Shock install half done- rear shock bolt stuck

[Jeffrey Leeds]

When the going gets tough, you can't beat heat!

[Harold Singh]

Yes sir!

[Brian R Adams]

Bump:

I have a recalcitrant brake caliper bolt on a '92 Civic needing encouragement. I was about to go get some PB Blaster, after watching a plumber use it on a rusted drain pipe joint which had been bonding since 1949. It took 5 minutes to loosen it up.

Then I saw the list of similar products in this thread, and now I will try the Kroil I have on hand. But I will remark that Kroil is expensive, and the small squeeze tin I have is impractical for applying it in tight or awkward locations.

[David Jones]

Brian, some NAPA stores sell it in spray cans. Amazon does too but the 8 oz cans are cheaper.
http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetr ... B000F09CF4

[Brian R Adams]

Thanks, David. You can buy it in bulk, too, if you have a well-endowed trust fund.

I researched the 50/50 ATF / acetone brew, and discovered using a white mineral spirit (e.g. mineral turpentine, naptha, Ronsonol, etc.) is better than acetone, as the latter doesn't mix well with ATF.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thread ... -Oil/page6

Brian

[Alfred Knittel]

on really tuff stuck nuts I have used the hot wax thing. heat the nut up put wax on the threads. go to town on it

[Dick Weiss]

Another way to get the nut loose from being rusted in position is using a sharp chisle blade parallel to the bolt (or stud) on the flat(s) and a sharp blow w/a hammer--this works every time I've had to do it when an impact wrench couldn't be used.
BTW, using a torch will 'smoke' the shock's rubber bushing.
Also add anti-sieze to the threads--for the next time.

[Greg Spreeman]

Okay, for the rear shocks I got the bottom bolts out but, I can't get the top nuts off. They just spin and the rod inside the shock spins with it. Help!

[Mike Wilson]

Clamp the rod of the shock with a pair of vise grips. Then remove the nut.

Mike

[Greg Spreeman]

Took the brute method. Sawzall.

[Mike Wilson]

Mike

[Al Zim]

Everywhere we are working on a 356 car a spray can of Kroil is within reaching distance. It should not be a surprise to you or anyone else that a 65 years old car is probably worn out! Expect everything to be expensive and difficult to obtain including repairs. Before you purchase your front shock absorbers get a shop manual and purchase from an experienced vendor. zim

[Spencer Harris]

Some years actually had studs instead of bolts.

FYI, from '53 (and likely earlier) the rear shock mount plates with a 12mm stud were separate from the bearing housing (figures 9 & 31, 55 parts manual).
At gearbox no. 5746 H3, the shock mounts using M12 x 80mm bolts were integrated with the bearing housing (figure 9/1, 55 parts manual).

Both the '57 and '60 parts manuals picture the later shock mount/bearing housing - stud version, but I don't find references as to when the change was implemented.

[Larry Brooks]

I use CorrosionX and Kroil most of the time. I also have a can of Liquid Wrench that comes into play on occasion. The thing that used to really irritate me about Kroil is that you ALWAYS run out of the propellent before the can is empty - sometimes WAY before. So I started punching a hole in the cans and draining the residual into a glass jar. Then for things that I could reach I would just use an eyedropper or Q-tip if it was small. This succeeded in keeping my blood pressure in check. After several cans over the years I even called and complained to Kroil and they basically said that it sounded like it was time to go buy another can of Kroil.
That said I must also say the Kroil has freed up three 911 engines over the years. All three (1969 911S, 1970 911S and 1970 911E) had sat for multiple decades and were locked up tight. After putting the engines on a stand I would pull the plugs, put 35ml of Kroil in each cylinder and reinstall the plugs. Then rotate the engine on the stand with one bank down for a day or two and then the other. This will make quite a mess after awhile depending on how many exhaust valves are open on the downward bank with Kroil running out the intake and exhaust ports so have a drip pan in place. I would keep doing this until each engine freed up. The 69S came loose after soaking each side once, the 70E took over a week of rotations and the 70S took several weeks with some heat applied to the cylinders intermittently. When the engines were disassembled it was surprising how well the Kroil had penetrated into all of the rings besides freeing them and the pistons from the cylinder walls.

All three engines were low mileage and in two of them the buyers just replaced the rings, lightly honed the cylinders and ended up with great running engines for very little additional costs. Not sure what the third buyer did but he did turn the 69S into a concour winner in a relatively short time(pix below).

[Mike Wilson]

I bought a one gallon can of Kroil some time ago. Put some in a squirt bottle and refill as needed.

Mike