Engine install problems...

[Greg Long]

I hate to do this because I'm sure it's been discussed many times already but my Search of the Documents and past Talk Forum hasn't helped.

I'm trying to re-install the 912 engine that just came out of my '59 Convertible D. I removed it and it wasn't easy... the 'heater horns' were a problem clearing the drive shafts...

... and not enough room around the rear tin (I removed the 'tray' but left the tin around the rear in (not sure it even can come out?)).

But in trying to get it back in I just can't see how I can get the 'heater horns' over the driveshafts... while getting the generator to clear the rear tin. Also, should the lower 2 studs already be installed on the engine side? I can't see how I can make all these things happen at once... and get the input shaft in properly too! I have the car on a lift and have a newer hydraulic jack.

Are there any articles that take one through a step by step on how to install the engine? I've read the factory manual but it's just not enough info for me to get it installed.

Your help is super appreciated as always!

Greg

[John Brooks]

To clear the horns you need to pitch the front of engine down until right after the generator shaft clears the rear deck and jack it up as the heater tubes clear the axles then you can lower the back end until the angle matches the trans bell-housing. I have a tailor made jack with a pitch control to do this. The table has a screw jack to pitch it down. it is a motor cycle jack with 14' extension and tilt table, I can install and engine by myself with the carbs and tins completely installed. I only wish I had it 50 years ago.

[Harlan Halsey]

It helps to remove the fan belt and the dip stick. There's just enough clearance to get the pulley past the engine compartment floor. And the carburetors past the sides. 912 engines have longer lower mounting studs than 356s. The extra length of these studs increases the difficulty and requires spacers as the threads are too short. (I shorten the 912 studs.) After the splines line up and engine slides home, just lightly snug the bottom nuts to hold it there, then you tighten the top bolts before tightening the bottom nuts. Then remove the jack. How to get the washers and nuts on the top bolts has been the subject of a couple of recent posts.
Installing a street 356 engine is one of those things much easier done the third time. And much easier with two people. Nevertheless, it is a whole lot easier than installing a water-cooled front engine. John Brooks didn't build that fancy engine lift for nothing.

[Vic Skirmants]

Greg; you need to ask this in the Main Discussion, although it appears you got your answer.

[John Brooks]

Greg

I am about an hour north if you want to borrow the jack, give me a call I am on the TAN list

[Martin Benade]

I am glad this discussion is here. I haven’t had my engine out for about 40 years and I forgot that the heater outlets are raised over the axles after the generator is well into the engine compartment. I would have figured it out but I am sure I would have started backwards when I install my new engine next week.

[Greg Long]

Success!

Thanks to all especially Mr D Jones who called me from Kentucky last night and gave me a blow by blow description. Such a great group.

The new info to me was to remove the dipstick and fanbelt and tuck the rear engine trim between the bottom of the generator and top of the main pulley… and then push and wiggle the engine straight onto the input shaft.

Getting to the top starter bolt wasn’t fun but doable with an extension and 17mm socket; and a friend up above.

Now let’s hope it all works!

Greg in Seattle

[Jim Liberty]

I remove the rear tin. All the rest is in place. The key is tipping the motor back to clear the heater horns. All the while the generator nut barely clears the rear pan. An extra pair of hands is a big help. .......................Jim.

[Martin Benade]

Jim, you put the horns up and over first?
Greg, what do you tuck between the pulleys?