Flywheel dilemma

[Robin Robbins]

Yeah, Im pretty interested in how all this comes out too. I did in fact measure with a digital indicator and it varied a bit-.004 to .006 but I thought that was within a reasonable range. Cant say on the shim since it was the one already on the engine and it had been rebuilt at some time.The distributor was installed at that time. To be sure, your points about what would have been the best procedure are true, but that isnt what happened and I have to work with what I have. Anyway, I work on this when I have time, usually on the weekends so I'll pull the seal and shim this weekend and see if anything becomes evident. If there is any useful input on diagnostics under these circumstances, I'd certainly like to hear it. I will keep the forum apprised of my findings, for the benefit of those that come after.

[Robin Robbins]

Update. So, I took the old flywheel seal out (that was fun-I was paranoid about damage to the case but it went ok) and looked at doing some metrics on the crank end play. I understand its supposed to be .14 to .17 mm but my question is, is this with nothing else in the equation-which is to say, if i’m measuring from the crank journal ( that the soft iron gasket fits against ) to the shoulder of the main bearing-I should see that much play? If I see less or more, what does it signify? Am I measuring from the correct points? If there is play, (from these points) do I calculate from the greater or lesser measure? I understand about calculating correct shim thickness but I need to be sure Im starting with the right measurements. As always, thanks for the help.

[David Jones]

Follow the instructions in the factory workshop manual and you cannot go wrong. It is not a complicated or difficult procedure. Get hold of a DTI with a magnetic base for very few $ from Harbor freight. I assemble everything and torque the gland nut down to about 300 # with an old iron gasket and not worry about the difference between that and a new gasket because it is to my mind an inconsequential difference. I aim for 4 to 6 thou end play and even if it is more it is not going to be catastrophic as the wear limit is around 12 thou.

[Robin Robbins]

Thanks for the response. I had done all that before and got a good reading (between .004-.006) off the flywheel. The problem was that with it all torqued down, the engine wouldn’t rotate-so Im working my way back to try to decide if I will have to take the engine apart again and crack the case-so my question is still regarding play in the crankshaft to calculate shim thickness-(see my previous comment/question).

[Robin Robbins]

So, for those who might be interested. I took the flywheel seal off and discovered the previous owner had put 4 shims under it. I dug out my depth micrometer, regular micrometer and digital indicator and remeasured all the appropriate bits according to the shop manual. When I put it all back together again (with the appropriate steps along the way) I found that it turns fine (I torqued it to just under 400 pounds). Im not sure if that was why it wouldnt turn before but it remains that it turns now. Time to put some oil in it and see if I can remember how to get it back in the car.

[Spencer Harris]

Thanks for the update Robin. I've been following this thread with interest and I'm glad it turned out OK

[Bill Sargent]

Robin - I will be in Anchorage from 5 - 8 September visiting Ralfy Quepons. PM me your phone number. Would be nice to stop by and see you and the car.

[Robin Robbins]

pm sent

[Dick Weiss]

If replacing the flywheel is needed, you should check the endplay w/a thin shim (or w/o one) and indicate the endplay; Whatever the max. reading, subtract .005"/.0055" and install a shim to suit. Max. limit=.011".
You may need to do this more than once not exceeding .008" to stay w/in the spec. range of .005"/.008".
And yes, torque the F/wheel bolt to 375/400 ft.lbs. each time to select the proper shim; You don't need to replace the bolt each time! BTW, make sure the hub-face is flat. (use a 1/2" x 1" x 4" machinist stone)

NOTE: The F/wheel's disc-face should be indicated to show run-out not to exceed the spec book's .008";
Better to get the run/out around 1/2 that which lessons clutch "Judder".

[Robin Robbins]

Thanks for the input. The flywheel and clutch are new and it appears I've got it worked out. Now, if I could get my seats to slide properly-but then its always something. Anyway, progress is made and at some point I expect to be on the road.

[Wes Bender]

Clean the tracks well and lightly lubricate them. Make sure they are dead straight and parallel. (now, back to our regular programming.....)