Ignition Switch Issues

[Shane Balkowitsch]

Good morning guys, took my car out for a long drive yesterday and ran like a champ. I have a small issue with my ignition switch. It appears that either the bezel is stripped or the threads on the ignition cylinder are worn down and they do not want to hold the ignition in place in the dash.

I ordered a new Bosch ignition from Zim's today and had a couple of questions.

1) What is needed to swap out the ignition, is soldering involved?
2) How do I get the igntion rekeyed to match the rest of my car, or can a regular locksmith do this?
3) If it is my bezel, do anyone have source for another one, I know the ignition from Zim's comes with an aluminum looking one, but I kind of like the look of the stock one.
4) Any words of wisdom or pitfalls I should keep in mind during the ignition swapping process.

One of the grounds came out of its connection in the back of my existing igntion as well while I was trying to tighten it to the dash, I pushed it back into the slot and the car starts with no issues, but this can only be a temporary fix. It is beautiful weather right now and as long as the car starts, I could care less in the meantime, but I want to get this sorted out. Right now I have to reach under the dash and hold the ignition with my hand and then turn the key on the front. I suppose I could look at it on the bright side, this is a new ignition security system to fool any would-be thieves.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Shane

[Vic Skirmants]

There should be a special washer on the switch that has tabs that engage the slots in the switch body. The special washer also has two bent areas that engage the slots in the dash. You are either missing this washer, or it has gotten the bent areas squished, and is no longer capable of engaging the dash slots. This washer fits onto the switch body before installing in the dash. Also, the nut on the switch body may not be adjusted properly.
I'll let those who are more catalog knowledgeable post some pictures of what I'm talking about.

[Barry Brisco]

1) What is needed to swap out the ignition, is soldering involved?

Shane, hopefully Vic has diagnosed the reason why your ignition does not want to stay in place, but if you are missing that washer it is going to be hard to find another one.

This all assumes that your current ignition switch is an "original" type, with bullet connectors. Is that the case? Or does it have screw terminals?

Note that new Bosch ignition switches that fit the 356 have screw terminals. Here is a photo from the Zim's website:


Best regards,

[Shane Balkowitsch]

Dear Vic and Barry, thanks for coming to the help. I have that special washer that sets into the grooves into the dash holding it into place so that does not appear to be the issue. My ignition does not have the screw wire fasterners but bullet tips, so the Bosch may not be the way to go in that case, I would hate to cut them off to adapt it to the Bosch ignition. Remember the electrical wiring and harness is all new for my car. The issue is that the threads on the igntion do not have enough meat on them to grab when you tighen down either the back washer or the front piece to the dash, it gets to a certain point and just gives way, not allowing me to tighten it enough to the dash.

With the bullet type, is soldering required or do they just push in there?

Thanks,
Shane

[Sebastian Gaeta]

Hi Shane,

If you do in fact need a new switch, Chuck Stoddard recently reproduced a switch that is nearly impossible to tell from an original. It has the bullet connectors that you will need and can be purchased through Stoddard Vintage Parts for about $200.

That said, it sounds like you can resolve this problem with the one you have.

If you remove it from the car, put all of the pieces together in their regular sequence and figure out what the problem is by looking at it closely. Perhaps you only need one or two of these parts and not the whole thing.

Don't let anyone tell you they cannot be found, you'd be surprised what is hiding in people's workshop drawers. All you need to do is figure out if you need anything and then ask!

Regards,

[Shane Balkowitsch]

Hi Shane,

If you do in fact need a new switch, Chuck Stoddard recently reproduced a switch that is nearly impossible to tell from an original. It has the bullet connectors that you will need and can be purchased through Stoddard Vintage Parts for about $200.

That said, it sounds like you can resolve this problem with the one you have.

If you remove it from the car, put all of the pieces together in their regular sequence and figure out what the problem is by looking at it closely. Perhaps you only need one or two of these parts and not the whole thing.

Don't let anyone tell you they cannot be found, you'd be surprised what is hiding in people's workshop drawers. All you need to do is figure out if you need anything and then ask!

Regards,

Thanks Sebastian for the help, messed around for abotu 45 minutes with it yesterday and it is definately the threads on the ignition housing that are not holding for some reason, like it is stripped, it can only be tightened so much and then it just falls off. I hate to replace the entire ignition because of the threading, I am going to wait to see what Barry and Vic come back with. I have the little washer that sits behind the dash holding it into those 2 grooves. I have cancelled my Zim's order because they brought to my attention that I probably want to go with the bullet terminals instead and I agree.

Thanks for all your time today guys,
Shane

[Sebastian Gaeta]

Hi Shane,

It didn't sound like Barry or Vic were going any further with this, perhaps I have misread their posts.

