flywheel end play

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Jay Darlington
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flywheel end play

#1 Post by Jay Darlington »

as per my older post we torqued my flywheel to only about 270#. so after I get it home I get the flywheel off and the seal pulled out to redo it right. I then reinstall just the flywheel with the shim and check end play again. I've only got a good .0035 or a tight .004, i'm checking with a feeler gauge and a bracket on the engine case and also a magnetic dial gauge it also shows .0035, this is with a .85 shim. I would like to be at .0045 to .0055 to have a safety area. I can get a.80 shim so the difference is going to be .05, which is equal to .00196 thinner. so my current measurement is .0035 + the .00196 = .00546. i'm I on the right track here, do the number look right.
Thanks Jay D.
jay darlington

Dick Weiss
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Re: flywheel end play

#2 Post by Dick Weiss »

Yes; No problem w/.005/.0055+ which is the minimum figure for crank endplay as long as you don't
get a max. of .011".
BTWay, final torque should be 385 ft. lbs.; I do the end-play check (w/o the seal) until it's set.

Jay Darlington
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Re: flywheel end play

#3 Post by Jay Darlington »

so what do you all torque to when your taking a measurement I did about 150# it shouldn't move after that?
Jay D.
jay darlington

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Re: flywheel end play

#4 Post by Dick Weiss »

385.

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Bill Lawless
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Re: flywheel end play

#5 Post by Bill Lawless »

Now to re-Kindle an old END PLAY post:::

I just checked mine, new dowel pin washer, original end play shim I think .90mm.. Dial gauge measure .01mm per tick..
So I want to see .14mm end to end.. (.14mm = .0055in)
My QUESTION: If I put a screwdriver in the cylinder hole and slightly pry the crank in one direction the gauge doesn't move, set to 0. If I pry, very little pressure, in the other direction it will move exactly the .14mm.. But it does NOT stay there, if I remove the pressure from the screwdriver the gauge return to zero.. Is this considered NO end play? Should I push one direction read, push the other read?

What would cause it to spring back??

thanks much,
Bill
Last edited by Bill Lawless on Fri Nov 01, 2019 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
 Thanks,
Bill
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Jay Darlington
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Re: flywheel end play

#6 Post by Jay Darlington »

you push one way and zero your gauge then push the other way and take your reading. on the spring back do you have the seal in?
Jay D.
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C J Murray
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Re: flywheel end play

#7 Post by C J Murray »

Cylinder hole?

If you use a dial indicator at the ring gear on the flywheel and you use a prying device(large screwdriver) even at moderate force there is usually flex that springs back when the force is released. A seal can cause that also and that can give a false reading. The measurement should be made without force applied in either direction, in the two relaxed positions. Another caution... Scat cranks can throw a false measurement because main bearings sometimes need a tiny bit of relieving. The last caution(I think) is that the oil slinger will distort on a Scat crank and may cup and hit the #4 bearing.
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Bill Lawless
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Re: flywheel end play

#8 Post by Bill Lawless »

jay darlington wrote: Fri Nov 01, 2019 5:23 pm you push one way and zero your gauge then push the other way and take your reading. on the spring back do you have the seal in?
Jay D.
No seal..
 Thanks,
Bill
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Bill Lawless
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Re: flywheel end play

#9 Post by Bill Lawless »

C J Murray wrote: Fri Nov 01, 2019 6:39 pm Cylinder hole?

If you use a dial indicator at the ring gear on the flywheel and you use a prying device(large screwdriver) even at moderate force there is usually flex that springs back when the force is released. A seal can cause that also and that can give a false reading. The measurement should be made without force applied in either direction, in the two relaxed positions. Another caution... Scat cranks can throw a false measurement because main bearings sometimes need a tiny bit of relieving. The last caution(I think) is that the oil slinger will distort on a Scat crank and may cup and hit the #4 bearing.
Thanks CJ,
It’s an SC crank in a C.
I’m only using a screwdriver as an easy way to move it back and forth I can move it by hand also But not real easy and it doesn’t stay there.
No seal, maybe my original shim is bent, which would spring it back?
 Thanks,
Bill
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C J Murray
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Re: flywheel end play

#10 Post by C J Murray »

Worn shims often give poor readings. They wear strangely because each side has a very different contact pattern. The size of the flywheel surface is smaller and when flipped can act springy. Sometimes they cup too and become springy. New shims are more stable.
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Re: flywheel end play

#11 Post by Jim Hohensee »

I was doing this measurement years ago and the dial indicator would move back each time I released the pressure. I had applied a fair amount of assembly lube on the thrust surfaces and it was acting like a semi spring. After cleaning it off the gauge reading became much more stable.I would guess that even a coating of oil would interfere with the readings. Lubrication after measuring would be wise. +1 on 385 ft. lbs.

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Re: flywheel end play

#12 Post by Bill Lawless »

Thanks Guys...
I pulled the flywheel and upon close inspection the shim appears to be cupped as CJ mentioned..
Problem now is I don't have a "base line" shim to measure with and go + or - from there..
I guess I can measure with no shim and add in what thickness I need?
 Thanks,
Bill
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Re: flywheel end play

#13 Post by C J Murray »

Measuring with no shim may get a false reading because the main bearings may contact the radius of the crankshaft journals before it gets to the position where all of the gap at the shim location is taken up.

If the crank and flywheel are the ones that were paired with the shim then you could try to measure an unworn portion of the shim and order a new one that size or slightly thinner. You can't measure if there is no free-play! Then using the new shim you can check the clearance undoubtably having to order the "perfect" size.
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Re: flywheel end play

#14 Post by Bill Lawless »

C J Murray wrote: Sun Nov 03, 2019 7:58 am Measuring with no shim may get a false reading because the main bearings may contact the radius of the crankshaft journals before it gets to the position where all of the gap at the shim location is taken up.

If the crank and flywheel are the ones that were paired with the shim then you could try to measure an unworn portion of the shim and order a new one that size or slightly thinner. You can't measure if there is no free-play! Then using the new shim you can check the clearance undoubtably having to order the "perfect" size.

I was thinking the same thing.. I measured the shim at .85mm..
It a bit of guess work, Guess right and I only buy one shim, wrong buy 2
 Thanks,
Bill
65' 356 SC Cab Irish Green :D
82' SC Targa
81 VW Westfalia with 2015 Forester Engine
BMW 64'-R50/2, 75'-BMW R90/6, 74' BMW R90/6, Yamaha BW350

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