how to remove split pin in transmission lock

[WilliamVaughan]

Did you take a photograph of the spring in the shift lever housing that pushes up on the shift lever? This is one of those spring applications where the coils of the spring must not all bunch up when the spring is compressed. I have a vague recollection that the spring under the shift lever is wound in a cone shape so that the coils can not bind up when the lever is pushed down to go under the reverse lock-out.

[C J Murray]

If the shifter worked fine as an assembly before being bolted to the tunnel then don't worry about it. When you had the rod out did you clean out the cup? The plastic bushing at the end of the shifter left residue on the cup of the rod ,that you guys falsely claim can not be removed without removing the split pin, that I re-bushed on 216217 Karmann C coupe. The plastic bush needs to be able to slide up and down in the cup at the end of the rod as the gears are selected and as reverse is engaged. My cup in the rod you guys claim cant be removed as a unit had caked on scuzz that made the plastic bushing stick into place. Get everything out of the cup and use a wire brush bit on a drill or Dremmel for the best results.

[Robert Stonerock]

Problem Resolved with not being able to depress shifter for reverse:

As usual, it's the smallest overlooked or assumed detail that causes a problem. After sleeping and thinking about what could be the issue with the inability to depress the shifter when it was installed back in the car, a removal of the shifter assembly (About the 10th time now!) revealed a slight scale of rust in the metal bowl into which the plastic cup resides. I had wiped it with a cloth and put a light coat of grease on the surface. After cleaning off all the grease and feeling it with my finger, I could feel a little roughness. A polish of the inner surface of the cup on the rod with a rubber wheel (dremel tool), reassemble and like magic, it all works as it was supposed to.

Now, as per all the threads, the shifts feel very similiar to my more modern 911SC gearbox. It is smooth, precise and without all the vagary of the past. Thanks again for all the help. The quick access to so many informed techicians through the internet has been a great help in the recent years as compared to the earlier times where I would go weeks on end trying to find some source to help me over stumbling blocks. That is why it took me 37 years to get it back up and running again. (It doesn't help that I am supposedly OCD to the point of being irrational about not allowing "That is good enough" to find it's way into my projects.)

Dr.Stonerock
Old 222382 1965 C may ride again soon?

[Robert Stonerock]

Cup Removal:

Replacement of the cup itself does not require removal of the shift rod assembly, which resides inside of the tunnel. I will agree with CJ Murray on that. What does require removal of the assembly from the tunnel is replacement of the circumferential front "collar" bushing which goes around the front neck of the shift rod itself.(Part #40 in Classic Parts illustration Guide for 356- Part #695 424 211 01) Many choose to "split" the bushing so it can be installed without the trouble of removing the pin from the lock on the shift rod inside the tunnel and removal of the rear connector. This requires a lot of effort and then one must reassemble and making minor adjustment to the shifter, IF ONE MARKS and REASSEMBLES IT ACCORDINGLY!) If one chooses to split the bushing, it is not a complicated procedure. If you must pay someone to do it, without splitting the bushing, it will cost several hundred dollars in labor to replace a $15 bushing. Being OCD just doesn't allow me to split it, so I have to replace it myself. One reason I have a 356 and an old 911, are that they are mechanical in nature, and a patient person can eventually source the knowledge to fix anything on the car that is purely mechanical in nature.

What a great group of people.

Bob

[Doug McDonnell]

It is amazing how smooth the shifting is when all the bushings are replaced and adjusted properly. Like a hot knife through butter.

[Vic Skirmants]

Note: I have never seen it published anywhere, but the two square bolt receptacles that accept the 6mm bolts for the shift rod guide bushing holder, are not symmetrical.
Be sure to install so the longer side clamps on the lip of the tunnel.
Bob; are you going to have to go in there again to be sure they are positioned correctly?
Just corrected my "5mm" statement; it us a 5mm Allen head wrench.

[Doug McDonnell]

Correct as always. Note the asymmetry

[C J Murray]

What does require removal of the assembly from the tunnel is replacement of the circumferential front "collar" bushing which goes around the front neck of the shift rod itself.

One more time! YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE SPLIT PIN FIRST TO REMOVE THE SHIFT ROD ASSEMBLY! I have done it my way a few times with the last time being a few weeks ago. The coupler at the back of the rod must be removed first as well as the clamp that holds it to the back of the rod. Then pull the rod forward until it starts to jam. If I remember correctly I slipped the bracket with the round bushing forward as I approached the jam point so that the bracket was fully out of the tunnel. I then used not very great of force to drive the rod forward keeping the thinest part of the cast lock receptacle facing the tunnel sheet metal interference point. The sheet metal flexes out of the way without the operation doing any harm. The distance the rod is moved while it is pinched/jammed is pretty short. Use a soft blow hammer so as not to distort the cup at the end of the rod.

Those split pins are tight and rusted into place and driving them out in the car is a PITA.

$200 says I'm right and you can bring your cars to my place and watch, non-believers!

[Trevor Gates]

Note: I have never seen it published anywhere, but the two square bolt receptacles that accept the 5mm bolts for the shift rod guide bushing holder, are not symmetrical.
Be sure to install so the longer side clamps on the lip of the tunnel.
Bob; are you going to have to go in there again to be sure they are positioned correctly?

Jon Bunin posted some pics in this thread.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=44784

[Vic Skirmants]

What does require removal of the assembly from the tunnel is replacement of the circumferential front "collar" bushing which goes around the front neck of the shift rod itself.

One more time! YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE SPLIT PIN FIRST TO REMOVE THE SHIFT ROD ASSEMBLY! I have done it my way a few times with the last time being a few weeks ago. The coupler at the back of the rod must be removed first as well as the clamp that holds it to the back of the rod. Then pull the rod forward until it starts to jam. If I remember correctly I slipped the bracket with the round bushing forward as I approached the jam point so that the bracket was fully out of the tunnel. I then used not very great of force to drive the rod forward keeping the thinest part of the cast lock receptacle facing the tunnel sheet metal interference point. The sheet metal flexes out of the way without the operation doing any harm. The distance the rod is moved while it is pinched/jammed is pretty short. Use a soft blow hammer so as not to distort the cup at the end of the rod.

Those split pins are tight and rusted into place and driving them out in the car is a PITA.

$200 says I'm right and you can bring your cars to my place and watch, non-believers!

Cliffy, I am going to argue all day long with you on this one!

[Mike Wilson]

I've removed a few w/o removing the shift lock collar. Think about it: what would be the easiest way for the factory to install the shift pipe? Assembled with the collar and guide ring already in place.

Mike

[Martin Benade]

I imagine any denting of the floorpan below the shift tube could prevent removal with the lock collar in place. Or a new floor incorrectly installed.

[Mike Wilson]

Good point, Martin.

Mike

[C J Murray]

Cliffy, I am going to argue all day long with you on this one!

I can always use an extra $200. Bring your C coupe to Florida and I will demonstrate the extraction. By the way, I am only going to extract and replace the loosened rod assembly not the rest of the job which is not in dispute. Cash only, and I will be using the counterfeit bill verification marker.

[Mike Wilson]

Cliff: how about posting a video of the process?!

Mike