Passenger Floorboard Removal

[Craig Geiger]

Can anyone shed some light on how to remove the passenger floorboard? It's a 63 B T6, I'm assuming these are not the original floorboards (they are supposedly black is my understanding: https://www.stoddard.com/64455106306.html.html ) and perhaps that is the crux of my issue (they don't fit correctly).



If you notice, there's no clearance to move the board up, and there's no clearance to move it down, nor side to side. I checked the manual and there's no mention that I would have to remove the fuel valve/petcock bar just to get the floorboard out.

Any ideas? I could probably replicate this with a new sheet of plywood easily (or get a new pair from Stoddard) should the answer be to scrap these. Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Martin Benade]

If you pull the top towards you it should come out. It’s probably just wedged in

[Mike Wilson]

If it is too tight to the bulkhead, bend back the channel holding the bottom of the pedal board.

Mike

[Jim Clement]

and take the bolt / nut out first..

[Jeffrey Leeds]

Once you pull that board off you will find a lot of space to "store" spare parts you want to carry on board for your drives. Replace that board with one that has a "trap door" that gives you access to the empty space behind it.

I call it the "Smugglers Box" and have the following tucked in there: Generator, Voltage Regulator, Generator Pulley, Fuel pump, Rear Axel Boots (a pair), Distributor, Spare Spark plugs (4), and a set of (shorter) metric wrenches (6 -13mm).

Jeff

[Mike Wilson]

+1 on Jeff's suggestion. I have the smugglers box in my car with lots of spare parts stashed in the void.

Mike

[SPIKE JONES]

It's also a great place to put an electric pump to fill your floats before starting the car, And to put the 6v to 12v converter.

[Wes Bender]

Dig that one out Craig, and then use it as a pattern and make a slightly shorter one. Paint it semi-gloss or flat black. You can add the trap door as others have suggested too if you like. Probably want to do the same with the driver's side (except for the trap door). Thickness is somewhat critical, both to fit in the metal bracket at the bottom and also for the little spring clip that holds the top in place (that is missing on yours).

[Martin Benade]

I think Tom Tate May still have a trapdoor one for sale. I got one, it’s a work of art and not expensive.

[jay darlington]

I have one from Tom also, very nice product
Jay D.

[Don Gale]

It's also a great place to put an electric pump to fill your floats before starting the car, And to put the 6v to 12v converter.

Ditto, that's where I mounted my 6V to 12V converter for my stereo.

[Jeffrey Leeds]

I have one from Tom also, very nice product
Jay D.

He has one left

[Wil Mittelbach]

It's also a great place to put an electric pump to fill your floats before starting the car, And to put the 6v to 12v converter.

As Spike indicated, under floor board also a good space far a 6v low pressure pump for priming dry carbs pre engine start, per my car's below photo.

[Harlan Halsey]

There should be just enough clearance at the top so that you can push the board up and just clear the metal at the bottom. It helps to epoxy the bottom edge of the floor board as dragging the plywood over the metal edge doesn't do it any good. Bending the metal flange at the bottom is unnecessary. So just shorten yours or make new ones, it's easy.

[DonCichocki]

Tom Perazzo, Zalex Industries, one of our vendors, was the original manufacturer of the "trap door" floorboard. I don't see them on his website but if you contact him he may still have some.
http://zalexindustries.com/