If you are convinced it is the threaded part of the switch, then I would try a tap through the dash nut first--it's the least expensive part--and if that doesn't work, try to run a die down the ignition switch thread. Can't hurt.

If not, used original switches are about $100 and the correct repro is about $200.

HTH,

[Shane Balkowitsch]

Hi Shane,

It didn't sound like Barry or Vic were going any further with this, perhaps I have misread their posts.

If you are convinced it is the threaded part of the switch, then I would try a tap through the dash nut first--it's the least expensive part--and if that doesn't work, try to run a die down the ignition switch thread. Can't hurt.

If not, used original switches are about $100 and the correct repro is about $200.

HTH,

Thanks Sebastian, I appreciate your help, we thought of trying to redie the body of the ingnition yesterday but did not have large enough tool. I wonder if it does not make more send to first try a new Bezel and see if that is the culprit and go from there.

Thanks,
Shane

[Shane Balkowitsch]

There should be a special washer on the switch that has tabs that engage the slots in the switch body. The special washer also has two bent areas that engage the slots in the dash. You are either missing this washer, or it has gotten the bent areas squished, and is no longer capable of engaging the dash slots. This washer fits onto the switch body before installing in the dash. Also, the nut on the switch body may not be adjusted properly.
I'll let those who are more catalog knowledgeable post some pictures of what I'm talking about.

Dear Vic, my washer does has some tabs but they are rather worn as well, is there a source for them?

Thanks for all of your help everyone. I tinkered with it again today and the damn threads just do not engage properly at the end when it just starts to tighten, it just gives way, the threads on the ignition are definately not that pronounced,
Thanks,'
Shane

[Sebastian Gaeta]

Shane,

I have a nice spare switch with a key and all of the pieces. I could ship it to you and with those you could solve this issue. From what you find you could decide the best course of action.

I do not want to sell mine, but if you do go the used route I can certainly help you find one.

Let me know and I'll put it in a box tomorrow.

[Shane Balkowitsch]

Shane,

I have a nice spare switch with a key and all of the pieces. I could ship it to you and with those you could solve this issue. From what you find you could decide the best course of action.

I do not want to sell mine, but if you do go the used route I can certainly help you find one.

Let me know and I'll put it in a box tomorrow.

Dear Sebastian, how are you? What a very kind and thoughtful offer. I am trying to decide if it is the Bezel or the threads on the body of the ignition, I have an email into Bill and will see what he thinks, I have now learned about the difference between the bullet type connectors and the screw down type and I am glad you guys pointed me in the right directly, I have the bullets and have no intentions of cutting them off. I am going to troubleshoot it over the next couple of days and I may take you up on your offer, which again is very kind, I truly appreciate it.

Have a great evening,
Shane

[Bill Sargent]

Stoddard/NLA and others can supply a new chrome bezel (the domed part that is on the outside of the dash). I think they are about $30. I have a used one that is somewhat "buggered" on the outside from a turkey trying to remove it, but the threads inside are good. I can send it to you if that would help. Email off line and let me know.

[Shane Balkowitsch]

Norm Miller read the post and is going to come to my aid. I am going to pull the ignition tonight and overnight it down to him, he said he will fix it and send it right back, I wll let you know how we progress. Thanks NORM, the weather is beautiful here and thanks for limiting my down time. The old girl wants to be on the road!

Sincerely,
Shane

PS: I want to say a special thanks to all of your members who have helped me over the years, you know who you are. I got a ton of emails and guys giving me suggestions and offering to send parts and everything, it is no much appreciated, I just hope someday I can repay the favors. So thanks everyone!

[Brad Ripley]

Lock plate is p/n NLA-613-192-01 we have only one piece in stock at the moment. It fits both the original and the replacement switch. This is a round plate and should have come with the Bosch switch you got from Zims.

There is an early 911 lock plate that is square and conveniently locks against the lip of the dash. It's p/n 901-613-108-20, not in stock but can be ordered from Porsche. You can see this lock plate in another post about an ign. switch.

Original bezels do not fit the Bosch replacement switch. You will have to use the aluminum bezel that comes with that switch.

There are no spare keys for the Bosch switch. Your original key will not fit.

The Bosch replacement switch has terminal markings. Wire it up accordingly. If you don't know, go to http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/042003_07.pdf or http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_72552

If you want an original looking switch, we have a reproduction. See http://www.stoddard.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=60465

Don't be tempted to purchase a "used" switch on Ebay. That's why it's for sale!

[Dick Weiss]

Shane,

There shouldn't be any existing wear in the lockplate; I just re-punch the little tabs back out w.a small punch to suit its retainment purpose to the dash.

As far as removing the tumbler to change it for the existing key (to match the door locks?), the tumbler can be redone by a locksmith--or Tony the Key man.
Supply a Porsche keyblank.

Dick