1956 356 "GT"

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Vic Skirmants
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#31 Post by Vic Skirmants » Wed Jul 17, 2019 8:02 am

Harlan Halsey wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 1:24 am
Check WCSTA-06-56 T1 Post #44 for a picture of how I did it.

Yikes, Vic, I didn't know the Bosch solid state regulator case is hot! That seems crazy to me!
I agree, but that's the way it is; unless they have made a change.

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#32 Post by Trond Vidar » Sat Aug 10, 2019 2:09 pm

Verified that the new relay does not have a positive (hot) chassis anymore, that is rather fine.

The Zeniths were cleaned in ultrasound washer, gasoline, dismantled, blew all passages with air, set float height, set idle mixture but it run way to lean. It does have the correct jets for a S engine. I am still to test ignition at 30-ish degrees but at idle it is spot on.

If it does not run better I'll go back to Webers. The Venturis was rather stuck as well the mixture tubes. Did not measure the Venturis but will check upon dismantling. I will have to get the mixture tubes out and verify there is nothing clogged.

Have no idea when this engine ran well, have spent time on the carbs and ignition. The engine is noisy, I hope it is valve clearance or maybe a lean condition, worst case rod or main?

Youtube link to video running, seems way to lean as it hesitates to return to idle.

12 Volts and a new battery.
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"Economy" fog lights, waiting for chromed KC Hilites, the cheapos go onto the Healey. :shock:
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New classic style switches located in the ashtray opening, fogs, "ignition and electric fuel pump, the pump leaked and its just the filter for now until the new pump arrive.
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Car is an "easy starter" but running way too lean.
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'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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Vic Skirmants
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#33 Post by Vic Skirmants » Sun Aug 11, 2019 8:02 am

"Verified that the new relay does not have a positive (hot) chassis anymore, that is rather fine."

Did you check the outer case with the engine running?

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#34 Post by Trond Vidar » Sun Aug 11, 2019 10:48 am

Hm, don't remember but engine was maybe not running. Will verify after an attempt to dismantle / clean the carb. mixture tubes again.

btw: It's a brand new "Bosch Made in Mexico" regulator.
'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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Vic Skirmants
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#35 Post by Vic Skirmants » Mon Aug 12, 2019 7:55 am

When the engine is not running, the case is not "live" with voltage. It's only live when the generator is charging.

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#36 Post by Trond Vidar » Tue Aug 13, 2019 12:17 pm

Sure, got it! Yes I will check when the engine revs.

Btw: This was a nice surprise, seems like the best way to fix the wipers.
https://www.stoddard.com/64462800100-nla.html.html
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'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#37 Post by Trond Vidar » Wed Aug 14, 2019 3:26 pm

You are right Vic, chassis is HOT as soon as the engine is running, the D+ is attached directly to chassis. Nice to know.

The new 12 V charging system seems good, playing around with lights and flashers etc but the enigne crank and start easy. I installed a WOSP Performance gear reduction starter, had to make a bump in the seat panel to make it fit, its not much just a couple mm deep in a large bump.

Carbs, the mixture tubes were bad, bead blasted them gently and put back. This solved the lean running condition. I adjusted the valves as well, most good but exhaust on 1 and 3 were too tight but maybe not open.

Finally I took the car out for a spin today, 5-6 km`s shakedown, new set of tasks, there are problems to resolve.

* The 60 mm studs I installed for the Technomagnesio rims touch brakeshoes when braking. The head of these were slightly larger than the old ones. The studs are OEM porsche. Grind them sligthly maybe?
* Loose front wheel bearings.
* Sloppy steering box

I have had the car since what, 2011 maybe and the seller had it stored years before that? This is a good day.
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'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#38 Post by Trond Vidar » Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:47 pm

Another 10 km trip today, fixed the brake noise with a thin spacer to "shorten" the brake shoe holding pin. The cup for the brake shoe retaining pin will be changed to the newer version, the originals seem deeper than necessary, its actually the retaining pin cup/clip that get in contact with studs when braking.

Steering box is definitely bad, its wandering and I have to get a rebuilt one and a VW pitman arm or perhaps rebuild the box but are there any sources for parts? (Original 1956 box)

Engine noise is still there and I wont drive it more until I find the source. At least it's not the fan, generator is new and I took off the belt and spun it to verify it is still silent. I'll check the rockers and stands for problems, if they are good the engine will have to go out during winter. Cant think about anything else that could be clunking but rods or mains.

It will be more inspiring to finish interior and electrical work this winter, until yesterday I had not driven the car more than 100 meters. Gearbox was fine, suspension good, brakes have a lot of bite in them and the car will be fine once engine noise and steering is taken care of.

The (old car) driving season usually end mid october over here and I'll spend the time on the '63 coupe. It need be driven more.

