Machine tool comments?

[Ron LaDow]

None of Pre Mat's products are machined here; those jobs are done by those who run CNC machinery and companies.
But I use small lathe and mill for prototypes and the Jet 1024 bought in the '70s is beginning to show its age (as aren't we all?)
I'm looking at a Bolton replacement ( http://boltontool.com/Lathes/metal-lath ... em-cq9332a ) but there are no reviews; anyone have any experience?

[Joris Koning]

Ron,

An alternative. I run a Hardinge and love it. Most modern lathes can not come close to the build quality as seen on older lathes.

Just a thought,

J.

[Brian R Adams]

A good friend here in Reno who is a career full-time machinist for 35+ years just bought himself a Grizzly and absolutely loves it. I can put you in touch with him if you're interested in picking his brain. (Suggest PM unless you trust the topic notification feature.)

Brian

[Brian R Adams]

Ron,

I would Email you, but no "email" button for you.

FWIW I found this somewhat dated, but relevant Machinist's Workshop Magazine forum discussion of a Bolton 12x30 vs Grizzly 12x36 lathe etc. lathe. Some rather pointed comments on the Bolton.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archiv ... 40312.html

[Ron LaDow]

Brian,
You can always reach me through the Pre Mat "contact" tab on the Pre Mat home page:
http://www.precisionmatters.biz/
But the comparison between Bolton and Grizzly confirms what I've found elsewhere; the Bolton price is dirt cheap until you add the stuff included in the Grizzly price.

Joris,
I'm 70; I've turned parts on lathes driven by flat belts with spindles supported by poured babbit bearings with .005" slop in the bearings (say 1961, when I was working at 'the Mill'-Cincinnati Milling Machine), added to any 3-jaw chuck inaccuracy. I was thrilled when I could afford the Jet that actually indicates .0002" TIR with the 4-jaw for which I machined the adapter. It's not the arrow, it's the Indian.
A GOOD Hardinge is a wonderful piece of goods for those needing optical tolerances at a price 'way beyond what I'm looking at by the time I get the stuff I need.
And I'm beginning to imagine NOT having to center the cutting tool every time I change one!
I envy you that machine, but not necessarily finding the options I'm looking for.

[Norm Miller]

Ron,
I have a JET for sale.
Very low time.
However it's in SC so the freight would be a killer.
Norm

[Ron LaDow]

Norm,
Dunno what an SC is, but the machine has to fit in a very limited space. I live in SF; RE is expensive here!

[Brian R Adams]

Ron,

FWIW here's what my friend had to say to me:

I would recommend the 12x36 Grizzly. A little more $ but better quality. He would hate coolant all over the thing so no loss. Also that Bolton has only 1 feed rod which will wear quicker. The Grizzly has one for feed and one for threading. I am super happy with mine and it came with a quick change tool post.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-x-36 ... aign=zPage

Sign up on the pop-up page to save shipping.

[Norm Miller]

Ron,

SC = South Carolina.

Norm

[Ron LaDow]

Ended up buying the Grizzly; am assured I can easily match or better the half-thou tolerance got from my old Jet. It still ain't the arrow, it's the Indian.
I now have a redundant Jet 1024, and under the presumption that no good deed goes unpunished, it is offered for free; BUT you arrange to pick it up or have a drayage firm do so for you at MY convenience.
Norm,
I can't fit a 36" BTC lathe in the space I have, but WIH are you doing with a lathe in NC? I know someone in NC who wants a machine lathe; what are you asking?

[Norm Miller]

Ron,

I'll contact you by phone tomorrow regarding the JET lathe.
It is at my brothers shop in Rock Hill SC.
He passed away last year.
I'll send pics later today

Norm

[Ron LaDow]

Bought the Grizzly tool; it arrived a week or so ago after it went to the drayage firm and they delivered it here.
It is not yet a lathe, nor is it on the stand. Thanks to the machinery rigger ragging on me, I made a very long power pigtail and plugged it in before it landed on the stand where (unstated in the specs) the electrical cabinet is no longer accessible.
It did not work, meaning the spindle and the chuck did not rotate. Nothing I could do made it work. A lathe that does not go round is not a lathe.
Without a lot of detail, I called and suggested to Grizzly that several parties (including their insurance carrier) would not be happy having an amateur machinist poking around in a 220V cabinet with a screw driver; I hired an electrician.
It now looks to be solved (failed thermal protector, replaced free, o'night ship), including removing the cabinet from the back of the lathe to mount on the wall and be serviceable. It's to go onto the stand come Monday, with Sparky fitting the replacement thermal protector thereafter.
It is a stout looking piece of goods and the inspection report says nice things about this particular unit. We'll see if Grizzly is willing to back their words regarding customer service with their wallet. And whether the inspection report is correct (Dick, I was a 'run-off man' at Cinti Mill in the early '60s; you know what that meant regarding the spec sheets and accuracy).
Assuming it is fixed, it represents a drastic improvement in function. I'm sure I'm not alone in arranging the 'hood' skeleton and then pulling the skin over it on a Triumph TR3. Compare that to even the Speedster top-up process; that's the sort of change involved here.

[Phil Planck]

Ron
Thanks for the update. Nothing seems simple anymore. I just got an email pic from a friend turning Chinese 3/8 bolts into oversize 356 door hinge pins on his old lathes. Complained about the diameter variation of the Chinese bolts, some too small for oversize pins. We had many Cinnci and Natco 1500 ton injection machines making interior auto trim back then.

[Ron LaDow]

It does work, and it does the way it is intended once the failed parts are replaced; push this switch, engage the selected speed, push the direction lever down, and it goes round and round. The control cabinet is now wall-mounted, accessible for service and since it's obvious the panel was bought from a supplier other than the lathe mfgr, the (remote) wiring was not difficult; they designed it for easy hook up.
I've made all of two cuts so far, still 'tuning' it (tailstock locking cam, tailstock alignment). Tomorrow, I can do some 'run-off' alignment tests to make sure the tailstock taper (not just the center I use) is concentric with a machined chuck taper and determine other specific dims.
The tailstock is a #3MT, which means I need new arbors for all the tailstock chucks/centers/etc (the Jet was #2MT; I don't trust adapter sleeves for concentricity).
It is stout; buying the 24" (between centers) tool of one designed for 36" means the way webs are far beyond any load you can possibly put on the shorter ways, to the extent that it may be difficult to extract the chips. I'll put up with that.
It also (amazingly) has no travel locks on the cross-slide or the compound rest. WIH goes on there? I can and will disassemble and modify the parts, as I can see a way to drill and tap for some m8 Allen screws, such as used to lock the carriage.
Grizzy assigned (obviously; he was far from enthusiastic) a guy to call me, and he 'explained' that the T&C specifically denied 3rd-party repair charges. In return, I 'explained' that I'd bought a lathe and got a lump of cast iron. He then started telling me how all of them are tested, and I stopped him, telling him that whatever tests mine got didn't make it go round when I received it.
If you look at the Grizzly site, the owner is clearly far more interested in wood-working machines (he's a luthier). I don't mind that, but I think *he's* not minding the store; Pre Mat is not run by someone who is really interested in, oh, machining chess pieces and is selling Porsche parts on the side.
I really have little leverage, so we'll see how it shakes out.

[Norm Miller]

Ron,

Well, that's a fine mess Ollie!

What's to keep the cross feed from chatter or must you preload and back up to your dimension/ cut depth?

Norm