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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 2:13 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
Yesterday's victory... got the lower hinge pin out (that's not blood, it's rust that had been coming out from the hinge pin with a weeks worth of soaking in kroil) and the screw for the door stop buffer. Next up is dissecting the door and fitting new door bottoms. More on that next week.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2015 1:36 am 
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Posts: 1999
Location: near Ft Collins
Tag: Official curmudgeon
Looking back I think it was smiling at us. Note the rear view.
Happy being brought to life.

Norm


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 2:27 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
More work on this door, which I believe to be a factory replacement. No numbers stamped on the door, no lead on the edge for finishing, as well as a hole stamped on the door bottom for a vent wing (if needed), however the whole inner structure is from a T1. Next is tacking on the door bottom and test fitting to the car.
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Happy New Year Everyone!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:57 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
Repair of the door continues... I got the existing exterior skin trimmed and a new piece tacked on.

I'm doing this one a little different than the normal way I've seen. Almost all of the repairs I've seen the door is cut midway up to have better access to the panel so the weld joint can be hammer and dollied after to get the best metal finish. The issue I've seen is that access to the inside front of the door is still very difficult, no matter where the cut is. What I choosen to do is attach the lower door bottom with clecos and get that all set for welding in, but not actually weld it in. I've then fit the exterior skin and can slide the door bottom in and out. My plan is to finish welding the exterior skin and since the door bottom is not on yet, I have good access to hammer and dolly the weld. I bought this Martin 155FG hammer which has a curved head and allows me to swing the hammer at the very bottom, including the front of the door. Once the exterior skin is finished welding then I'll attach the door bottom.
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File comment: Lower door bottom repair piece.
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File comment: Line scribed on dykem so I can see it better.
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File comment: Tin snips used to cut.
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File comment: Tin snips used to cut.
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File comment: New pieces fitted in place with heavy duty magnets and clamps.
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File comment: New piece tacked in place with a TIG every 3~4 inches.
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File comment: New piece tacked in place with a TIG every 3~4 inches.
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File comment: Here you can see with the exterior skin tacked on I can still slide out the door bottom out which will give me access to hammer and dolly the weld seam.
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File comment: Here you can see with the exterior skin tacked on I can still slide out the door bottom out which will give me access to hammer and dolly the weld seam.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:37 am 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
I figure a project update is in order. I got both exterior skins welded up and the door bottoms fit to the door. I also had to replace the area underneath the lower hinge as luck would have it, that was rusted out as well. The pictures of the measurements are of three different areas of the door; back. middle and front. Excited to have the doors 95% done.

Hope to see you guys at the Open houses/LitMeet/Swapmeet this weekend, please come up and say hello if you see me.


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File comment: Both exterior skins welded up.
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File comment: Tacks running the entire length, now time to play connect the dots.
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File comment: First few tacks with a TIG in place.
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File comment: 24 1/8 inches, same as the original door and should help maintain the factory panel gap.
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File comment: 25 1/8 inches, same as the original door and should help maintain the factory panel gap.
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File comment: 25 3/4 inches, same as the original door and should help maintain the factory panel gap.
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File comment: Passenger door repair under the lower hinge.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 9:59 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 12:29 pm
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Location: New Mexico
Trevor,
Nice job on those doors. Good to see you making progress.
DG

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 1:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 12:30 am
Posts: 202
Location: salton city
yes trevor good job. love progress. it looks like the winner of wcsta is in good hands

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 14, 2015 12:23 pm
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Hey Trevor--any updates for us?

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2016 3:09 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
Nothing too exciting, just working on fitting my doors. I've been tackling a cloth sunroof project with
Jack Staggs. Those interested can read more about it here: Golde / Webasto - Folding cloth fabric sunroof.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:45 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
Oh man, I can't believe it's been 2 years since I did an update. I've been concentrating on the rear chassis/frame, rear seat and transmission area. These pics are the driver's side chassis repair.


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Last edited by Trevor Gates on Wed Jul 18, 2018 1:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:51 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
Passenger side chassis repair.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:54 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
Chassis spot welded.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 1:01 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
Rear seat area.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 1:02 pm 
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More.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 1:09 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
Getting rid of Swiss cheese in the passenger side rear seat.


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