rear spark reach

[Martin Benade]

All the rubber hose I’ve ever had was curved from being on a roll making it useless for this. If it’s straight I bet it works well.

[Larry Brooks]

I use the rubber hose method partly for the feel, but also because it can be frustrating to retrieve a plug after it slips out of the socket behind the sheet metal.

As seen here in an engine I recently disassembled the spark plug and the screw driver that apparently was used to try to retrieve it had obviously been in there a long time. I've tried several times to upload photo which is quite small, but won't load.

[Martin Benade]

They gave up, or was there still space for another plug to be installed?

[Paul Ahnell]

Martin et. al: straighten the hose with a piece of dowel, leaving enough room at the far end to grab the plug. Best device for starting a plug without X-threading or dropping the plug behind the tin. I've been using this one for ~45 years.

[Wes Bender]

Frankly, I've never had a problem using a spark plug socket, as long as the rubber insert was intact. Spin it in by hand with a short extension before torquing it. Use whatever method works for you. Once you get used to the proper angle for insertion, it's a lot easier. First timers or those who shouldn't own tools in the first place are prone to screwing it up. I don't think any of the folks who post on here regularly would leave a plug loose inside the sheet metal (but I've been wrong before....).

[Thomas Sottile]

The works for me and has for the last35 years to start the plug

[Pete Indelicato]

Works every time...

ps--Happy Father's Day to all

[gregg hake]

I have a rich history of losing plugs in my 911 and 356 using regular sockets (when I was too cheap to by a SP socket), sockets with rubber inserts, and magnetic sockets. They were always marginally effective.
2 years ago, i went to Oreilly's and found a socket with a super strong magnet in it. It IMMEDIATLY made the procedure EASY. I can now remove all the plugs and then replace them in under 3 minutes. Never had a plug detach from this socket...it is a god send to me. And because it is so secure, I have a great feel on the plug when I re-install it so cross threading isnt a problem.

[Paul Ahnell]

The beauty of using the hose tool is that when the torque you apply while threading the plug with your finger tips on the hose reaches that which would cause x-treading the plug, the hose just spins on the top of of the plug as opposed to cranking down with a ratchet. When the hose starts slipping, you are either x-threading or, the plug is set deeply and "finger tight" and can switch to a ratchet to safely complete the installation. I think most of us can discern how deeply we have screwed in the plug for "finger tight" vs. x-thread.

[Mike Horton]

Like Greg, about a decade ago, a 912 Registry member in Houston posted on the 912 BBS, the GearWrench 80547 3/16" swivel spark plug socket, 3/8" drive, with strong magnet, and built in 3" swivel extension. I found mine on Amazon, and added my shortest 3/8" drive extension, and with my old worn out swivel head ratchet, since replaced with a new Gearwrench ratchet for my self Christmas gift last year, among others, find that chore far easier, than since my first time back in 1964.

After my last plug drop, due to a loose and hardened rubber insert in my old plug socket, and the frustrating process to retrieve it, I treated myself to some new technology and never leave town without this kit... try one, and you'll wonder how we got along without one,