1964 Coupe Project

[Chris Davis]

I've been preparing space, acquiring parts (thanks to many here who have helped with that, although there is still a long way to go), and finally have the car mounted on a rotisserie.

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Which gave me a better look at the underside.

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Which in turn encouraged me to start with the doors.
I've removed window and door latch mechanisms on the passenger side door and have started striping paint. The bottom is actually pretty solid (I don't have a photo handy) but I need to repair the stop mount.

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I'm thinking I will need to cut off this section at the red lines, drill/grind off welds and then repair it... and see what can be done with the metal underneath.

[Phil Planck]

Like this

[Chris Davis]

door stop bracket in place.JPG

Like this

Yes, but I was hoping to avoid removing the hinge plate... I think I would have trouble bucking rivets when it came time to reassemble as the outer door skin behind it is in good shape.

[Phil Planck]

I cheated and used button head bolts

[Chris Davis]

I cheated and used button head boltsinside view - dr stop.JPG

Ah... more than one way to skin that cat!

[David H Grant]

In 2022, I used various techniques to rivet the lower hinges on. Toughest part was positioning them perfectly. Second toughest was keeping them hot. The tow hook rivets were easier.

[Chris Davis]

In 2022, I used various techniques to rivet the lower hinges on. Toughest part was positioning them perfectly. Second toughest was keeping them hot. The tow hook rivets were easier.

I hope to avoid removing that hinge, but good to know there are options.

I switched back to paint and dent removal for now... will start cutting what I have to after I make a little more progress removing dents.

[Justin Rio]

Hey Chris, just read this post. Don't be intimidated to remove that hinge if you have to, its very simple in there. You can reuse the original rivets by simply plug welding the head were it was ground off. I plug welded then followed up with a washer of the right circumference and welded a cosmetic dome over the top of it. Here's a link to the page where I did a similar repair: viewtopic.php?t=54457&start=15

Hope it helps.

Justin

[Chris Davis]

Hey Chris, just read this post. Don't be intimidated to remove that hinge if you have to, its very simple in there. You can reuse the original rivets by simply plug welding the head were it was ground off. I plug welded then followed up with a washer of the right circumference and welded a cosmetic dome over the top of it. Here's a link to the page where I did a similar repair: viewtopic.php?t=54457&start=15

Hope it helps.

Justin

That method sure beats bucking rivets!
Quick slightly off topic question... I really like the trough acid soak you used for the bottom of the doors, but how did you neutralize the acid? I was thinking Acetone, but a trough full gets a little spendy.

[Chris Davis]

Making some progress on the dents, but going slow as I would describe my hammer/dolly/pick/file/shrink skills as more apprentice than journeyman currently. My last jeep restoration was over a decade ago, so like the door, I'm a little rusty.

I did check the hinge alignment and sure enough, we are off a bit. It's not quite as bad as the photo shows as I hadn't trimmed the rod and it pivots up slightly in the lower hinge. If I press down on the end of the rod lightly it comes down to nearly touch the upper hinge.

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I think the lower hinge was displaced a bit when the bump stop base was damaged.

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There are a couple fatigue cracks in the skin by the upper door, but nothing that looks like it would displace the upper hinge by ~1/8 inch.

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Here's a look at the bottom of the door. I'm hoping I can just trim out the rot and stitch back in new metal vs replacing the entire bottom panel, but that might be too optimistic.

[Phil Planck]

Nice progress Chris. That bottom sure looks saveable.with patched in top pieces.

[Justin Rio]

No, its just Muriatic acid AKA pool acid. What makes it so nice is that once it hits water it goes inert. You just have to make sure the parts are thoroughly washed as any acid is left behind it will cause the rust it was there to clean up. Just head down to your local hardware store and you can pick up a two gallon pack for under 20 bucks. It can be captured and used over and over again until it weakens too much to be effective.

Door is looking good.

HTH

Justin

[Chris Davis]

Thanks Phil, I will trim and see how it goes.
Thanks Justin. I will pick up some Muriatic acid... I was going to try Citric as it can be used indoors and I like my heated garage, but Muriatic will get the job done quicker and spring is right around the corner. (Just have to make sure the dog doesn't get interested in it.)
No progress on the car this weekend as I had a Facebook Marketplace opportunity present itself. A gently used 5HP 60 gallon Ingersoll Rand upright compressor came up. Required a five hour round trip, but happy to have this capacity compressor tucked in the back of the garage.

Wiring is underway... it will have to share a circuit with the TIG welder so I need to hunt up a Double Pole, Double Throw switch of some sort that's rated for the amperage.

[Justin Rio]

Yes, you'll only want to use it outdoors for sure as it will fume up your shop and oxidize anything in there it comes into contact with. Don't worry about your doggie, one small nostril full is all that it'll take and he won't want to go near it again. You'll know what I mean. Nice compressor!