15 Aug 2019, more than. 8 years since my first post. Slate gray '56, admit to decal tuning but I want it to look like a classic road racer.
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'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#39 Post by Trond Vidar » Sun Aug 25, 2019 3:30 am

The rockers and stands seem fine and no crack/exhaust leaks that could explain the knock.

I may rather have a '56/57 super engine rebuilt and put in the car. Most of the parts from that engine is cleaned, measured and ready for machining where needed.

In lack of experienced Porsche engine builders I will have to have the case checked by a VW engine builder, there are a few of those over here and they build quality engines.

I measured the crank and bearings with a "quality" digital caliper and somewhat cross checked (not a micrometer) but looks like both rods and main need one under?
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My 56-57 engine has the old cast rocker stands and I will try to get the better stands, they were welded sometime and dont want to use them. The plan is to build a standard spec 75HP. I know the advice is to use later rods and will try to find some.

Pistons and cylinders, I dont know they look fine but one cylinder has rust and I must at minimum source on super cylinder. I have to read up on the cylinders but they should be cross measured and checked for ovality and so on. If I have to buy a new set I may try the kit with JE pistons & biral cylinders.

I hope the small oil pump will be enough for a standard engine but maybe there are updated pump wheels or other upgrades on the market.
'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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Harlan Halsey
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#40 Post by Harlan Halsey » Tue Aug 27, 2019 2:47 am

56s had VW steering boxes with the non-adjustable short tie rod. If yours still does, your local VW source should be able to help you. Any good VW engine builder will have the measurement tools, micrometers, to accurately measure your crank. Wolfsburg West is a source for tie rods, should you decide to make the short one adjustable. VW ball joints have a smaller taper stud than the later Porsche. Porsche, 12mm thread, VW, 10mm, but the tie rod thread is the same. Stoddard is a source for the inner angled ball joint, if your pitman arm accepts Porsche size ball joints.

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#41 Post by Trond Vidar » Thu Sep 12, 2019 4:36 am

Thanks Harlan, I have a variation of tie rods the car came with the fixed short rod with ball joints but the joints were shot. I had to change a steering knuckle as well (bent) and ended up with an assortment of rods to make this work, both Porsche and VW "labeled". Was hoping to buy a redone VW box and source a VW pitman arm.

I set my sights on getting car on the road in the spring 2020 so there's time for fiddling with tie rods and pitman arms. The engine is still undecided but if I am not getting started in the '56/57 enigne I will end up with using the '60 engine with new bearings an the needed machining. Just not a hurry now that the season is closing.

Am also tempted to buy front wheel disc brake kit for it but right now it is being stored away and I'll get my '63 on the lift and service it.

TBC
'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#42 Post by Trond Vidar » Mon Dec 02, 2019 2:42 pm

Engine out yesterday, pallets and the 4 post lift work well for boxer engines.

The engine is not smoking or anything so I hope to reuse the P&C's but worst case scenario I was thinking about the 83.5 mm Biral kit from AA with JE pistons. AA have a cyber monday sale and I was tempted buying a set, if the 60S engine does not need them I have a 56S engine waiting for new P&C's.

Any opinions on the current "status" on these AA kits concerning their quality for a street engine?

Rod bearings from Kolbenschmidt seem to be the standard but I see that they sell both "steel backed mains" and alu mains, any reason not buying Glyco mains? I get Glyco's from Germany for around $350 a set.

I peeked into the exhaust ports and they indicate head refurbishment at least cleanup and regrind valves but most likely change/restore valve guides, I have had luck with K-line inserts in 911 heads and may go that path.

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'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#43 Post by Trond Vidar » Tue Dec 03, 2019 7:08 pm

I started dismantling the engine today and its quite a mixture.

C heads or possibly 912 with cast A rocker stands.
P&C, 86 mm cylinders, NPR maybe? Piston and cylinders seem to have rather little use but one cylinder has pitting(corrosion), likely water damage while stored in the US before I got it.
Connecting rods, early B rods. They seem fine but hard to be 100% sure.
Crank and 3 piece case seem tight no axial play or leaks from front or rear seals.

Based on that soup I feel that I have to swap some parts, at least 616.xx.xxx rods and getting the good rocker stands.

If the cylinders measure within specs I'will have the bad cylinder honed and see if the tolerance is ok, if not its either a set of new P&C or just getting one good 86 mm.

B engine with C heads, does that call for 30 degree valve pocket pistons?

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'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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Vic Skirmants
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#44 Post by Vic Skirmants » Wed Dec 04, 2019 8:46 am

Pushrods appear to be the long aluminum ones; wrong expansion rate for iron cylinders.

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Trond Vidar
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Re: 1956 356 "GT"

#45 Post by Trond Vidar » Wed Dec 04, 2019 10:33 am

Thanks Vic, if I can reuse the P&C's I'll put different pushrods on my shopping list. But what if I got Biral/JE piston set from AA, how does those pushrods go with cast iron sleeve with aluminum fins?
'56A coupe & '63B coupe, ..photos

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