Rear chattering

[Ken Tuvman]

Not sure what you call this but it’s rusted out near hose that connects from heater valve going into car - it has some insulation inside.

Thanks!

[David Jones]

Restoration design makes the repair parts. They will need some fettling.

[Ken Tuvman]

David - thank you!

[John Brooks]

Ken

That’s a complicated repair, two sections and it will go up into the back seat well. A couple repairs examples here
https://forum.abcgt.com/forum/main-foru ... n-projects

[Martin Benade]

What does the chattering term refer to here?

[Ken Tuvman]

What does the chattering term refer to here?

Martin - I guess I was pretty wiped out last night when I posted this - had been a long day on another project! - the motivation for jacking car up was I'd heard a chattering / squeaky hamster wheel noise while driving home. First thought it could be the generator so I shut off engine driving @ 35 mph and let it roll in neutral and the sound was still there. Last thing we did was replace left rear axle seal so I suspected maybe a bad bearing on one of the two rear wheels. Jacked up each side and no noise. I'd seen that rusty spot near heater spout and it caught my attention. I also noticed the left cable strap holding the brake line is missing and the strap on right side is deteriorated and torn - I'm not sure if the replacement strap Stoddard sell is the best RX for that but they should be supported.

Back to the noise - although I couldn't hear any noise I'm wondering if the right rear axle seal should also be replaced (it's not leaking and mechanic I work with suggested we leave it alone). Transaxle fluid is full but I'm suspecting the noise has to do with rotation of rear tires. The noise started after driving about 30 miles.

[Al Zim]

If the left side of the car is excessively rusty!! then I will venture a opinion that all 4 corners of the car are rusty. THIS IS NOT A REPAIR SITUATION THAT CAN BE DONE AT YOUR HOME!! The squeaking noise is probably the metal tube on the end of trailing arm that positions the torsion bar. The rubber bushings are worn out and there is metal rubbing against metal. I always get reprimanded when I mention how to successfully do this repair and to align the car so it goes down the road with the front wheels on parallel with the rear wheels. Get an estimate for the repairs and then you can decided if you should keep the car or obtain a better one.

[Ken Tuvman]

If the left side of the car is excessively rusty!! then I will venture a opinion that all 4 corners of the car are rusty. THIS IS NOT A REPAIR SITUATION THAT CAN BE DONE AT YOUR HOME!! The squeaking noise is probably the metal tube on the end of trailing arm that positions the torsion bar. The rubber bushings are worn out and there is metal rubbing against metal. I always get reprimanded when I mention how to successfully do this repair and to align the car so it goes down the road with the front wheels on parallel with the rear wheels. Get an estimate for the repairs and then you can decided if you should keep the car or obtain a better one.

Thanks Al but not quite like you are speculating - that rust isolated in that one area and the rubber bushings were replaced last year. Repairs are done at a professional shop. Not everything is black and white, I'd describe things as shades of grey - this is my rolling project and work of art and it's coming together, albeit slowly, but coming together.

[Wes Bender]

Ken, it's not likely that you are looking at the only spot on the car that is badly rusted. Might be time to get it up on a lift and give it a good looking over. Rusted areas that bad can affect the overall strength of the body and it might be time to get some bodywork done. I don't wish to be the bearer of bad tidings (we've already got a resident member for that on the forum), but I would hate to see something go terribly wrong while you are driving it.

[Jim Liberty]

Wes is right. put it up on a lift and give it a good looking over. Costs nothing to look. ...........Jim.

[Doug McDonnell]

Unless that rear frame rail was badly injured by a jack be prepared to have to go aways to find good solid metal to start your repair. David Gensler shows a nice frame rail repair of the earlier style rail here: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=20706&hilit=rear+frame+rail

[Geoff Fleming]

A squeaking noise can be traced to an un-lubricated distributor. Use a wipe of high temp. grease on the shaft below the rotor.
Another suspect could be a dragging disc brake.
Any welding repairs can certainly be done at home by a competent person. Most 356s have been repaired by owners and track perfectly afterwards.
Failing shock absorber with dry bushings might also give some noise.

[Ken Tuvman]

Thanks for suggestions - it’s leaking left axle seal (again)
Is this a good checklist to help insure we get it right the 2nd time?
Also, my car has been up and down on a lift at least 25 times! The rust spot will get repaired and car isn't falling apart so fast.

356 rear seals
Get a couple 10 x1.5mm bolts cut the head off, then after pulling the bearing cover and installing the seal kit,thread the cut studs in to the axle to center/ align the cover, backing plate install two bolts snug remove the "made" studs install the other two bolts torque cover bolts per spec .this way you won't have to remove the brake line or shoes, springs etc.2. Remove everything3. Clean Everything4. Examine the Bearing for its general condition and feel - look for cracked cages (fairly common)5. Make sure the Tube Spacer that the seal runs on is smooth and not worn6. Buy a New Seal Kit – from NLA /Stoddard – DO NOT buy a VW Kit the flat washer that sits on the outer side of the wheel bearing will be too soft and will crush as you tighten up the drive shaft nut – eventually leaving the assembly under torque`d7. NOTE – Porsche never used a paper gasket - it will not be in a `proper` kit –the paper gasket is a VW thing8. The Wheel Bearing must have the correct Pre-load and the Brake Backing Plate must be gripped firmly –
This requires measuring and shimming - Read Elfrink – he describes how this is achieved. 9. Buy extra Shims – be surprised at what they cost10. Re-assemble with everything in the correct order – study Elfrink 11. 12. Make sure the Seal Carrier is up the right way – Oil Dripper, down. 13. Make sure the seal is Square in the carrier – If it is not, the sealing area will be oval (not good for keeping oil in). 14. Lightly oil the seal running area on the spacer. 15. Use a little Silicone around the `O` rings (I know Porsche never did but it will not hurt). 16. Tighten the seal carrier and assemble brakes, making sure that springs are located in the correct positions. 17. Fit Rear Drum and tighten to 350 ft/lbs (we use 400 ft/lbs)18. Fit split pin – If the holes do not line up – Tighten some more – Do NOT back off

[Vic Skirmants]

Item 12; there is no oil dripper in a 356; that's a VW thing.
Note: you are not "pre-loading" the bearing, you need to clamp the plate. The shims take up any excess space to the bearing, so it does not move too much.