Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

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Richard Shilling
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Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#1 Post by Richard Shilling » Fri Dec 19, 2014 10:11 pm

Ron leDow posted an early version of the checklist. I wrote this for a club member who had parked a 356 25 years ago so it's pretty comprehensive. Given the knowledge on 356 Talk I'm sure there will be some additions or deletions.

After Storage Check List 18 November, 2014

The following covers what needs to be done to get a safe car on the road after long-term storage. Not following these steps can result in catastrophic failure, immediate high wear or, in the case of brakes and tires, a life-threatening situation.

1. Brakes. Replace the rubber hoses, and the master cylinder. Overhaul or replace the wheel cylinders. Check the metal brake lines for any sign of rust or corrosion and replace as necessary. Replacement of the brake shoes and brake springs is recommended. On classic cars avoid, if possible, turning the brake drums. With the front brake drums off, remove, and check the wheel bearings, and if OK lube the bearings and replace the front wheel seals.

2. Wheels, tires, suspension, steering and battery. Replace the tires including the spare. Replace the shock absorbers. Replace the battery and check connections for corrosion. Check and clean ground cable at the front transmission mount. Lube front end, tie rod ends and torsion bars. Check tie rod end seals for cracks. Assure that fresh grease comes out of joints which means that the grease nipples are free, replace if plugged. Check oil in steering gearbox. Replace the steering damper. Replace the steering coupler. Replace the axle boots.

3. Fuel system. Remove and clean the fuel tank, replace the fuel reserve valve, overhaul the carburetors and fuel pump, Replace all the flexible fuel hoses - tank to tube, in tunnel, fuel line to engine fuel line, behind fan housing. Check the entire throttle linkage for sticking. Replace the throttle return springs on the carbs. Check for full throttle at the carbs when the gas pedal is all the way down.

4. Gearbox. Drain oil and before the gearbox is rotated, look inside for rust with a fiber optic scope, or a mirror. If any rust is evident, remove gearbox, disassemble and remove rust or replace rusted parts.

5. Engine. Best and safest practice is to remove the engine, disassemble, clean replace what’s necessary and re-assemble. Or, if the engine turns easily by hand, remove the spark plugs and spray penetrating oil in the cylinders and rotate the engine once or twice, leave overnight. Replace the fan belt. Then remove strainer plate and strainer, drain the oil and re-fill with fresh oil and ZDDP. Replace the filter and fill oil filter housing with fresh oil. Adjust the valve clearance and replace the valve cover gaskets. Remove the spark plugs and crank until either the oil pressure light goes out or oil pressure is indicated on a gauge. Replace spark plugs with new plugs.

After long-time storage, it is likely that the clutch will not release, the clutch plate being stuck to the flywheel. If this is the case, there are two choices: 1) start the car in 2nd gear and stomp the clutch pedal trying to get the weight of the car to break the clutch disc loose, 2) remove the engine and replace the clutch, at the same time replace the flywheel seal and the front transmission seal.

6. Ignition system. Remove the distributor, remove the point mount plate, check weights, replace springs and lube weight pivots . Install new points, grease rubbing block, replace condenser, distributor cap and rotor. Check timing. Replace spark plugs and spark plug leads. Start with carbs full of gas and attempt to start engine. Shut off immediately if any “funny” noises. It should smoke for 5 minutes or so then the smoke should diminish, if not, or if the smoke gets worse, shut down engine, remove and disassemble.

7. Charging system. If the generator light goes out, check for rising voltage with increasing RPM, stabilizing at 3,000 RPM with an output not greater than 7.2 volts.

8. Other items. If gearshift is sloppy, replace plastic bushings under gearshift lever, replace accelerator cable rubber union by the transmission. Check all lights: high and low beams, turn signals, windshield wipers and horn. Soak the windshield and the rear window checking for water leaks. Check the seals on the windshield wiper pivots, they can leak under the dash. All the rubber may need replacement.

