Disassembly of Lock Receiver
- Carl Swirsding
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 178
- Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2010 10:11 pm
- Location: Los Altos, CA
Disassembly of Lock Receiver
I am attempting to remove the very small set screw that holds the Lock Cylinder inside the Lock Receiver from my C Coupe. See photo. I have applied Swepco 808 penetrating oil once or twice a day, and tapping it each time, for the last five days. But those little screws are holding on very tenaciously. I hesitate putting a torch on these delicate parts. Any suggestions on the best way to get these screws loose?
Carl Swirsding
Los Altos, CA
'64 C Coupe #215553
Los Altos, CA
'64 C Coupe #215553
- Mike Wilson
- Classifieds Monitor
- Posts: 11623
- Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 4:37 pm
- Location: SW Los Angeles
Re: Disassembly of Lock Receiver
Carl, they are a PAIN! There are previous threads on the topic. Most of the time, the head will snap off. Sometimes you get lucky. I'd be careful with heat maybe use the tip of a soldering iron. If the head snaps, the broken one needs to be drilled out and tap the hole for a new grub screw.
Mike
Mike
Mike Wilson
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe
- Herlin E. Woolery
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:45 pm
- Location: Ontario, Calif.
Re: Disassembly of Lock Receiver
+1 Mike
Carl, I used white vinegar as a penetrating into the threads let set for some time and patiently turned the screws, when you do get the grub screws out Buy a lottery ticket.
Good Luck
Herlin
Carl, I used white vinegar as a penetrating into the threads let set for some time and patiently turned the screws, when you do get the grub screws out Buy a lottery ticket.
Good Luck
Herlin
- Rick Albro
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 330
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 12:57 am
Re: Disassembly of Lock Receiver
The Zemak that the button is cast from can melt or sag at 650 C some soldering irons can get that hot...The cylinder is brass and has a higher melting temperature... patience is the key... as mentioned once you have run your patience to the end then drilling usually is the final path forward.
You will note the pictured image has had the screw drilled out and re-tapped... the hole was over size and a larger brass screw was inserted and small holes drilled at the thread interface then soldered...Make sure to fill the inside with low melting wax to preserve the key way... the correct size hole was then drilled and tapped in reasonably the correct position... this becomes a labor of love at some point... new cylinder and button can be purchased in a worst case scenario... Often the best path forward is to just drill the head of the grub screw off so that the cylinder can be withdrawn from the button. Then the cylinder can be placed in a V-block and a reasonably straight hole can be drilled... you will need to set the drill depth as no more than the radius of the cylinder because if you penetrate the key way removal of the little flashing's on the inside is very difficult...and the key does not fit well afterwards... If you center punch the grub screw before drilling make sure the key is inserted or you can distort the cylinder... give the cylinder internal support while center punching... good luck contact any of us if you need more guidance or a pep talk...- Mike Wilson
- Classifieds Monitor
- Posts: 11623
- Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 4:37 pm
- Location: SW Los Angeles