'60 Cab project

[M Penta]

Now that is some great progress, most dirty work done already. Nice to get off to a good start like that!

Could not ask for a better project, nice find.

Those tools look very handy!

[Jim Nelson]

You are making everyone in the East and Midwest who has done a project car very jealous. Good Bones!

Having grown up in Upstate New York, I can fully relate !

[Jim Nelson]

Learn something new every day. The bushing/kingpin replacement process is truly old school.

[Jim Nelson]

So far so good, I think.

This ball of gunk is the steering box and friends.

So we've removed the front suspension and torsion bars, cleaned out all the old grease from the torsion bar tubes and link pins, installed new kingpins and bushings, and painted the whole shebang. So it's on to the tie rods, steering box, etc., then the rear swing arms, torsion bar covers, torsion bars, etc. Here Mike is taking a first cut at getting some of the media out that may have been left over.

We've also taken the hinges off from the lids and made sure that they operate the way they're supposed to; now they're back on the car in primer while we start the "make sure everything fits the way we want it to" process.
Original lid, but it has a ways to go before it's ready for paint:

[Jim Nelson]

There was a bit of a lull during the week of the Lit Show; it was great to see old friends and meet new ones. The car at this point is waiting its turn at a great metal crafter for proper fitting of the doors and lids. Much of what we're doing now is restoring the other bits of the car that needed it (everything!). So there's lots of blasting, painting, assessment of parts (do we replace it--if any doubt, yes). but here are some shots:

just a preliminary fit of the bumpers, nothing tightened down:

A little overspray from a previous paint job cleaned right up:

Our first modification: We chose to go with the later clutch pull than the earlier one, as it supports the cable on both sides. Out with the old:

In with the new:

Blasting: You have to start somewhere.

[Jim Nelson]

Blasting and painting is a blizzard of activity. We're almost ready to send the trans case to the tumbler, and the chrome and black oxide boxes are filling up as well.

Replacing worn parts is part of the process.

[Jim Nelson]

We continue to plug away. The transmission case is now at the tumbler's, the chrome box is at the chrome plater, and the cad/black oxide box is at the fellow who refinishes those. We received a full set of keys (didn't have one initially) and the COA. While we're waiting for the metal shop slot to open, there's still time to see if things fit before seeing it off.
Going over the body to point out areas we want to be made right:

A spot where, if you run your hand over it, isn't quite right:

Fitting some of the things you don't want as a surprise when it comes back from the painter:

Pre-fitting the decos. The originals were not in great shape, so the tedious task of pre-fitting these seemed like a good idea.

We finally got the car on a lift, even though it still has its cart attached. Pleasantly surprised.

Surprised to see the two little metal strips that hold the emblems on, which is a lot handier that trying to get your hand up there with a couple of speed nuts.

[Jim Nelson]

Staying busy, we noticed that there was a bit of the finish on the chrome part of the ignition switch we didn't think was right for the car, so the process of getting the car right got a little interesting.

The first thing to do is get the little retaining ring off the lock assembly.

But as long as we've gone this far, we should see how the other components are faring. Don't want to do a great restoration and not have the car start because we hadn't thought to make sure everything was right. The rest of the switch is swaged together, but Larry has made the tools needed to safely relieve the swaging. It's at this point I realize if I tried this at home, I'd break the Bakelite of the switch if I was doing it myself for the first time. The key is to not touch the Bakelite. When you do get the switch apart, there is a triangular brass piece that is held against the contacts by a small set of springs. The wear occurs at the point where the contact meets the starter position, which is a tungsten piece and very durable. The contact, though, being brass and carrying a good deal of current, gets worn.

Base on the wear, we figured the car didn't have a crazy number of miles on it, a fairly low but ultimately unknown number. Here's the point where most ignition switches get the brass contact rotated, I think, it's the only fix without a new contact plate. But many years ago Larry had some made up, so the switch will be as new when we get the chrome piece back from the plater.

[Jim Nelson]

Back from the tumbler's, and getting packed for the trip to the transmission ace.

And apart comes the steering column. The wheel is off to Koch for refurbishment, and we'll handle the turn signal rebuild and rechrome.

We're taking the column apart for restoration as well. The little bearing at the top of the column doesn't enjoy coming off, but it does sound like a cement mixer, has to be dirt inside it. It's rebuildable.

Here's how far the factory paints the internal column to:

[Greg Bryan]

Jim - thanks for all the detailed pictures of your restoration project. I always have liked the looks of the T5 Cabs - they're a good looking car. Also, appreciate the view of the internals of the ignition switch - I've never disassembled one myself, so the guts are interesting to see.
I have a feeling this car is going to be a beaut when you're done.
Keep the pictures coming - good inspiration!

[M Penta]

Yes, this car looks like it will perfect when done. Really nice progress and really nice work so far.

I like the tumbled trans case. Beats cleaning it on your back with trans still in the car!

[Jim Nelson]

Thanks for the kind words, gents, and I have to say it's a lot easier when it's already apart. We did totally luck out when the PO kept all the fasteners, and everything he took off the car. Lots of things could have gone wrong there.

Here's the little bearing on top of the steering column, taken apart (wondering how many guys do this...):

And the column with assorted parts to it, blasted:

The two top parts to the column have a coat of primer on them from the factory, but not the column. We scribed the column for the lower piece and put some painter's tape on the column to cover where the lower bit is aligned at the factory. Hopefully, the belt and suspenders approach will help when we put it back together.

Some progress on other fronts (though we may redo the generator a lighter cad):

More taking apart action: The steering box doesn't look like it has a lot of miles on it. Much like the ignition switch.

There are a lot of parts to refinish.

At the end of this, I can honestly say there isn't a nut or bolt that hasn't been refinished.

[Jim Nelson]

Somewhere someone is keeping track of these (steering box serial number):

Pre-fitting the top (missing the wood bows, and it hasn't been painted or restored yet:

Getting the steering box back together; new seals, clearances checked, and filled with 90 weight for the weekend to see if there are any leaks before paint:

[Jim Nelson]

Got the cad plating and the black oxide back today.

The black oxide is covered with oil to prevent early rust.

We get to sort it and bag it with their components, so assembly will have more organization than I've usually had in the past.

Mike is reassembling the wiper assembly (it's good to have another one to look at to see how it goes back together):

And Larry is explaining the glamorous job restoring window regulators is to me. Lots of parts that are swaged in; if you have replacements for those, it's good, but first timers (like me, at least for window regulators) will probably want an experienced hand to guide them. As we start:

[M Penta]

I like your organization. I tried, but nearing the end I have one magnetic tray filled with mixed hardware. It takes a lot of extra time to figure out what's what.