Carefully drive car, check for noises, and leaks. When the engine is hot, after 10 or 15 minutes of running, drain the oil, change the oil and filter. Change again after 500 miles.
Richard Shilling
1965 356C dolphingrey 

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Ron LaDow
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#2 Post by Ron LaDow » Fri Dec 19, 2014 10:44 pm

This should really be a stickee; the question comes up regularly, and it's not a bad list for what you'd check on that 'new' 356 you bought from the guy who had ignored maintenance for a 'just a while'.
Ron LaDow
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John Lindstrom
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#3 Post by John Lindstrom » Sun Aug 12, 2018 10:43 am

Check for rust, especially around the structural areas. Thoroughly clean the area around and under where the battery sits with baking soda ( hopefully the battery was not left in the car) Make sure the additional wire (redundant) for opening front hood has maintained its integrity. Bleed the brakes with brand new brake fluid. Make sure our little rodent friends didn’t eat thru any of the wiring. Lubricate seat belt latch and inspect belt for degradation. Always keep a quality fire extinguisher in car.

Mike Horton
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#4 Post by Mike Horton » Wed May 15, 2019 10:50 am

Substitute 12V for cars so equipped, yes, the devil is in the details,

Thanks, Ron, and Richard!
Mike

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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#5 Post by Rick Johnston » Mon Mar 23, 2020 3:21 pm

this is exactly what I needed, thanks to all!

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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#6 Post by Paul Jorgensen » Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:04 am

Hi John,
What is the additional wire for opening the front hood. If my car does not have it, is it advisable to fit one and how is it done.

Cheers
Paul

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Sebastian Gaeta
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#7 Post by Sebastian Gaeta » Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:12 am

Paul Jorgensen wrote:
Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:04 am
Hi John,
What is the additional wire for opening the front hood. If my car does not have it, is it advisable to fit one and how is it done.

Cheers
Paul
Paul,

Which model do you have? If it's a C then there is no cable; that latch fails to the open position and eliminates the need for the extra cable. Also, Pre A cars did not have one but you can fashion one yourself if that's what you have.
Sebastian Gaeta
www.arbormotion.com

Registry #8339

'65 C coupe
'64 C cab
--------
2005 997 C2 Cab
1967 Karmann Ghia Convertible
1966 Ducati Cafe Racer
1964 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1963 Beetle

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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#8 Post by Paul Jorgensen » Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:04 pm

Hi Sebastian
I do have a 1954 pre A, not sure how old the bonnet latch cable is so may be worth while fitting so any info would be gratefully received.

Cheers
Paul

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Sebastian Gaeta
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#9 Post by Sebastian Gaeta » Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:32 pm

Paul Jorgensen wrote:
Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:04 pm
Hi Sebastian
I do have a 1954 pre A, not sure how old the bonnet latch cable is so may be worth while fitting so any info would be gratefully received.

Cheers
Paul
Click on this link and go to post #38 by the late, great Roy Lock.

viewtopic.php?postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30&t=2309
Sebastian Gaeta
www.arbormotion.com

Registry #8339

'65 C coupe
'64 C cab
--------
2005 997 C2 Cab
1967 Karmann Ghia Convertible
1966 Ducati Cafe Racer
1964 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1963 Beetle

Mike Horton
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#10 Post by Mike Horton » Sun Apr 12, 2020 9:15 pm

Sebastian, forgive me for going off topic for a moment, but you brought up two Icons, in this amazing group of dedicated 356 "fans" (fanatics), the late Roy Lock, and Jim Braezeale, 2 folks who helped so many of us that we should take the opportunity to not only think of them, but to thank all those so dedicated who share their time, and experiences.

I once asked Roy a question on the S90 engine, one of his passions, and was blessed for him to add me to his e-mail contact list. He sent me, among others, many of his epiphanies on that engine, one of which i still have, and appreciate the high standard both Roy, and Jim, have set as examples, to which we all, can aspire...

