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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 2:08 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:06 pm
Posts: 45
I am still new to the Porsche world with the purchase of my 1964 356SC. I have the original motor and just fired it up yesterday for the first time. Seems to be running well. Before running the motor I cleaned it up so I could see if there are any leaks. I did notice prior to running that one of the pushrod tubes has some collected grim on one end. After running the motor for 20 minutes I did not see any noticeable leakage. I believe the motor had not been run for 2-3 years prior to yesterday.

So here is my question. Do I pull the heads and replace all 8 tube seals? Do I leave well enough alone and do nothing till something develops further? Or do I purchase the expandable tubes and replace all 8 or just the one (could also be done later)? I do not want to run into unwanted issues with removing the heads if not necessary. Also, the motor is out of the car so I can put it on a stand to do the work if needed.

What are your experiences with the expandable tubes pro and con.

Part of me wants to just put it into the car and start driving, but while I am here I want to do what is best for the motor. I do have a lot of experience with other motor types. I do have the factory shop manual and will do the work myself.

Thanks
Scott


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 2:24 pm 
356 Fan
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Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:24 pm
Posts: 6142
Location: 30MI WEST OF PHILA
Do not buy the German made aluminum tubes that claim to be changeable with the engine in the car. They don't work, but they are cheap. :shock: If you buy Rocket Ron's Precision Matters tubes you will have a dent in your wallet but...they actually work! They do install with the engine in the car. You don't have to change them all but I suggest you do.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 3:55 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 4:35 pm
Posts: 679
You can also buy stainless steel original style for around $100.
If you are going to pull the heads to replace them should you chose to go the original route you may as well buy a gasket set and reseal the whole engine since it's out.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 1:07 pm 
356 Fan
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Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:54 am
Posts: 1659
Location: Alpine AZ, Green Valley AZ
+1 on Rocket Ron's (??) Precision Matters' tubes. As CJ says, yes, they are expensive, but they WORK. I would use no other, but then I'm not of the concours persuasion.

Cheers,
Wes

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 12:28 am 
356 Fan

Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:06 pm
Posts: 45
Thanks for all the feedback. Precision Matters tubes sure pass the eye test. Really nice looking pieces. So if these are installed without removing the heads, how do you get the old tubes out?

Since the engine is already out is it that much work to pull the heads? Are they sometimes hard to get off? Should I just leave well enough alone and avoid removing the heads? If this was my MGA, no problem I pull the head, but something tells me I might be opening a can of worms.

This is an outlaw type project, so concourse is not a concern, just want something solid and leak free.

Scott


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 7:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:02 pm
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Location: SE Michigan
"how do you get the old tubes out? "
Squash them with a pair of channel-locks and yank them out.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:44 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 10:19 am
Posts: 45
Ron's tubes instantly cured all my leeks great quality Gordon

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 11:13 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 2:10 pm
Posts: 1615
Location: Houston, TX
Vic Skirmants wrote:
"how do you get the old tubes out? "
Squash them with a pair of channel-locks and yank them out.


Don't forget to remove the pushrods first. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:02 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:06 pm
Posts: 45
Vic, thanks. So it is just like pulling teeth! I just have to remember to do the root canal first and get the push rods out.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 8:23 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 507
Location: London
Isn't anybody inclined just to leave this? It sounds like a tiny leak.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 10:17 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:54 am
Posts: 2452
The tube(s) may be OK, but clean everything as best as possible, then run the engine for awhile and look for any leaks.
The usual leak(s) might be from age-hardened valve cover seal(s); If a cheese-headed screw or 2 holding the vertical & horizontal side plates to the top of the head is loose or missing, the valve cover will get wet.
If the pushrod tube(s) get wet, it's possible that the O-ring(s) on the upper headbolt(s) are age-hardened which can be replaced (1-@ a time) w/o removing the head, but the rocker arm assembly must be removed to get to the headbolt(s).

BTW, if the spring loaded (or other aluminum aftermarket) tubes are used, the air deflector (under the cylinders) wire retaining spring won't fit the larger diameter and the spring must be reshaped to fit the tube.

I've never had any problem w/OEM tubes during my 60+ years of ownership as long as they're not rusty; I refinish them
after checking for leaks--of coarse during a rebuild.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 7:10 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 9:20 am
Posts: 253
Dick Weiss wrote:
I've never had any problem w/OEM tubes during my 60+ years of ownership as long as they're not rusty; I refinish them after checking for leaks--of coarse during a rebuild.


Dick;

How do you refinish your OEM pushrod tubes?

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