Initial Start Up

[Rick Wall]

Soon I will be starting an engine for the first time since a complete rebuild. It was rebuilt by a 30+ year experience, well respected Porsche/VW rebuilder in the area. All the new parts were lubricated with either assembly lube or oil, except for the new pistons and cylinders. I asked him about the lack of lube on the P/Cs, and he said he builds all his engines this way and has great results. I plan to rotate the engine without the plugs to build oil pressure before the actual start up.

I respect the rebuilder, but question the P/C dry start up and obviously avoid potential damage.

Any pro and con thoughts from the forum experts would be appreciated.

Also, I have read that adding a small amount of 2 cycle oil to the first tank of gas is helpful during initial break in period?

Thanks for your input.

[David Jones]

I always sprayed WD40 on the pistons and rings when assembling them and considered that to be adequate lubrication. As soon as the engine fires up oil is getting splashed over the inside of the cylinders so there is plenty of lubrication once the engine is running. If something is screwed up and the engine does not start and is spun over without lubrication for an extended period of time there would be some question in my mind about the cylinder walls and pistons running dry.

[Geoff Fleming]

This has been debated for a long while. Some builders like to assemble the piston/cylinders dry, as they claim it speeds up and enhances the rings seating with the cylinders. Most folks feel more comfortable with some lubrication on the cylinder walls prior to initial start up. I remember the late, great Harry Pellow, ( a.k.a. The Maestro), mentioning this in one of his books...he preferred the WD 40 on the p/cs.
In order to bring the oil pressure up, just disconnect the ignition wire from the distributor and crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes off, now re-attach the wire and you are safe to fire up.

[David Jones]

I always remove the spark plugs to take the load off the battery and starter motor until I see oil pressure and if the engine has been sitting a while I remove the inlet line from the filter and backfill the pump with a 100 cc marinating syringe that you can buy at Walmart for about 75 cents.

[John Brooks]

On an old engine that has bees setting for years, I turn the engine on its side and put a little marvel mistery oil in the plug hole. Let it stand for 15-20 minutes then do the other side.
Then crank the engine with no plugs and build the oil pressure two or three times. Then install the plugs, static tune and put gas in the float vents with a hypodermic needle. After the gas has a few hours tweet the carbs, check for leaks and fire it up.

I have a test stand so it's pretty easy for me, doing it in the car get another person to crank the motor while you watch.

616 engine test stand

image.jpeg (1.17 MiB) Viewed 1024 times

[Dan Kalinski]

Do what John suggests and you will be fine.

[Paul Lima]

I just finished a new engine, and followed these directions: http://blog.jepistons.com/how-to-break-in-an-enginen and https://www.enginelabs.com/news/dispell ... e-academy/ Oil consumption is much better than 600 miles/quart (since i've only got 600 miles on the engine and the oil level is still at the top).

[Brad Ripley]

should be: http://blog.jepistons.com/how-to-break-in-an-engine you had one too many "n"s in the last word.

[Paul Lima]

Thanks Brad!

[C J Murray]

Two drops of motor oil rubbed into the cylinder wall. One drop rubbed onto the 2 thrust surfaces on the piston. This is almost no lubrication. I believe this is what Cosworth recommended starting many years ago. I have never had a ring seating problem doing this.

[John Hearn]

Pull the ignition hotwire to the coil and spin over the engine to get oil to the places where it should be.
If you spin up the engine with the plugs removed also pull the wire because if you don't you might set the engine on fire.
There will be a lot of inflamable fumes in the air and any spark cuased by the ignition circuit will cause a reaction....
This happened to a good friends car and it ended up being toast.
KTF
John

[Rick Wall]

Thanks everyone for your great advice!

Geoff and David, Since the engine is already assembled, I now plan to spray WD-40 through each spark plug hole at the bottom of the down stroke, to give the P/Cs some lubrication, then spin the engine with plugs out to build initial oil pressure.

I did use a syringe to load oil down the filter inlet line, to backfill the pump per David's comment.

John, nice engine stand! I will preload the carbs, and my son will be here to crank the engine on start up.

Paul, Brad and C.J., thanks for the break-in link, good information.

John, thanks for the safety advice on the spark=fire potential. Too much time and money spent to watch it go up in flames!

BTW, this is the first time this engine, since it was been located thanks to Walt Nolte, is reinstalled in my car since 1969! Back home again.

Thanks again, Rick

[Geoff Fleming]

Sounds like a good plan, Rick. Just remember to hold the throttles open when cranking...makes it easier for the engine to' breathe' while turning.

[Rick Wall]

Thanks Geoff, will do.