shims. Place the hub of the fan belt side of the generator in a vice with wood on each side of the vice to keep from distorting the hub. Make it tight. You can use an impact or a long handle ratchet to remove the nut. it is 36MM. Everything will come off! You will probably need a pair of screwdrivers to assist you.
ASSEMBLY: REPLACE BOTH THE WOODRUF KEYS WITH NEW ONES. A drop of oil on the shafts is a good idea. 1 DROP spread it around. Place the fan belt end in your vice with the boards. We usually remove the tin plate that covers the holes in the fan. It lets air pull trough the generator and keeps it cooler. Assemble and tighten to 75 Ft. Lbs. It is ready to install on the engine. DO NOT FORGET THE CARDBOARD GASKET.
GENERATOR REMOVAL: remove to oil filter by undoing the clamp and removing the oil lines. TWIST THE END FITTINGS IF THEY MOVE THE LINES SHOULD BE REPLACE IMMEDIATELY. Loosen the left through bolt remove the right (cylinder 1/2) and you can swing the bracket out of the way to remove the generator. There usually is a bracket on the fan shroud that holds the fuel line it is somewhat a pain to install. Use a torque wrench for installation)
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Wes Bender
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#28 Post by Wes Bender »

That's fine for when he gets home, but he probably doesn't have the vise or impact wrench with him on this trip. I'm still going with Harlan's post.
Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.....

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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#29 Post by Neil Bardsley »

I've taken the generator off a few times but left the fan removal to others but will attempt it at home

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David Jones
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Re: Dyno trouble : Denmark/Sweden

#30 Post by David Jones »

Neil, find a shop that works on VW type 1 engines and get them to do the overhaul.
You may also want to change the title of your post to generator troubles. I suspect auto correct turned dynamo into dyno which is a very different subject.
If I had known I would live this long I would have pushed the envelope a little harder.
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