... through them, and this thread, I've learned yet another great detail, Thanks, all...!
Mike

Mike Horton
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#11 Post by Mike Horton » Sun Apr 12, 2020 9:23 pm

... and Richard Shilling, for this list, and his permission, to re-publish it for the 912 Registry, Thanks, Richard!
Mike

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Sebastian Gaeta
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#12 Post by Sebastian Gaeta » Mon Apr 13, 2020 8:44 am

Mike Horton wrote:
Sun Apr 12, 2020 9:15 pm
I once asked Roy a question on the S90 engine, one of his passions, and was blessed for him to add me to his e-mail contact list. He sent me, among others, many of his epiphanies on that engine, one of which i still have, and appreciate the high standard both Roy, and Jim, have set as examples, to which we all, can aspire...
Roy and I were "internet friends" for many years before I went to SoCal on a business trip. I was there for a week and we met up the night I arrived. I was expecting to hang out with him here and there during my trip but that night he laid out the evening itinerary for the week! It included meeting quite a few of my other CA internet buddies, many great dinners out and, of course, a bunch of Porsche stuff including the original Cars and Coffee in Irvine..

From then on whenever I went to the lit meet etc I stayed at Roy's house and got to know his wife Pat and son Frank very well. Great people and even better hosts. I REALLY miss that man, first class in every way.
Sebastian Gaeta
www.arbormotion.com

Registry #8339

'65 C coupe
'64 C cab
--------
2005 997 C2 Cab
1967 Karmann Ghia Convertible
1966 Ducati Cafe Racer
1964 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1963 Beetle

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Robert Reed
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#13 Post by Robert Reed » Sat Jul 04, 2020 12:41 pm

Mike, would you be so kind as to share the one epiphany that Roy shared with you on the Super 90? You have certainly piqued my interest with that statement.
I can understand if you can’t, I just don’t know how personal it may be to you.
Thanks, Bob

Mike Horton
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Re: Latest Version of the After Storage Check List

#14 Post by Mike Horton » Sun Jul 05, 2020 6:21 pm

Robert, I had acquired a '62 S90 engine, from a wrecked car, and had removed the sump screen, to confirm it had a counterweighted crank. It also had the anodized black heads, so I pulled one, to confirm the valve sizes. I also found it had a set of C Mahle P/C, with the long skirts cut, to clear the counterweights, and 5 or so .25 mm base shims under each cylinder, to prevent interference, between the two mismatched combustion chamber angles. Not needing it right then, I stored it.

When I was added to Roy's list, years later, and when he was researching factory service bulletins, he'd on occasion, send one, which he'd found to pique his interest, as his own '62 S90 engine, was not yet ready for his twin grille roadster, and one day, I received the one on the when new cross drilled counterweighted cranks for the S90, and the engine S/N into which it was incorporated. That was several numbers after my engine, so... what did I really have?

I pulled it out, removed the 200mm S90 flywheel, and found 2 shims, and a 50mm #1 main journal, with the full circle thrust bearing, a standard SC, 912 crank! This gave me the ability for the 912 conversion.

On full disassembly, and inspection, I found 2 ea. 616...00 early B rods, and 2 ea. 616...01 late style rods. The heads had been cut once, correctly, but we're uncracked. The crank was standard, and the stock 102 cam had the common pitting.

My '68 912, with original engine, was getting really tired, so right here in my "lap", was a core solution.

These 50+ YO engines can hold many surprises, and this spare engine, coupled with a set of the "01" late rods, matched, of course, my long hoarded near perfect narrow lobe "102" stock S, S90, SC, 912 cam, fresh resurfaced spherical tappets, the AA 22* 86mm cast iron P/C (Leonard hadn't yet offered his now available 22* Shasta sets), my spare 912 flywheel, C/R set at just under 9:1, fresh valve job, a spare 912 front cover, adapted to accept the Pre-mat centered full flow oil filter, conversion to 12V, my freshened Solexes, 022, and fuel pump, and... that epiphany from Roy, it now has about 1200 mi. on it, running cool, with the cleaned original steel cooler.

This engine, with the S90 heads, does have its torque peak about 300 or so rpm higher than my stock 912 engine. I am in agreement with C.J. on the factory stock cam, as my pick for a street, and cruiser engine, for stock, or big bore 1720, in this type engine.

Thanks, Roy... always helping others, we remember.
Mike

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