white 356 shoud

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Mike Horton
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Re: white 356 shoud

#16 Post by Mike Horton »

Silver?

Will I be branded an "outlaw", for painting my '62 S90 shroud silver?
Mike

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Jim Nelson
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Re: white 356 shoud

#17 Post by Jim Nelson »

19000 mile 1962 Super scanned from a 1976 photo:
4AD798D5-2734-4673-87C4-4417328D4562.jpeg
4AD798D5-2734-4673-87C4-4417328D4562.jpeg (227.19 KiB) Viewed 706 times
1963 S90, unrestored:
E25A7795-1258-4CD2-97B6-98CA06A8B49F.jpeg
E25A7795-1258-4CD2-97B6-98CA06A8B49F.jpeg (671.12 KiB) Viewed 706 times
I always thought they were white, until I was , ahem, put on the true path....

Max Handley
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Re: white 356 shoud

#18 Post by Max Handley »

T5 Super. Silver
 Contact email Spyderwerks@comcast.net

Mike Horton
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Re: white 356 shoud

#19 Post by Mike Horton »

...more slow progress, & waiting for the rest of the tins, in work.jpeg
...more slow progress, & waiting for the rest of the tins, in work.jpeg (961.83 KiB) Viewed 689 times
My '62 S90. in process to be used temporarily in my '68 912, while I go through my original matching engine... then, in a 356 coupe (yes, it has an SC/912 crank, to accommodate either flywheel)

There it is, I've bared to all, the shame,
Mike

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Vic Skirmants
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Re: white 356 shoud

#20 Post by Vic Skirmants »

What are you doing for the rear engine mounts?

Mike Horton
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Re: white 356 shoud

#21 Post by Mike Horton »

Vic, for what was to be a simple top overhaul, it became a little more complicated. I found the standard SC,912 crank already in the engine (stroke of good fortune, for me), and it was attached to the original 200mm S90 flywheel, with 2 shims, for the correct end play. The heads were in excellent shape, and except for the .25mm/.010" cut on the sealing surface, and the aftermarket 40mm intake valves, new bronze short guides, still in limits, and the faded black anodize, only got the valves and seats touched up, lapped, and liquid leak checked. This engine I removed from a '62 rusty coupe, after the PO lost control, and damaged the front left fender, and his insurance co. totaled it.
I found a near new set of stock 82.5mm "C" Mahles with shortened skirts, to clear the CW crank in it, along with 6 or 7 standard .25mm copper base shims. Yes, in the 22* heads. I caught a set of the AA 86mm P/C with cast iron cyls., and their hypereutectic coated pistons, for the 22* through B heads in stock, and bought them. I had to replace the 4 short studs on the front of the case, with the longer ones to attach the 912 third piece, with the otherwise stock '68 rear engine mounts, with the 4 square "rubber baby buggy bumper" blocks. My spare 912 flywheel bolted up and with only one of the 36mm shims, which came with it, gave me the .005" end play. I had a Scat gland bolt, but the flywheel appeared to have been ground, so I ordered the AA version, as it had a thinner head thickness, and the old factory gland bolt, had been shortened, by either a coarse bench grinder wheel, or a rotary sander, coarse, as well. I suspect, there was a clearance issue there, thus, the thinner headed AA part. I also had a 200mm VW clutch plate relined, again, for better clearance, to use for hopefully, the short time it will be in the 912. In this "not long since it was overhauled" per the PO engine, I found 2 … 01 rods, and 2 … 00 rods, so I gathered up all my "orphan" rods, a term borrowed from Tim Berardelli, and spent a cold winter creating a set of … 01 rods which were well within book weight tolerances, for overall, and big end weights, lightly polished the crank journals, removed the drive in cross drilled crank plugs, cleaned the drill passages, and … gingerly tapped the holes, and threaded in the screw in plugs, with Loctite. The "don't try this at home" hint, is that these are Nitrided cranks, and are very hard, at the outer surface, though thin, enough to easily break a tap (I got it out, with a new tap remover, lots of Kano Silikroil, but consider this a miracle gift from God). This is a process likely better left to the Pros in that arena. I also replaced the two lower forward case attach studs, with the longer ones for the 901 transaxle bell housing thickness. I used the S90 air shroud, the one year only '68 dual groove pulley, and the other 912 horizontal related tin pieces. I am completing the large diameter 30A 12V generator inspection, had the fan blades welded, restored the Leitz muffler which came on this engine, blasted to bare steel, and coated with a liquid ZAC cold galvanizing compound, allowed to cure in the Hot TX sun for 24 hrs., applied a second coat, also cured for another 24 hrs., installed Ron's Pre-Mat centered full flow oil filter kit, overhauled my spare starter, my old "C" 022 distributor, used the stock, like new 102 S90 cam, with fresh spherical ground tappets, freshened the engine driven fuel pump, and assembled it with Great care. I'll use the stock closed breather system, from the 912, with the lower round breather outlet for the passenger side head plugged, for now, to mirror the C/SC system. Hence, a "bitsa" engine. All this was done, without modifying any part, so out there in the future, both engines can be returned to "sorta" Normal... the S90, for a B coupe, and the 912 for a … 356D

If I missed anything, ask away, I need all the truly experienced pro help I can get. Oh, I set the C/R at 8.93:1, right at the S90 original 9:1, and with a little margin for the sorry road fuels on the byways today... I am but a somewhat mechanically inclined enthusiast/owner.
Mike

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Tim Herman
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Re: white 356 shoud

#22 Post by Tim Herman »

Silver on T5 B
Tim Herman #2197
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Steve Hatfield
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Re: white 356 shoud

#23 Post by Steve Hatfield »

And also, what about a ‘63 B Super 90. Grey or white(ish)?
Steve Hatfield
Fort Walton Beach, FL
'63 S90 Sunroof Coupe
'06 997S Coupe

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