how to remove split pin in transmission lock
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how to remove split pin in transmission lock
The transmission lock on the shaft itself has a split pin holding it on. I have tried every conceivable technique except drilling it out to get it out. There is nothing rigid to steady or hit against it. I tried threading a sheet metal screw into it, but there is no room to put a gear pull extractor around the lock itself.
Other threads mention "taping " it out. Right!!!! l can't get them out when they are in other sites. On the bench it is one thing. On a piece of metal with no support inside the tunnel it is proving impossible.
I guess, I will have to drill it out.d.
Any suggestions from someone who has done it more than once and has actually done it?
Dr, Bob Stonerock
65 C
Other threads mention "taping " it out. Right!!!! l can't get them out when they are in other sites. On the bench it is one thing. On a piece of metal with no support inside the tunnel it is proving impossible.
I guess, I will have to drill it out.d.
Any suggestions from someone who has done it more than once and has actually done it?
Dr, Bob Stonerock
65 C
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
Call me. 800.356.2964 al zim
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- Vic Skirmants
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
You are not going to drill out that hardened pin. I have never had a problem driving them out with a punch. Support the shift rod against the side of the tunnel opening.
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
Isn't it better to remove the rod from the tunnel? I just replaced all the linkage bushings in a C coupe. You can't replace the round ring bushing without removing the rod. I'm confused.
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
I have never been able to remove the rod with the lock piece attached. You have to slide the rod out of the lock piece to clear the front of the gearshift hole.
Did you beat yours with a hammer?
Did you beat yours with a hammer?
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
Let's keep that to ourselves!
They invented the soft blow hammer for jobs like that. It was not that resistant but i had to find a "sweet spot" position for the bracket and the clock position of the rod. I drove the pin in and out on the bench.
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
Yes remove the lock piece if you want to get the shift rod out as Vic says. If you only want to replace the rod guide do it by cutting the guide at 45 degrees and sliding it around the keeper to install. Personally I like to remove the rod-but I have only done 3.
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1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
Well, I'm confused as I have removed the rod with lock lug attached.
Remove the seats for easier manipulation of the rod with the rear sloppy joint removed.
Heater and e-brake cables disconnected.
Especially, the proliferation of secret old family swear words seem to help.
ZZZ
Norm
Remove the seats for easier manipulation of the rod with the rear sloppy joint removed.
Heater and e-brake cables disconnected.
Especially, the proliferation of secret old family swear words seem to help.
ZZZ
Norm
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
For the good of our community, could you share the secret words?
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
Norm, I think we have some candy-ass mechanics posting here. You don't really have to hit the rod hard, you just tap it as it drags along for maybe 3 inches and then gets loose again. Geez, do these guys drink latte and read philosophy books while they work? That means you Vic!Norm Miller wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2019 3:15 pm Well, I'm confused as I have removed the rod with lock lug attached.
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
If you elect to drive the roll pin out while sprawled in the car, put some penetrating oil on it first. It has been so long ago that I can't remember how I got it apart. I am sure it would help if you backed up the peace-pipe with a block of wood before clobbering the end of the pin with the hammer and 3/16 inch diameter punch. I do remember that the entire assembly went back in with much less effort than I used getting it out.
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
By Jingles, bleep, bleep, bleep, damn.Martin Benade wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2019 4:07 pm For the good of our community, could you share the secret words?
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
I thank everyone for their assistance. Pin finally removed> I soaked it in Penetrating oil for about an hour and tried to tap it out using a wooden block etc. for support. No luck. I started to drill it out and got to where I had a good edge for the punch. It still didn't want to budge. I soaked it overnight in penetrating oil. There was no sign of rust or corrosion, and lots of old grease. It finally came out with a few good taps, but it was not that easy. I cleaned everything up and installed the new shift front guide ring with no problems. That was the easiest part. The order and orienting of the 3 pieces of the shift rod to one another, was critical in being able to get it all back into the tunnel correctly, as it took several attempts at relocating the pieces along the tunnel as I threaded the shift rod back into the tunnel itself. There is so little room for maneuvering the collar with the lock on the rod. I made a 6mm shoulder bolt with a self-locking nut instead of reinserting a split pin when reinstalling the lock collar. I tried it to make sure there was clearance for all shifting movements. It should make removal for bushing replacement in the future much simpler?????
New Problem? I discovered the anterior shift rod guide bushing was bad when I found I could shift into either first or reverse without depressing the shift to engage the lock out. In an earlier forum, Vic had shown me the error of my ways in installing the lock out plate incorrectly. I had already replaced the cup and posterior bushings, but the front shift rod guide appeared intact at the time I was restoring the shift assembly. The anterior rod bushing simply crumbled when put into use after the restoration. Actually the reverse lockout never seemed to fully go into position when installed. I could press down, but never felt like it was moving far enough to the right to fully engage under the lock out bar??? Out of the car, the lever depressed completely and I could maneuver the shift lock-out tab under the lock-out bar without problem. With the shifter group now installed in the car, I can't depress the shift lever at all. I had believed it was because the shift rod was deflecting downward before, but with the new shift rod bushing guide installed it won't depress downward at all. I adjusted the rear connection several times to get the forward gears back to where I believe they are supposed to be. The good news is that the forward shits are all distinct and crisp, just like a new car, but the bad news is that I cannot shift into reverse at all!!!
I have studied the diagram and can't figure out what could be wrong. It works great, out of the car, but when assembled with the cup in the rod assembly, it can't be compressed.
Any ideas on what is wrong??
Bob Stonerock
65 356 C
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New Problem? I discovered the anterior shift rod guide bushing was bad when I found I could shift into either first or reverse without depressing the shift to engage the lock out. In an earlier forum, Vic had shown me the error of my ways in installing the lock out plate incorrectly. I had already replaced the cup and posterior bushings, but the front shift rod guide appeared intact at the time I was restoring the shift assembly. The anterior rod bushing simply crumbled when put into use after the restoration. Actually the reverse lockout never seemed to fully go into position when installed. I could press down, but never felt like it was moving far enough to the right to fully engage under the lock out bar??? Out of the car, the lever depressed completely and I could maneuver the shift lock-out tab under the lock-out bar without problem. With the shifter group now installed in the car, I can't depress the shift lever at all. I had believed it was because the shift rod was deflecting downward before, but with the new shift rod bushing guide installed it won't depress downward at all. I adjusted the rear connection several times to get the forward gears back to where I believe they are supposed to be. The good news is that the forward shits are all distinct and crisp, just like a new car, but the bad news is that I cannot shift into reverse at all!!!
I have studied the diagram and can't figure out what could be wrong. It works great, out of the car, but when assembled with the cup in the rod assembly, it can't be compressed.
Any ideas on what is wrong??
Bob Stonerock
65 356 C
843-952-7811
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
I attached a photo to show that I managed to get it disassembled and it is back together now. I agree with Vic that I can see no way anyone could get the rod assembly out of the tunnel without removing the split pin on the locking collar, as the unit physically cannot emerge through the opening in the tunnel assembled. To do so, would require one large sledge hammer and a completely deformed tunnel opening?
bob stonerock
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Re: how to remove split pin in transmission lock
I usually pay attention to that Vic Guy. He started working on 356s when the Dead Sea was just getting sick.
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