fuel pump rebuild

[JamesCrawford]

Is there anything special I should Know about rebuilding a 64 356 C fuel pump. TKS

[Bruce Smith]

James -

I wrote a two part article on fuel pumps for the magazine last year. Here are the links:

http://www.sparkingplugs.com/resources/ ... p+39-2.pdf
http://www.sparkingplugs.com/resources/ ... +pumps.pdf
http://www.sparkingplugs.com/3.html

- Bruce

[John Brooks]

Pretty straight forward, replace the diaphragm and Don't over torque the dome cap bolt when setting the cork gasket, the little fiber gasket will crack.

[Greg Dumond]

Bruce do you have any info/diagrams for rebuilding the earlier A/B pumps?

[Bruce Smith]

Bruce do you have any info/diagrams for rebuilding the earlier A/B pumps?

The articles cover both. Here's also a link to the section in the workshop manual on fuel pumps: http://www.sparkingplugs.com/resources/ ... 3-28RT.pdf

- Bruce

[Greg Dumond]

Bruce do you have any info/diagrams for rebuilding the earlier A/B pumps?

The articles cover both. Here's also a link to the section in the workshop manual on fuel pumps: http://www.sparkingplugs.com/resources/ ... 3-28RT.pdf

- Bruce

Thank you for this Bruce much appreciated!

[Dave Wildrick]

James -

I wrote a two part article on fuel pumps for the magazine last year. Here's are the links:

http://www.sparkingplugs.com/resources/ ... p+39-2.pdf
http://www.sparkingplugs.com/resources/ ... +pumps.pdf
http://www.sparkingplugs.com/3.html

- Bruce

Regarding the C pump, a key item missing from these articles is a method for attaching the circlip that prevents the spring retainer from coming off the shaft when reassembling the pump.
I had 2 of these clips go flying and disappear into unknown reaches of the garage before I managed to get one in place in the groove on the shaft.
The trick is exactly how to keep the spring compressed long enough to slide the circlip into position.
I had another person squeeze the spring while I eventually got the circlip on with a needle-nose pliers, but isn't there an easier, more efficient way?

[Dave Wildrick]

I appear to have suffered a momentary collapse of integrity.
David Jones answered this question a while back, and I forgot.
Here is the link to his solution, although there may be others.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=42243&p=271130#p271016

[Albert Tiedemann]

Bruce do you have any info/diagrams for rebuilding the earlier A/B pumps?

The articles cover both. Here's also a link to the section in the workshop manual on fuel pumps: http://www.sparkingplugs.com/resources/ ... 3-28RT.pdf

- Bruce

I have made a clone of VW328a shown in the link and another tool VW328b not shown therein, a fixture for setting the fuel pump diaphragm at the neutral state when fitting the cover, Prevents wrinkling when installing the cover over the diaphragm promoting longer life.

[Ken Lubke]

James

Make sure that the shaft seal that is supplied with kit is peened into its position so oil won't leak thru weep hole in pump housing. Found out the hard way when I found reminents of old seal still in housing. Make sure it is clean before you replace new one

Kenny
65sc coupe
# 219632

[Steve Watson]

Rebuilding a 56 A pump right now using a Stoddards kit. Anyone else notice that the black rubber gasket that fits under the dome is WAY too thick and WAY too hard? Was the original gasket made out of cork? Pretty sure it was much thinner than the black gasket in the kit. It's so thick and hard that I can't thread in the 6mm bolt that secures the dome to the pump body!

[Martin Benade]

The thicker gasket could be helpful as often the dome is partially deformed from overtighting, such that the bolt is tight before the gasket is under pressure. Can you soften the gasket with heat, and use a longer bolt?

[Bruce Smith]

A M6x12 hex head cap screw should work. If you're not able to pick up threads, they may be stripped. Take a close look. You might be able to solve it with a M6x14.

[Jon Schmid]

Rebuilding a 56 A pump right now using a Stoddards kit. Anyone else notice that the black rubber gasket that fits under the dome is WAY too thick and WAY too hard? Was the original gasket made out of cork? Pretty sure it was much thinner than the black gasket in the kit. It's so thick and hard that I can't thread in the 6mm bolt that secures the dome to the pump body!

X2 on that gasket. I don't know where they got it from but it's too thick, the wrong material, and too small on the OD. I got the correct gasket from Jack Staggs. And also X2 on the dome bolt. If it's not leaking, I wouldn't remove it. Too easy to over tighten and crack and/or deform the dome top, which will virtually guarantee a fuel leak. Good luck.

[Steve Watson]

Thanks all. Going to try using a longer bolt first. If that doesn't work, will have to hunt down a thinner gasket or I guess make my own.