Roadstr Ruby Red Full Restoration

[John Brooks]

Freddie

Looking well, you need to join and start a rebuild thread or new topic on the ABCGT forum with more photos... Lots of good stuff there

https://www.abcgt.com/new-forum/forum/m ... n-projects

[Freddie Hernandez]

Hi John, yes I have visited abcgt before. There are some neat projects going on over there. Thanks for the recommendation.

[Tanner Boyes]

That’s some seriously beautiful body work. Perfect gaps and the works! Lovely to behold

Tanner

[Freddie Hernandez]

Thanks Tanner. Lot's of love going into my Roadster.

[Freddie Hernandez]

I first epoxy the bare-metal with two wet coats. Scuff the epoxy well and clean surface. Using the Wurth Multi-Sprayer and SKS undercoating, I spray two wet coats allowing sufficient time to flast between coats. Pre-heating the spray booth at 70 degrees helps the undercoating flash much faster. With the Wurth Multi-Sprayer one can easily fine tune the settings to allow you to set your desired pattern and texture. Having the car on a rotisserrie, makes getting to those hard spots easy.

[Charles H Jacobus]

Love it!

Chuck

[Freddie Hernandez]

With the car now wet sanded in 400/600 grit it's ready for 2 coats of white sealer, 4 coats of Ruby Red, 4 coats of clear using nothing but the best, Glasurit. I decided for a white sealer as it will bring out the Ruby and less of the red. Using a grey sealer would do the opposite. Perhaps this is why one might see a line of cars the same color but different variations in color. I can't emphasize enough good prep work from blocking to taping and finally spraying in perfect temperature and PSI. Here at VSR, we only use Glasurit and so it helps to know your product and it's limitation and or, qualities. Once completed with the paint work, I baked the finish for 45 minutes. Next day starts the process that will give my roadster a show stopper finish. With 4 coats of clear, I know I have enough clear to block down any orange peel or debris in the clear. I first start by using a guide coat on the clear itself. The guide coat continue to give me any low spots in the clear. I block the clear versus hand sanding with no block and simply using your the palm of your hand. I start with 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500. It will 100 hours of blocking and buffing...assuming I do not sand through the clear and onto the base coat...disaster, need to start all over with painting. I use clean water with a small amouth of dish soup which allows the sand paper to flow freely on the panels. I will post the finish product once buffed.