The Official 356Talk Forum

Hi guys. anyone know what thread the Pitman Arm is?
I'm looking (rather my retired engineer dad) at making a tool to remove it, similar to the P72 tool.
looking at pictures of the P72 tool it looks like it may screw on to the pitman arm prior to pulling. I'm guessing if it does screw on, this protects the thread as you are doing the same as tightening the nut but in reverse.
It's hard to work out how it actually works from a couple of pictures and no videos but hoping will become clearer once I have the steering box off and on a bench.
Thanks, Tim

I made a look alike tool to remove the pitman. You can see it if you go to project "time to restore my notchback". On page 4 of the article you will see some pictures. It was a 4" in piece of rectangular steel stock.
You do have to apply a bit of heat to the arm but it came right off. I used the nut, backed out to flush with the shaft end to protect threads. Any help I can be, let me know.

Hi Tim - I borrowed part of the P72 tool (bolt was missing) & we used a press & it let go with a “bang!” Wish I had better pictures to share but there are two good articles on resources part of registry website by Paul Christensen that show step by step how to do the repair - besides removing Pittman arm, hardest part I’d getting steering box out & in!
The service made my car much more stable to drive & also replaced the coupler with a kit.
Hope this helps!

Another view and the project is "time to restore my 356 notchback". Forgot the 356.

You did it the correct way. Hope all goes well with the steering box rebuild.

Hi David, yes I was talking last night with my dad about using the existing nut to protect the treads too so glad this is common thinking and what makes the P72 tool so special. Box section now that' a great idea. I'll look up your article. Thanks for the quick response.
Hi Ken. I did read about bending the access hole to replace but didn't realise I would need to bend it to remove too. I'll look up Paul Christensen article also, thanks too for the fast response.

Tim

Actually Tim - it came out without bending the lip on access hole but we’d remove the top section - going back in though the top has to be secured to rest of unit.
Good Luck

I believe we have a good one here shipped to you for $95.00 al zim 800.356.2964 This might be considered an ad!

Al, that’s for a p72?

Yes!

Good deal!

Hi all. I have just managed to get the box out. The track rod arms were hard work with limited access below but managed to release then both with a tool Dave Jones told me to buy. I applied some silicon spray to the tool just to get in under the rubber boots so not to destroy them and after some effort it worked. Once all the bolts were loose the box could nearly come out through the top hole but not quite (as expected from previous articles) . Funny enough my dad suggested removing the top cover of the box and yes it worked. I then read Kens's update tonight where you did the same. I'm wondering if I can put it back the same way. Ken you said the lid needs to be back on for replacement. I guess setting up the torque is far easier on a bench but does that mean you had to bend the access hole to get it back in?

I was going to use grease not oil as again Dave Jones suggested using "One Shot" grease. This stuff is runny and doesn't go hard and is used by the Landrover guys.

The box was dry when I opened it but I have replacement parts ready for a rebuild if required. David I also have some box section ready for making a tool like yours.

Al thanks for the generous offer but i'll try making something first. I have just bought some items from the US and the VAT and shipping to Bristol UK over doubled the price of the part. It' get expensive for a tool i'll probably never use again.
I'll keep in in mind should i need it.

I'll keep you updated on how I get on.
Thanks, Tim

Tim, I have never had a problem removing the box through the access cover. Just rotate all the way to the right or left, one way allows it to be rotated out.

Tim - I replaced seals & used 90 wt gear oil- you want the top on before reinstalling as you need to turn the splined rod to know you’ve got the resistance at center point. My steering peg was in good shape - probably because it wasn’t adjusted properly - but it is now!
I put my box & arm in an ultrasonic tank & then sandblasted exterior, primed & painted black satin.

You will be able to purchase a pin that has been welded and then returned to original specifications. There is no way to replace the gear. I have consulted with two engineering professors from major Texas universities. I have handed the gear to two major aircraft manufacturers locally without success. However they did this it was an intricate design. It was not done with computer assisted machining.